gbclive

Thanks Nigel, I’ve decided to keep things simple and revert to two rings of 3/8 or 10mm packing, renewing them as required. You mentioned woven packing rings, but looking at the Walkers website, I was a bit overwhelmed by the huge and varied range on offer. After some further googling, I believe Graphite is best avoided as It may cause galvanic corrosion? So that seems to leave PTFE, glass fibre, cotton or flax for the basic thread. And then a choice of PTFE, or PTFE and mineral oil for the lubrication. Any thoughts on what would be best, or indeed which, if any, to avoid. Sorry if I’m over thinking this?

Update: By following BEngo’s advice carefully, the dismantling was straight forward once the ram was persuaded downwards a few more mm by reappropriating my bamboo fuel measuring stick? It turned out that the hyd seal has been supplemented by a single ring of packing above it. As previously mentioned, a mod prior to my ownership has restricted the number of rings of packing that can be fitted whilst still leaving enough thread for the gland to engage with the pump body. Visually, there seems to be significant wear to the chromed ram, with two distinct areas seen. The coarser lower 1/3 being swept by just by the lower lip of the hyd seal and the more polished upper 2/3 swept by ether both seals or just the packing. Surprisingly, the deepest measurable wear depth is just below the top line at about 0.1mm (0.2 off the diameter) compared to the nominal 44mm diameter just above this line. The wear is somewhat less in the lowest segments, so it seems that the lip of the hyd seal has caused the most scratching and the packing has caused the highest wear. Of course, this ignores the depth of the scratches and lateral forces from the pump rod. Three slight ridges can be felt; however the wear has not exceeded the thickness of the chrome plating. If necessary, I’m now happy to service the pump each year, so I’m considering ditching the hyd. seal and reverting to the previous option of two packing rings. I’d be grateful for any suggestions or observations; however I would prefer to avoid an alternative type of pump. Thanks.

Probably my favourite YouTube channel of all time? There seems to be a consensus that he has a very good knowledge across many engineering disciplines. (And a very broad vocabulary!)

Thanks again, you have certainly given me some ideas to think about. Incidentally, when I googled Graco here in the UK I initially found a company that manufactures baby strollers? Persevering I found https://www.graco.com/gb/en.html - I’m guessing that’s the company you are referring to? My spare seals are on the boat - I’ll take a closer look at them on my next visit, perhaps next week.

Thanks for the suggestion - definitely thinking outside the box? Unfortunately, my practical skills would probably stretched a tad too far. Once I manage to get the pump dismantled I’ll have a better idea of the problem. I guess It’s possible that the chrome plating may have played a part in the deterioration? I’ll update the post with what I find.

The satellite detail as you zoom in is useful, but I find it’s missing a lot of the WaterNav functions For instance: it lacks the easy distance measuring (to see how long that walk is to the pub?). As you say, It think it needs WiFi or data for some functions, were as WaterNav was designed to work fully off line. You can’t add your own notes. I find some of the fonts too small and cluttered to read easily. I’ve been using it just recently but I don’t find it as useful as WaterNav was before it’s meltdown. But to be fair, it is free and it still works with IOS 13?

Funny you should ask - finally some progress today? I never did get the promised call back from Paul Nixon , but it turns out that he was the wrong person anyway! (It’s possible that he is dealing with the Android version). Alexander is now the go-to person at RCR, specifically for the Apple version of WaterNav. She explained that the update to IOS V13 totally broke the Apple version of the app and a complete redesign is necessary. The intent is to complete this work in time for next season, so spring 2020. In the mean time, Alex suggested that if I had access to an Android device, I could download for free the beta version. I made a few suggestions: ▪️Ability to transfer personal notes etc from the old version to the new. ▪️Communicate the situation to existing users. ▪️Monitor and acknowledge feedback from users, as I had never received any and indeed AFAIK none of my feedback was ever implemented (including such things such as a Lock that was missing?). I got a sense that the IT dept at RCR is fully stretched at the moment, as their website is also needing an upgrade and there is a problem with their email system, which might explain my experience of not receiving any replies. However today’s conversation gave me some hope that given adequate resourcing, there is someone there with the intent to publish a new IOS version. I’ll seek updates from time to time over the winter and will report back on progress.

Thanks, that’s very helpful to know. I guess it ties in with the advise from the respected Kelvin engineer who did the work a few years ago, to squirt a little oil around the piston before each use. I have done that, but as the leak rate increased, I would think it got flushed out rather quickly. I’ll do some detective work.

Ta. That makes good sense .

As always, thank you Nigel for the detailed instructions. I will sit down and transfer them to a sketched diagram as my mind works best with pictures and that should highlight any confusion on my part? Hope to escape back to the boat next week for a few days?

The gland of my J2 water pump has for some reason previously been modified, resulting in insufficient space to fit enough packing. This, combined with a worn piston, had resulted in excess leakage. So a few years ago the piston was turned down to remove the wear groove, then chrome plated back to the correct size and a hydraulic seal used in place of packing. Initially this worked quite well, but over the last 1000 hours or so of use, the leakage has gradually returned. So now It’s time for me to replace the hydraulic seal in the hope that it and not chromed piston degradation is causing the excessive leakage? I’m not an engineer, so I’d be very grateful for any advise on extracting the piston from the cylinder to enable inspection and replacement of the hydraulic seal, of which I have several spares. My best guess is to wind the locking nut fully down, then screw the pump rod lower end into the upper end as far as it will go, in the hope that this is enough for the piston to clear the gland. If not, then I guess I’ll need to remove the top bearing bolts. Any advise, including potential pitfalls, hints and tips would be much appreciated. In particular, is it safe to rely on the top bearing to resist the torque when dealing with the lock nut? Thanks.

A short interim update - after about 3 weeks, RCR have finally arranged for the current person responsible for WaterNav to phone me back next Monday. Watch this space, but suggest you don’t hold your breath? (Unfortunately, this is not the original developer).

For the same reason they happen on a Friday evening? Sorry, that’s not helpful is it? Good luck though.

Thanks Arthur - I did speak to their boss lady earlier this year to point out that after reporting many errors and offering suggestions to improve the app. I had not received a single reply or acknowledgement. Further, not one of the errors had subsequently been corrected. At the end of the call I was left with a distinct feeling that I had been weeing into the wind? So I’m not holding out much hope, but would love to be proved wrong.

Thanks for that WJM. A full on day today, so I did not get a chance to contact RCR, but I will........... promise?

Thanks for the info WotEver - of course I still have the problem using 13.1.2☹️

Thanks Peter - useful to know It’s not just me?

I know, “keep it simple stupid”. My head is hung in shame☹️ Thanks Arthur, I’m a tad worried that all my notes and logbook entry’s will disappear if I try that? I have restarted the iPad and shutdown, then reopened the apps, but no change.

I appreciate these maps were taken over by RCR a while back. I’ve just noticed they are not working properly after updating the IOS on my iPad. I’ll contact RCR tomorrow, but in the meantime, has anyone else had a similar problem recently? For me, the data such as POI’s, bridges and locks etc are visible, but without the map - just displayed on a blank background. The apps are still referred to on the RCR website but following the relevant link to the App Store displays the following pop up: “This app is not available in your country or region” (So I’ve got a bad feeling about this☹️)

I tried to explain this point really carefully way back in #31. As you know, he has been been asked many times, but there seems to be some sort of block on the specific point of supplying a voltage reading during startup. It’s as if the OP thinks he understands perfectly that this is not the problem, so ignores it repeatedly, thus preventing it being eliminated as a possible issue? The solar factor has further complicated this. Of course I may well be speaking out my rear end (but in this case perhaps not?)

Can I just chip in here?? Tony and others need you to give a voltage reading specifically taken during the start cycle whilst the plug is energised, so as to see the worst case including voltage drop due the high current (amps) being drawn. This is his exact request: Incidentally, is yours a marine version or one originally designed for use in cars and lorries? They each have different voltage envelopes unless modified.

I forgot to add that with help from several of the Honda generator service videos, I’ve just replaced the carburettor on a very old Kipor Generator that we inherited with the boat and kept for emergency only use. It ran very poorly and leaked petrol, so totally unusable. Cleaning jets etc seemed like a lot of faffing about, so £42 inc vat delivered in 2 days for a new carburettor complete with stepper motor and new fuel lines and thanks to YouTube, the newley acquired confidence to have a go. Once the new carb primed, it started easily and now runs beautifully with no leaks? Tank and carburettor now drained and genny stowed away, hopefully to remain forever dormant?

Ditto - diagnosed then changed the water solenoid valve in our 15 year old home washing machine, with the help of a couple of YouTube videos)? About £50 delivered but delayed cost of a new machine (and contributing to landfill with at least some parts of it).

I believe this short 1952 Shell film was only uploaded to YouTube this summer. At 15:23 there is a familiar looking injector pump. (I know - I should get out more!?)