Staarek

How about fitting the panels across on the roof (the panels are only 600 mm wide). She's a nice boat btw!

Hmm I would be possibly looking into getting around 100w units as Amp to size ratio (approx.550mmx1200mm at 6 amps) is quite good. Also since the voltage is fairly low there is no need for MPPT controller (your cables would have to be thick enough though). If you would manage to fit 4 of these you looking at 24 amps setup which I think is quite alright.

6 monocrystalline panels, capable of producing up to 45A, mounted flat on the roof.

It all depends. In my experience panels are totally essential. My daily usage is between 100-150ah and panels cover it all. Since beginning of March, I switched the engine on only once for 1hr, as we had quite a few cloudy days in a row. We are live-aboard full time, 2 people - fridge (on all the time) tv, webasto, laptops etc. We even run washing machine without switching the engine/generator.

I totally agree. My take is to either go for cheap batteries and then change them every season or very good ones (and expensive) look after them (if you've got means obviously). I personally prefer the second method as I'm not very keen on shifting 300kg+ of batteries out of the boat & bringing 300kg+ in every season.

Yes, I've seen some reports along these lines on London Boaters fb page some time ago. Could be the case.

I agree, but my point is that there is a big raw about smoke from the boats, but it seems that people being mugged on the towpath in the area is not a big deal.

Funny how no one mentions anything about safety in this article. King's Cross must be an area of London (apart from maybe Victoria Pk) with the highest rates of brake-ins into boats, muggings etc. Only last month I heard about 4 different incidents and loads of my boater friends encounter problems in the past but no one seem to care.

http://www.caravantechnology.com/Leisure-Battery-Chargers-C15.aspx I've used both 30 & 60 amp Premium chargers and I was very happy with them. These are also very reasonably priced.

I don't personally think that price of the pump out is that much of an issue. I think it's more to do with availability of PO (there aren't that many comparing to Elsan disposals) I also seen quite a few that were out of order when I needed to use them. I also know of boaters that are being refused the pump out by the workboats as their tanks are too big.

Just to confirm no-load voltage is 14V. Thanks everyone for your contribution.

Leesan makes these: http://www.leesan.com/index.asp?m=3&cat1=66&t=Self+Pump+Out+Kits As some members mentioned, emptying your pump out toilet into most elsan disposals is not allowed.

From what I've heard also the Certificate Pads are not cheap either.

Good point, it was measured on the batteries so the specs possibly say it is more. Yes, I missed that one, I've never checked no load voltage, looking at the specs it should be around 14V. Thanks everyone for your replies!

So does that mean that the charger is capable of charging a battery up to 12.8V?

I was wondering if someone knowledgeable can advise what is a minimum voltage to charge 12V battery? I’ve got 12V charger that produces around 12amps @12.8V. Will that charge a battery at all? Thanks

£35.00 is not bad. It's £50+ in London.

Vetus also do "power assist".

Many thanks BEngo, it all start to make sense. Regarding the circulation pump, I was thinking about using webasto/eber type, would these provide enough flow?

Thanks for your reply b0atman. Will water still boil even if use 1.2kw rad (which is rated output of the boiler) and a lot of piping (30-40m) all together? Also I'm planning to put the header tank in the engine compartment which should help with cooling the water down.

Thank you MoominPapa. Is this sort of thing you've got in mind:

Thanks Pete. Yeah, gravity option seems good as no electrical supply is needed but since I'm putting only one rad I thought that it would be easier to install circulation pump. Also I already have pipe boxing so I can hide the pipes.

Thanks SamKingfisher. The rad is 1.2kw and I'm planning to place the header tank in the engine compartment so 1.2Kw + quite a bit of piping (around 30 m altogether) I'm hoping will be enough for the water not to boil. By saying to put the pump on the cold side, do you mean on the return?

Hi everyone, I’m looking into installing a stove with a back boiler that would serve one radiator located in the bedroom. I was thinking about Aarrow Acorn (1.2kw to water, 3.8kw to room) The Stove would be installed right at end by the stern bulkhead and the cabin is at the other end of the boat (hence the idea of additional rad as the boat is 65’ long) Here’s a crude drawing: Any other aspects I should take into account? Will 15mm piping be sufficient or shall I run it in 22mm and then 15mm to rad’s valves? If I would want to isolate the rad can I still use the stove on its own? Many thanks