tonyt40

Do you mean A&C?

Generally to stop the massive amounts of condensation that you get if you don't have them.

In that case get one of these from an electrical wholesaler and put a euro co-ax socket in it. https://www.edwardes.co.uk/en/products/mk-k56423gry-masterseal-plus-1-gang-ip66-euro-format-enclosure-only?utm_medium=google_shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=google_shopping&gclid=CNaUru2o4NECFcWVGwodRvQBQA

You could try one of these. They are available in standard co-ax plug or f connector or with both if you want aerial and satellite connections. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/maxview-single-outdoor-coax-socket-a82fz

I had read it a few days ago as my Bss exam is due. I couldn't believe that it is only "strongly recomended". Any domestic installation where there are conductive parts that could become live under fault conditions (a floating steel can should probably count! Imho) and equipment used outdoors (trailing lead from a generator) or equipment in a kitchen or bathroom and rcd or rcbo should be used. You would think it would be similar to caravans? http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/61/caravans/index.cfm In a house there are not many occasions now when you don't need rcd / rcbo protection.

I am looking at your pictures and am not seeing an RCD in circuit when the supply is fed from the inverter? My understanding is that the 230v system in the boat should be protected by an RCD whatever the power supply.

Correct answer

Obviously not UK based articles. They both go against Dept of Health guidance for Hospitals, Hse guidance and UK law. I would say the the person's making these comments were not carrying the responsibilities of a Duty Holder or Responsible person (Water systems) in a a UK hospital and being held accountable under the corporate manslaughter act should something serious go wrong. In a UK hospital routine monitoring is undertaken and on Detection of Legionella in a water system is a very serious discovery and measures would be put in place immediately. The measures may be dependant on the serogroup of the bacteria. Probably local or system chlorination and drinking water from bottles. Showers could be used but would be fitted with a wras approved point of use filter and similar on taps. Loads of flushing a resampling. The document we work to is Htm 04 and will soon become part 4 of HSG274. The info from 2003 not wrong but is a little outdated now being about 14yrs old. Views have changed and new documents written.

The only place that would fit your requirements in Yorkshire is Lemonroyd as far as I know. The rest are generally boat yards with moorings unless you joined a club like South Pennine boat club. http://www.southpennineboatclub.co.uk/content/home-page I think they have facilities.

Try this. 4 way. It says it will handle 10amps so should be OK for Led spots. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4CH-Channel-200M-Wireless-Remote-Control-Relay-Switch-Transceiver-Receiver-/131730091890?hash=item1eabb9af72:g:SzIAAOSwFNZWxEu0

You state that showers pose no real risk. Wasn't the 1976 outbreak that named Legionaries disease due to shower heads? Whilst a shower head may not directly generate small enough droplets directly, the spray hitting any hard surface can. You also state that we are at more risk from cooling towers. You have to weigh up how many of us ever get anywhere near a cooling tower (they are very few these days) against how many of us could come into contact with a contaminated shower? Cooling towers would cause an outbreak, a shower will cause maybe a single case After speaking to an environmental microbiologist today that has acted as an expert witness in cases of fatality from legionnaires disease, both in this country (called by the Hse as an investigator) and abroad (Government of Cyprus) , he would concur that showers are a very real risk. This takes up right back to. Post no. 1

There are loads. ECDC, CDC, WHO, Dept of Health, Health and Safety Exec, Public Health England, virtually every countries public health sites. Dig into the detail on ECDC - contracted from compost in Scotland, public fountains, showers, hot tubs.

Anything producing a water mist or droplets increase the risk. The US don't routinely screen for Legionnaires disease. Most is reported as community acquired Pneumonia. Keep reading

I had posted some advice on Facebook explaining that after sterilising the tank is should be neutralised with sodium thiosulphate (few quid from ebay) prior to flushing out as we do on commercial systems.

Found this we back. Worth a refresh?

I was looking for a boat a few years ago. Found boat, survey booked, ready to pay the deposit and sign the British Marine Federation standard contract. I asked the broker if the seller had signed. "Not yet but I will make sure he does" was the reply. Brakes firmly on. I receive a call the next day to say seller thought it too onerous and refused to sign. My only bit of protection buying through the broker gone. The broker suggested we continue without the contract. Not likely I thought. The contract protected my deposit if something nasty appeared at the survey. Was the seller hiding something? Survey cancelled and walked away. I end up buying a different boat at twice the price from a bloke at the side of the canal in cash two years later. All the paperwork was present with receipts from when it was originally built including a photographic history of the build and video of the launch. It just felt right.

I got this. It's been fine. Listed as ex demo as mine was. When it arrived it was in a sealed box. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Waeco-Perfectcharge-12-Volt-50-Amp-Battery-Charger-MCA1250-Narrowboat-Caravan-/282274699661?hash=item41b8e2198d:g:FN4AAOSw8d9U0Ks0

Tired fuse?

According to the calculation it's only just at 3‰ at 95a. At 50a ( only expecting it to be about 30a unless I take to showering in the dark with all the lights on inside and out and charging everything I own simultaneously ) it's about 1.5%. I think it will be fine at that. There is no point over engineering it for the sake of it in my opinion.

Chargers are solar 30a and mains 50a. Total domestic load is about 80a but this was before lights were changed to led with everything on and no diversity allowed. I based the calculation on 50a at 3‰ volt drop I checked some cable tables and 25mm2 fitted the bill. It's currently on a run of about 3m fed from 10mm (not my wiring)!!

I'm going to take a pair of 25mm2 cables from the battery isolator via a 125a fuse to the electric cupboard (about 2m). Think I will then fit a secondary accessible isolator for the domestic that I can actually get to but loop off the battery side to two fuses to connect the solar and mains chargers - that way I can isolate the domestic when I leave it but leave the chargers on. The inverter is on a dedicated supply from the batteries via its own isolator and fuse If I fit an isolator in the solar it will be between the controller and the panels (as per domestic systems) but will look at this later. Thanks guys. Just need the cable and crimps to arrive now.

I have been racking my brains over this for a while. I have a semi traditional with the domestic batteries in two banks of three in the engine compartment. I am just in the process of trying to tidy it up. The question is do I need to take the cabling for the solar and mains chargers independently back to the batteries or can I parallel them up and run one larger pair of cable back from the cupboard where the chargers live to the batteries. Another question related to charging. If my solar is generating and my mains charger is on will they compete with each other? Does the mains charger see the bulk charge from. The solar and go straight to float or vice versa? I was thinking of installing an isolator on the panel side of the solar so when the mains is charging it can do it's job properly and go through all the stages. Thanks

That's more like it. Does anybody know how to connect it? I assume it would go between the live feed to the timer and switch wire?

Yikes... £85. I was thinking more of a £10 job from RS. Is there a combined thermostat / timer that can be set low or if not can I intercept the switch wire from the timer to the heater and fit something in there?

Hi. My boat has a webasto heater controlled by the digital timer. We don't live on board so at this time of year there are times when it will get very cold. I was looking at fitting a frost station to it to protect the domestic water services from freezing. Has anybody done this? I am sure it will be quite simple but just not quite sure of the wiring. Thanks Tony