Crow

Well that little lot got a bit over my head,but yes I've a Colchester student and that's where that props going,1/4 inch off to start with and if it comes to it I'll alter the pitch myself, I'll cut them blades down at the hub nearly through straighten them a bit and weld them up I can get all blade angles the same on a jig in lathe,then balance it up on a motorbike wheel balancer,I'm just finishing things off prior to Easter launch (with- bit of luck) I'll let you all know outcome ,if I cant post a good video on this site I'll have to get it on ( you tube,) Right I'm off to fit some 40 MM kingspan around engine bay to help noise transmission in to cabin thanks all nick

Yes Jan ,I might just lower it enough to get 5 knots at 3000 revs ,it'll be as bad on diesel as the outboard petrol I took off if you get anymore good ideas keep them to yourself, ( Joke). All the best for your new seasons cruising ,nick.

I will but There's limit on what I can send on video it's not happy to let me send one

Thanks lads I'm pleased your still on the case,I've got 900 rpm at tickover now It's as low as I can get Same as the book says It same engine as vetus mariniise and call a m3 09. ,reason tickover was 1000 was the rack in the pump was to loose and was hunting real bad at 900 so that's all sorted now, all I can do is try it again then keep grinding prop blades till it comes ok, at least I can wind leg up to do it,

Did you manage to see it mike

Neil when you open the throttle the bow lifts and she pulls like a car from the lights ,I've over a period of time posted photos on this site,look for (peppermint pig). I'll be posting a few more soon

Well if there ever was a thing called narrowboat racing lm up for it ,just keep out the way if you see me trying to go through the glory hole

Yes it's only a little 24 ft springer water bug. 2900 kg Is dia of prop in relation to pitch a workable solution

Well I'll let you know, most my other mods have worked,and like that old hippo it doesn't take any more pressure to fart in water than it does on land,so i don't think that engine will know the difference,it'll be Easter when I finally get it back in water ,when I've done a few snagging jobs and sorted a prop that matches the engine,I recon ive made the swim and keel to good ,and the prop calcs are no where in the Parrish 13x8 is to fast even at 1000 rpm I've no controll over mooring and manovering ,trouble is 8 inch pitch is as low as I can get for a Enfield ,need to try to make up,or get a 13x6. That'll be a challenge on its own

Yes it's far to fast, I had just slipped it for a engine / prop and leak test after a few months alterations on it 13x8 prop is far to big. And they don't make any less pitch for a Enfield than 8

IMG_0704.MOV. This is offending engine I need to silence,

Well if the water gets as high up as the exhaust port I'm well and truly sinking,or have already, z drive to Mitsubshi L3e on a narrowboat is a bit of a one off ,unconventional doesn't mean it's not going to be any good,L3e are normally heat exchanger cooled,with wet exhaust,keeping the exhaust quiet, now a 1000 cc L3e revs to 3000 plus and makes a bloody racket,not like your 2 pot lister plodding at 1200 rpm so it either needs a silencer or a exhaust pipe in the water and let the river do the silencing I've tryed it with a car type silencer and all was well , but wind was blowing fumes back on to rear deck, does this unpuzzle any thing

Well pleased I've got rid of my outboard petrol,it always gave me the Willys on a hot summers day filling the tank,big vapour plumes when filling,and a all metal boat,to cause a spark if anything falls or drops ,sorry for there losses ,at least no one got burnt bit of a lesson learnt

Lads I've a dry exhaust,can I ,or is it acceptable to run a stainless pipe straight down the back of the transom below the water line, as the engine / manifold is 20 inch above waterline there's no chance of water entering engine,nick

Here is video of the pigIMG_0704.MOV

IMG_0704.MOV

Mostly to old peculiar ,but any one who followed my outboard to inboard conversion,never again, i slipped it at burton waters last week for a leak test and trim test,all was well, i recon the 13x8 props no good as it does 3 mph on tickover I've no controll at mooring up etc,I need a bit of a rethink in that department but it steers and generally does as it's told Video is anyhow ,but gives you a bit of idea how it's all fitted in to a little waterbug,well it's about 25 ft now after all the mods,anyway it's back home now to finish off all remaining jobs and with a bit of luck finish it by Easter Sorry I'm struggling to attach anything I'll post it on its own

Thanks for that ,I've made a compound sprocket assembly now ,and have 3 turns ,

Well thanks, I'll have to gear it down more by the sound of it at least 50%.

After much cutting ,bending and making pivot points and linkages from a steering wheel to a Enfield leg I've been defeated ,so am going to fit a sprocket on the wheel with 1/2 pitch chain connected to 3 MM cables and pulleys, when the Enfield leg is in its central position the attached steering bar travels in a arc 5 inch either way of centre , this 5 inch travel is took up with 3/4 turn of steering wheel. 1 and 1/2 turns Lock to lock. Is this to high a gear, should I put a smaller sprocket on the wheel/ helm ,thanks in advance ,nick

Sorry it's a 4 stroke ,key start. And yes £500 to start and it'll make what it makes on the day ,may be leave it a couple of months

I've maybe posted this in the wrong place, if so I'll move it to another section, but what is a good running mercury15 hp big foot outboard worth, all engine no s intact I've removed one from my waterbug and looking to sell it,I don't want to pull anybody's pants down By asking over the odds for it , but I don't want to rob myself either ,it all starts / stop and runs as it should and comes with morse controls and ignition switch assembly, is £1000 to much ,your thoughts please ,prior to me advatising it

All I'm saying about over plating is that all the crap underneath gradually swells and starts to push the patch off making it bulge and rot the inner face of the patch . And if the original metal was thick enough to fillet and plug weld a patch on , it wouldn't have needed a patch to start with ,and I think after Serving. My time as a boilermaker plater , and lloyds coded welder in every method for the last 46 years I could maybe call myself A bit of a authority on it as well . if I had a wooden roof truss full of dry rot I don't think I'd screw a bit of ply all around it ,and it's just the same thing for steel, once the rots in there is only one way to sort it

now ,you've been about long enough to know vetus never made engines, it's a good and easy choice though , as most bits on it are easy to get to ,from my little experience of them the heat exchanger fit ment and rubbers are crap,and the water filler on manifold is as bad Can't comment on the fitting and workings of secondary water pump ,and thats all they did to them, not real promising for The amount of money they are,I bet there are better conversions for less cash

Never a truer word spoken , and it's only 1/2 hr job to change them ,anyway it didn't have fluid filled mounts on a mower or digger engine application and they ran smooth enough,That engine doesn't know it's driving a chiller unit or a space shuttle and it's not going to try to shake its self to bits just because it's in a boat