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Sea Dog

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Posts posted by Sea Dog

  1. 8 hours ago, booke23 said:

    You’ve basically got three options of expense/performance

    There's a fourth option: the mobile phone WiFi hotspot.

     

    I know that won't be sufficient for many applications, and I fully recognise that MiFi is superior, particularly with an external aerial. However, for casual use such as that stated by the OP, the phone (occasionally in the window) can be the best "bang for buck" solution.

     

    With our 2 phones on separate networks I can't remember when we were last unable to stream TV or tether the laptop or tablet. Might be worth seeing if it will do for you @Pete-T before you go to greater expense.

    • Greenie 2
  2. We have a twin tub like the one above. We use it in the well deck with the drain hose out through the well deck drain hole, solving the only issue with the unpumped drain models. It's lightweight, simple, uses very little power, washes very well, spins to a dryness a country mile beyond an automatic. With drying being the biggest issue with washing aboard (imho), this latter feature is a real plus.

  3. @Lizette you've probably gone above and beyond now in your attempts to revive your gulper and explored all the possible alternative options to no avail.  A new Whale Gulper 220 is a very little over £100 - if you have the cash, now might be the time to splash it.

     

    If you need to mail order, I'd recommend Seamark Nunn - good on both price and service.

  4. 16 minutes ago, dave mackie said:

    There's nothing at the top of the rad, it's a completely sealed unit apart from the two valves at the bottom .

    Hmm, air usually rises in water, so I'm not sure how you'd ever expel all the trapped air to get that rad to be hot all the way to the top. Instead of repairing the pin hole it it (and there may well be more coming along soon if it's been corroding from the inside) why not take the opportunity to replace the old unvented rad with a new one that you can bleed?

    • Greenie 1
  5. 4 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said:

    I once managed to stop the boat long enough near the bottom of a lock on the Shroppie to remove an entire rod, reel and spinning lure from an overhanging tree, sadly it was rusted beyond repair so went in the next bin we found. Someone had obviously got so mad at being snagged they'd just launched the lot at the tree :( 

    Or the tree ate the fisherman... 

    • Haha 2
  6. 22 minutes ago, noddyboater said:

    Would it really though?

    For boaters already based in the area I'm sure it would, but the idea of cruising to Rotherham for your holiday is as alien as the tidal Trent to a lot of other people. 

    Oh I don't know - there are plenty of places little better than Rotherham many folk happily cruise through as part of their narrowboat holiday.

  7. 17 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

    Maybe i could rig up an electric  hedge cutter horizontally about a foot above the roof - one thats 6 feet long or so, automate the process!  Create my own tunnels?!

    Good idea! If you do, can we suggest a few places you may wish to pass on your travels? 

    • Greenie 1
  8. On 05/07/2023 at 16:20, fudd said:

    I have a Victron 50 amp charger that works fine on the landline, but goes straight to float when I switch over to the generator. Any ideas please. 

    I've found Victron support staff to be particularly helpful so, once you've eliminated all the possible ID 10 T errors, try giving them a call or use the appropriate help forum on their website.

  9. 2 hours ago, Rob-M said:

    There were no issues going through Autherley Stop Lock, paddles worked fine at both ends.

    It's the gate at the Shroppie end that's the only issue with Autherley stop lock. It always seems to have something preventing it from opening fully. If only there was someone with a kedge and an interest in canals close by - for example a hire boat company who open and close it regularly to show their hirers how to use a lock perhaps. 

     

  10. 1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

    Why would you ever want to cover a superior 2 pack product designed to last for up to 20 years with a  single pack product that will need replacing every 2 to 3 years?

    One reason might be that, whilst it's great shrugging off diesel and is very resilient to the elements, it doesn't always withstand the scrapes a boat that cruises inevitably gets from locks, dodgy Armco, the Shroppie shelf, etc. I found any scrapes above the waterline went chalky white on Jotamastic 90, so cosmetically there can be issues. However, my bows were as good as the day I did them 2 years on, as was the waterline. It was the underwater damage I'd only spotted when in crystal clear water that caused me concern. Once you have (or consider you might have) underwater scrapes and damage to attend to, it still ought to come out, whether for routine blacking or 2 pack examination, repair and recoat. Some, including me, would not be comfortable not looking at the underwater bits for much beyond 3 years, less if there's a possibility of coating damage. That said, if you're content your 2 pack is in good shape, maybe extended periods between haul outs are fine.

     

    Marina queen's? Definitely. Lightly used boats? Maybe. 

    Well-travelled boats? Maybe not.

     

    You pays yer money as they say.  A tin of SML Ballastic Black is a little under half the price (£40+) of Jotamastic 90 (£80+) so it's a bit cheaper for materials (depending on how many coats) and an easier job if you DIY or cheaper job if you pay someone else to do it.

     

    Anyway, the above is why I've, rightly or wrongly, recently gone back to blacking after trying 2-pack!   ;)

     

     

    • Greenie 1
  11. 4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

    Dont just leave it. with a poor conection and a few amps flowing through it, it could get quite hot, enough to damage the thing

    He's right. Just turn the breaker off so there'll be no current flowing until you are happy you've done it up correctly.

     

    With the breaker off, you can be confident that you won't get any arcing and sparking when you connect it either. Just take care to keep the bare end of the cable away from any metalwork whilst you're poking about. 

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