Tony Brooks

The lever on that one s not really as you described it, but loads f those on Google and as the pipes seem to be a push fit, fairly easy to change. I agree bout it not being shippable, and it sounds like a valve playing up. .

Is it this one? If so, you can strip them but mark the base, middle section and top with witness marks so you pt them back together in the correct orientation, make sure the gasket goes in correctly as well. I cleaned a load of bug out of the valves with a wooden cocktail stick and a kids paintbrush. Did you Google "Kubota lift pump".

Checking that you are aware that if the lift pump lever/plunger is sitting on or near the peak of the eccentric, the priming ever will feel slack. Also when the pump has filled and pressurised the system with fuel the priming lever will go slack BUT as most Betas have a fairly large leak off back to the tank that slackness should go away within a few minutes.

Perhaps you need to look at how and when the batteries will be charged and if they can put back in about 150% of what was taken out since last charged. Solar is very good, but a 40 amp panel will not be much help in charging 5 x 110Ah batteries, supplying lots of power. More lead acid batteries of any type are killed by persistent under charging and over discharging than anything else. Some boaters have been known to destroy a bank within a very few weeks. Study the battery primer pinned in the maintenance Seaton. The inverter cable size is decided upon cable length and the maximum current flow, so a higher output inverter is very likely to require heavier cables.

It may well be acceptable on older boats, but I have a feeling that for the majority of 12/24 volt wiring the ISOs have a maximum single conductor size as 0.30mm. Also, in small CCSA cable sizes the size is reduced to 0.20mm to meet the ISO minimum number of conductors. As an example, what I knew as 14/0.30 cable is now (I think) 20/0.20.

I think that she even described the work as high quality or some such, much the same with her boat, with batteries in odd places and a rudder stock that seems to have been bodged so it fell off. Still, if she is happy.

Don't know who you addressed that to, but this is my point. I think the OP gave us the OD of the insulation in his first post and did not even know about conductor cross-sectional area. As far as regs and currant/volt drop calculations are concerned, it is always CCSA that matters. Unfortunately, even the catalogues refer to mm rather than sq mm of the conductor cross-sectional area.

No need to be sorry, confusing CCSA and total cable cross-sectional area, and more commonly cable diameter, is a very common mistake, hence the content of my first reply. I think that unless the majority of posters make it clear which they are talking about, new posters are likely to perpetuate the confusion.

I do wish people would make it clear what they are talking about, cable cross-sectional area or conductor cross-sectional area.

Are you reading the regs as outside diameter and not conductor cross-sectional area? 25 sq mm CCSA would have an OD of about 16mm

I doubt 50% antifreeze, 25 or 30% more likely. The stronger the antifreeze concentration, the less heat (not temperature) the liquid can carry around the system Typically, the systems use a header tank to both top up and allow for the expansion and contraction f the liquid a st heats and cools, although I have seen some systems that are sealed and using an expansion vessel and filling loop. Boats are one offs with many variations, so I think that you may have to trace your pipes, but a length of 22mm pipe seems very odd to me.

If the OP is correct that the hot take-off is on the skin tank union, then there is a fair bet the "odd" Lister take ff on engine is not there or has been blanked off. Here is another thread discussing it Lister petter lpw3 calorifier fitting: