Serendipity

Or undo the inlet pipe after the fawcet, squeeze the contents of a thick de-scaler in, re-connect, and give a quick burst to move the de-scaler into place. Another quick burst thirty mins later to re-dose with whats left in the pipe.

And something to put it in that will inject it up through the holes

Yes they're clear now, but you are likely to have a build up of large lumps/flakes of scale above the holes stopping the water coming through, particularly as clearing them is going to push the scale back inside the rim, and flushing pushes the debris forward, which is why you have water coming out of the back holes, but not the front. If that's the case, you need something stronger than vinegar or lemon. Bathroom descaler would be my preferred choice as being slightly viscous it will 'stick' when you squirt it up there......

I have this prob - scale blocks the holes and I clear them with a narrow but longish screw. In your case it sounds as if you've poked some of the scale up into the rim, and now the flush has moved the loose bits forward to block the next holes. I would suggest squirting some fairly thick de-scalant back up each of the holes.

As noted in a previous post - drying times and curing times are two completely different things - I personally wouldn't walk or place anything of significant weight on a newly painted surface until at least two-three weeks. Until properly cured the paint will be soft and easily abrade.

I could think of endless sport to be had with one of those

Yes, my insurance quotes "BMC 1500HP" - their mistake not mine! I think the 999 used extensively on Jim Shead's site is simply a placeholder for 'unknown'.

MoonBoats - Well appointed widebeams.

Apologies if you actually answered this one but how the **** do you get straight lines when taping up. I placed little pieces of tape as references every 6 feet or so, which were measured down from the tops, and up from the bottoms of of the cabin side. It is then fairly easy to get a straight line between these by stretching the tape very taut, and laying it down just next to the reference pieces. Lift up the last foot laid down, move along to the next reference point, pull taught and repeat. When I was happy with the line, some more reference pieces were stuck down below the laid down tape, and the whole process repeated for the next line of tape. I believe there is a technique where you can do the whole lot in one go by pulling it taught and letting it snap back, but I couldn't get the hang of it. Obviously it doesn't matter what bits of tape you use fro the reference tape, but the tape proper should be a plastic 3M tape, both to cope with the streching, and to prevent paint creep. Even then I found it needed me to run along the whole length of the edge with my thumb nail to get good adhesion. Hope this helps.

Don't think you can. I used it to install CH in a house a few years back, similar length run to yours through holes drilled in the joists. Even though the holes were generous it took three people to get it through due to the friction. One pulling, one pushing the other end, and one in the middle. Use lots of pipe clips and make sure the end result is panneled in?

Top Tip - Mine always has a little water come back and collect in the centre around the waste after switching off.

I suppose at least it's easy to clean it out!

Whilst breasted up taking on water yesterday, the fellow boater had his hose going into the gas locker. Odd I thought, and as I could see some water coming out of the hose just under the hatch, I told him I thought his hose had come out of the tank opening, although i couldn't imagine why it would be in there. He lifted the hatch revealing a 'gas locker' full of water. I asked where the gas locker was, and he motioned back, and I then asked if it was a usual arrangement. He said it wasn't unusual, but he was careful not to upset anyone as access was so easy. Anyone else come across it?

That's how mine works, and as there are no electrical controls to the burner, I don't think it can be any different. Graham Cutmore will be able to confirm - excellent for parts at very fair prices and will service and calibrate the burner unit by post if required.

Hi Steve, I looked through your site with interest, and I hope it gets good links. One item I disagree with though is to not untie another boat's lines. If I needed to get into a visitor mooring, I'd have no compuction (unless otherwise disadvantaged by local circumstances) sliding an unattended boat along a ring or two to make space, nor if it were done to me . The consideration here is to re-tie the lines in exactly the way they were found.

Good point - I do have that facility and will check it Yes, that was measured with no load - and the battery is very flat in any case I must have missed that, but can now vouch for it - it does seem to have an effect, but not much! Thanks All - Still not started BTW, jumping from another boater had little effect, replacing my battery with his was much better cranking, but just as she eventually wanted to fire I was about to run his battery flat so gave up. I'm getting air in the system methinks.

I bought one of Screwfix £78 generators for the 12V charging aspect, and after four hours it didn't do a lot (I know it should be twelve hours for a full charge, but I expected more than four seconds cranking). A digital meter on the output (whilst clearly not ideal to take a reading from a constantly changing voltage), appears to read between 6 and 8.5 volts - could the supply not be anywhere near 12V, or is it that the reading is completely off the wall due to the effect of the constantly changing voltage? If it really didn't get above 8.5V I wouldn't have thought it would be putting any charge in? Anyone tried to measure one of these please? Off to the boat now to stick a 240V charger on the genny and see where that gets me.

Mine too, on the pipe that emerges at the top, loops and goes back in. It had obviously been a soldered repair in previous ownership, and I tried to apply more solder unsuccessfully as the crack was too large. Dried it out again, and put two coats of Unibond metal repair around it and all has been well for the last three days. By the way, I thought I was always draining down sufficiently by placing a cup under the drain screw and releasing one turn, but clearly completely removing the screw is the way to go.

Thanks Roy - should be down later - had to repair my instant water heater last night which had a burst pipe, even though I thought I'd drained it down.

Thanks David - been quite a thaw here (25 miles to the east) overnight, and I see this morning the forecast temperatures for the next few days have been revised upward so I'll go down in any case early PM.

Cripes - How cold does it have to get for the river to ice over? We were -7C last night, and the frost hasn't lifted all day, so I'm not raising my hopes.

Bummer - I went out in that last year, the noise is fantastic, but we've only just been re-done.

My blacking is staying intact thanks.

I fancy a few days afloat from tomorrow, but don't want to travel all the way over only to find we are iced in. Forecast for the weekend seems a little 'warmer' than the last few days. Cheers