swift1894

Is that to give an equalising charge? Any idea why even though I'm starting to recharge at 10.5 v the charger isn't going into BULK mode, it's starting with ABSORPTION?

Hmm. Don't think so (Mastervolt 12/80) unless I alter the micro switches (dip switches) If I switch the "Diode compensation" that adds 0.6v. The "Gel compensation" adds 0.55v during float Looks like batteries 2 & 3 are knackered but 1 & 4 seem OK

Do they prise off? There are no circular, individual cell covers. I'd have to take off the whole top in one piece, if that's possible Just started charging. It was only reading 10.8 before I started. Immediate reading was 14.5v 11.2 A but now after only 5 minutes it's 14.58 and 2.4 A (absorption)

OK. I charged up my 4 x 220 Ah Elecsols (sealed) yesterday, disconnected the terminals and took readings at 4.00pm 13.03, 12.99, 12.58, 13.03. This morning 8.00am (16 hours later) the readings had changed to 12.91, 12.56, 12.09!!! 12.95. So it looks like number 2 is on it's way out and number 3 is knackered. I thought I'd give number 3 a charge all on it's own with my 80 Amp 3 stage charger to see if it could be revitalised. Any advice/warnings?

Thanks for that info. Yes it does seem contradictory because there's no air flow to the inside as both elements are water cooled. There are no air vents like other gennies have when the alternator is air cooled.

It's a Mastervolt Whisper 6000 (3000rpm / 6k) Engine and 240v alternator have separate keel cooled heat exchanging circuits. Mitsubishi 2 cylinder L2E engine with own water pump. Drive belt is fine. Not fully loaded and run without load for a few minutes before switch off. Hmm We've been bleeding it everytime before using it and without the cocoon it's been OK. There's been no air coming out when bleeding the system so I hope that's not the problem.

My genny has started to boil over through the header tank, but only when I switch it off! It runs OK. I took the cocoon off to try to reduce the temperature, and it doesn't boil over anymore. Obviously though I want to run it with the cocoon on to keep the noise down. Any ideas as to what's causing this problem?

So is it good practice to run an engine at fast speed IMMEDIATELY from starting, to get it up to temperature before engaging gear? Or is that a bit of a shock to a cold engine? So what would be a good warmup speed for a Gardner 4LW for example?

Thanks Gibbo That puts my mind at ease

I wired the alternator straight to the house batteries and all seems OK. I got 14.4 volts once the engine fired up. But I guess I should have some kind of diode in the cable because I'm getting 12.8 volts at the alternator terminals coming from the batteries when the engine isn't running.

Thanks very much for your help. The fan belt just runs the alternator. I just thought if I wired it directly to the batteries it might not work without the relay or damage itself. But the relay might have just been for the Mastervolt splitter. Maybe I'll risk it if you think it should be OK. I can measure the voltage coming off it when I fire up

I'm setting off today so I'll just take the fanbelt off the alternator, unless someone thinks it's OK to run the cables straight off the alternator to the batteries

RLWP, on 24 June 2012 - 06:38 PM, said: I'm a bit puzzled by the question. Our alternator has no connections direct to the batteries The negative is the main negative cable, the positive goes to the positive on the starter motor Richard The more I read the Smartguage advice the more I realise my charging system needs re-designing. I had a Mastervolt Batterymate 1602 that was splitting the charge to my 220Ah starter/880Ah house batteries. The splitter recently gave up the ghost and looking at the size of relay that the supplier of the 160Amp Leece Neville alternator sold me, compared with the one on the Smartguage site I think that may be why. So I've taken the the Batterymate and relay out. I WAS going to wire the alternator + and - poles DIRECTLY to the House battery + and - posts (and charge the starter battery when I run my genny) until I re-assess the situation and get the necessary Smartguage gear!!!!!! Is somebody going to tell me DOOOOOON'T connect the batteries to the alternator like that because it will kill the alternator or something along those lines?

Anymore advice before I temporarily wire up and set off in the morning?

Phew! Thanks for the advice. I'll connect them temporarily and sort out correct wiring as soon as I get the cable.

Thanks Gibbo....will do! But not possible at mo.(haven't got enough cable). Will it do any harm to leave alternator disconnected now while I cruise and charge batteries with genny at night? They're sealed Elecsols btw. And seem to be losing their charge very quickly recently, so I'm charging and discharging down to 12.24v (50% state of charge)several times to see if they can be revived. Had open cell Elecsols before and they lasted about 7 years but these are only three and a half years old. I know Elecsols have been admired/slagged off ad infinitum on this forum. Hope these will stay the course

I've just rewired my 4 x 220Ah batteries so that the Positive and Negative cables from the charger are now diagonally opposite. Positive to battery 1 and negative to battery 4. They were both at the same end before (till I read the advice on this forum ) Just wanted to check if it would be OK if the feed from the alternator was the other way around ie still diagonally opposite but positive to battery 4 and negative to battery 1. It would be easier to do it that way and obviously the alternator isn't running when the charger is plugged in ........but?

Ah Hah! Think I've found it (Section 3.1.1 Victron booklet) 12.65v+ = 0% discharged (100% charged?) 12.45v = 25% " " ( 75% " " ) 12.24v = 50% " " ( 50% " " ) 12.06 = 75% " " ( 25% " " ) 11.89 = 100% " " ( 0% " " ) The bit in brackets is my own assumption. Am I right?

sooooooooooooooo! What's confusing me is that sometimes we are talking about percentage charge/discharge and in another section the actual voltage reading of batteries. 12.8 volts =100% charge etc Is there a table showing when 50% charge equals a certain voltage? The Smartguage site advises that "Discharging deep cycle batteries to 50% results in the most economical use of the batteries in terms of battery life and monetary outlay." So what does 50% discharge translate into voltage? Or am I being naive?

Excellent. just ordered a copy. I'm reading through on line too..............but that's going to take a while. I've learned a lot from this forum already so could someone tell me the generally accepted charging regime for cruising? I've got all the mod cons aboard but run my 6 Kva genny when watching TV, running washing machine etc. I've got 880Ah 12v battery bank, 2k inverter & 80 amp 3 stage charger. But I've seen somewhere on the forum that running genny for 2 hours daily and 8 hours once a week(?) is the best way to keep batteries in tip top condition. Is this true/ can some one tell me where the info is on the forum so you don't have to repeat it all? Brilliant forum I've spent hours ploughing through all the topics in the last week. Wish I'd known about it years ago

Hmm Conflicting opinions! Dare I mention that my + and - cables both come off at the same end of my 4 x 220Ah Elecsols!!!! Looks like they should come off at opposite ends from what I have recently read. Is it really that important? (before I rectify that situation)

Arghhh! Just spent the last the last half hour drying all the joints :banghead:

That's VERY interesting. I've always applied vaseline on every surface as per advice on http://www.tb-training.co.uk/MarineE04.html "Always coat the battery post and ALL terminal surfaces with petroleum jelly or special battery terminal jelly – it prevents acid fumes causing corrosion." I'm going to dry every surface and follow Bizzard's advice because I can see the logic.

At what temperature does battery acid freeze? I assume it's somewhat lower than zero degrees as I don't ever remember anyone ever having had this problem.

If 1 battery in a bank of 4, dies does it drag power from the other 3 and damage them? ie is it best to disconnect it and just use 3?