ChrisPy

the word seems to derive from chaloupe, or shaloup, meaning a small boat. a bermudan sloop is a single masted sailing vessel with a fore and aft rig and no gaff. confusingly the Royal navy had a class of vessel called a bermuda sloop which had 3 masts. there are other types of sloop which may be gaff-rigged. and as noted, a sloop-of-war can be any of a variety of small warships.

nice ...............

I suppose it largely depends on your skill level. I believe B&Q carcasses are among the most robust. If you go that route you can always get bespoke doors made if the available range of doors doesn't appeal.

sealing the cut edges is more important than sealing the faces.

for clarity: the TV consumes 40W of elecrrical power when it is turned on, that is not related to time. if it consumes 40W then at 12V it is drawing a current of 3.3A which again is not related to time. the current drawn from your batteries will be about 4A (allowing for losses) which again is not related to time. the drain on your batteries in one hour will be 4Amp.Hours (Amps x Hours). if you left the TV on for 10 hours the drain would be 40Amp.Hours out of you nominal battery capacity of 550Amp.Hours. hope thast helps explain the different units of measurement.

all boats should have a bow thruster which is the only effective steering mechanism when reversing. should be made a requirement of the BSS for all narrowboats. ................. coat

some of the responses seem to be blinkered, like canals = narrowboat. there are plenty of boats that could cruise the canals (especially the wide canals) and are fit to sail by sea to Spain. A new boat designed for that purpose should be RCD Category B or better.

in the pipeline industry we call it a hot tap. to insert a tee piece would only cost about a million dollars for a 48inch steel line in oil service. let me know if you need contact details. ...................... coat seriously, my advice would be to practice and then just do it, with loads of towels. you may actually be disappointed how little water drains out. if the system is not open to atmosphere it tends to contain itself quite well. so close or plug any vents or pipes which are open to air.

BS EN 10239 Small craft - Liquified petroleum gas (LPG) systems. BES supply copper pipe in Imperial sizes that meets the wall thickness criteria.

wot? better than the canal bed? shoorly knot!

especially with onion marmalade as an accompaniment.

........ only if you are trying to dispose of the pushbike, probably .............. coat

I would buy a foamed sailaway and do the lining myself. In the overall scheme of things the lining is not a large job, is a good opportunity to get your hand in, and allows you to plan where to have joints, provision for bulkheads, conduits, hidden pipes, etc. Less stressful than having to specify all your electrics and plumbing on paper before you have a chance to occupy the boat and imagine how you will use the space. To save on handling I arranged for my supplier (Liverpool) to supply, and leave in the boat, sufficient ply of the correct quality for lining, bulkheads, and ceiling if necessary. Their trade price plus mark-up was no more than me buying direct.

no, nothing like that, but thanks for researching it for me.

I did not say I sent a message about a gas leak.

no. it's a short nipple that externally matches 10mm pipe, has a nib that mates with the compression nut, and internally accommodates 8mm pipe. the only way to fit it is without a copper olive, which is why I believe it is supposed to replace the olive.

I bought the 8mm one, it seems to be the same unit, but has brass adaptors to reduce from 10 to 8.

I am fitting a bubble tester in my new project boat which has a very simple gas system, requiring only 5/16" or 8mm pipe. The Alde tester purchased for 8mm appears to be a standard 10mm unit, using an adaptor to reduce to 8mm. The instructions are dreadful. It appears that a brass insert (supplied) is used to fit onto the 8mm copper pipe, replacing a copper olive in the compression fitting. Am I doing it right? Does anyone have any experience of this? Initial set up shows a gas leak, but I am reticent to tighten the fittings too much until I know I'm doing it right. I have sent a message to Alde Technical Help, but I'm not holding my breath for a meaningful response. After all if they can't write decent instructions, what hope is there of getting an adequate explanation?

many thanks. I hope my examiner is equally well informed when the time comes.

for me it makes sense only if the best practice note is ignored.

BSS seems unclear about the grade of pipe that can be used for the filler and the vent lines. Your interpretation would be useful, if it can be confirmed. Can I ask, where does your interpretation come from?

In the extreme case, imagine a long box of small or zero weight sitting on the water. introduce a significant weight at the centre point. the box will sink into the water equally. now move the weight towards one end. the box will sink at that end and rise out of the water at the other end. In reality the box also has considerable weight, but the concept of a 'fulcrum' is valid. exactly where the fulcrum lies can be found quite easily, for example by using an Excel spreadsheet for weights and another for displacement, then trying to match changes in CoG with changes in CoB. The angle of trim and the depth at any point can easily be determined. I think in most cases the 'fulcrum' hypothesis will be proven.