scuttlebut

Having recently come through Barrowford locks I can understand the CRT warning of posssible dewatering overnight , I would guess that dewatering is not merely possible, but very likely -- many of the gates were leaking so badly that it was either a very slow process to persuade the chamber to fill due to the bottom gates seeming to let almost as much water out as was being let in from the top paddles, or there was a noticeable danger of the front or rear decks being flooded as the boat went up / down once below the cill level. Closed gates will only conserve water if they don't leak ! We all know that CRT are short of funds and staff, but asking boaters to conserve water when their own maintenance is so sadly lacking is rather like rubbing salt in a wound !

We have had internet grocery orders delivered to various marinas / boatyards in the past but recently tried to place an order with Tescos for delivery to a boatyard (which they have delivered to in the past )--- we got the usual "This is a business address so we can't deliver" - the previous procedure was to phone the customer helpline and they could "unblock" that address and sort out the delivery no problem. We now understand that "due to an update" Tescos are unable to unblock that, or any other boatyard address for deliveries - -- Computer say NO ! -- they say they are "working to resolve the issue" but as this has been "worked on" unsucessfully for several weeks I can't help but think that either they attach a pretty low priority to this, they can't unscramble their own "update", or are simply no longer interested in supplying to marinas and boatyards which are apparently classed as no-go business addresses. This could be a problem for anyone expecting to have a delivery during or prior to a cruise, or indeed for hire boaters collecting an unprovisioned boat--- has anyone had a similar experience, or has found a way to confound Tesco's computer ? Failing that does anyone have recent experience of sucessful internet deliveries by other supermarkets?

For Electrical, and many other aspects of boat mainenance, I recommend "Boat ownwers mechanical and electrical manual" by Nigel Calder. It is not cheap (c. £30) but is the only book which I have found which helped me to understand how to install a SAFE and efficient 12v system - safety and efficient circuits must take priority over cheap !

HondaEU20i -- quiet inside the boat( we have to mute the TV to check if it is running ! ) and when placed on the back deck is almost inaudible from one boat length away- better than most boat engines being run ! One big advantage of Honda ( and also I understand-Yamaha) is that they can run on LPG - my experience of running cost is about 50p per hour - a LOT cheaper than petrol or even the main boat engine.

The longer you leave it the worse it will get. We have had to move in ice up to about 10mm thick and have found that the 2-pack epoxy blacking was completely undamaged - you do need to be back to bare metal before you can use this , but it is well worth the extra cost in terms of longevity and freedom from worry when in ice !

We have had a Honda2.0i for about 18months and are very pleased with it, it is much easier to get fresh gas bottles than to find petrol along the cut and works out much cheaper to operate - approx 50 hours from a 13kg cylinder, which, depending where you get your gas, works out at about 50p per hour - apart from changing the oil at 200hour intervals it has required no maintenance ( the plug seems to stay like new rather than sooting up as you would expect from petrol ) Definitely recommend !

We have had an E3 running in our 60' since August , the overboil protection as ready installed by Kuranda is fine- I wouldn't try to "improve" on this. As already mentioned, it is a good idea to fit a separate Fire Valve - also as supplied by Kuranda. We have a Jabsco 8-24volt circulation pump -also by Kuranda** - I am absolutely delighted with this, it is TOTALLY SILENT, can be plumbed in a straight line ( whereas many other circulation pumps have in/out at right angles and necessitate a completely unecessary angle in the pipework), draws almost no power (fraction of an amp),the flow rate is adjustable to suit your individual needs, and is rated for continuous use , the downside if you like is that it costs something over £200.00 -- I consider it to be well worth it! We have found that flue length -v- oil valve setting is crucial to efficient running but once established it can be left to do it's thing and can be "adjusted" by changing the length of external flue if needed - altho. at the risk of stating the obvious - the higher the setting the greater the fuel consumption! Hope this helps! ** N.B. I have no connection to this company ! -no axe to grind!

I am looking at the Alde 3010 boiler for Hot Water /and / or central heating in a 70' - has anyone actual experience of gas consumption , as opposed to manufacturer's figures ? Will it provide adequate hot water in summer when the central heating is turned down ? Thanks.

I am considering replacing my D5W Eberspacher with a Kabola E3 Boiler in my 60' n.b -- as far as I can see this is a good move, achieving nil electrical power requirement and quiet operation, with very few moving parts or electrical gizmos to go wrong -- the only possible drawback which I can see is the fairly tall chimney/flue which is required although a "cruising cowl" is available -- -- however there seem to be very few of these Kabolas fitted in Narrowboats - is it just that I have not noticed them, or are there good reasons for their apparent scarcity -- anyone with personal experience of Kabolas care to comment ? Thanks.

I need to adjust the valve clearances on a fairly old Beta 1903 -- the actual adjustment doesn't look to be a problem but rotating the engine to achieve TDC is a bit of a mystery which is not mentioned in the manual - I suppose it's so basic that it doesn't need explaining except to thiko's like me! I assume that the high compression would mean that the engine won't turn just by rotating the PTO shaft on the front of the engine with a pair of grips ?? -- Do I need to slacken, or remove, the injectors in order to reduce the compression ? Is there a "magic formula" for saving rotating things too many times ? --I seem to remember something about valve numbers adding up to 9 each time? ( ie; set 4 with 5 at TDC etc ) or am I dreaming? Thanks.

Thanks to everyone who took the trouble to answer my question re: length of locks - it looks as if I can get through and will be going there in the next month or two.

If you do end up blacking the boat I would suggest that you give serious thought to using two pack epoxy - it is available for DIY use - I have used it on my last two boats very sucessfully using a 4" roller. The product which I used has a grade designed for less than perfect surfaces and if the existing bitumen is almost dissapeared you would probably just need to give it a good rub down - I did this, together with three coats of epoxy on my current boat last year - we recently left our mooring in clear water and after a couple of miles came upon thick ice( averaging up to 1" in places) this lasted for some 40 minutes, with no opportunity to wind we just had to keep going, the epoxy is absolutely unmarked ! - I am sure that ordinary bitumen would have been abraded badly and needed a lift out and new blacking -- I rest my case !

Hi, We are hoping to cruise the Leeds and Liverpool canal in the Spring -- I have heard conflicting reports of the locks - not suitable for a 60'( not including fenders) OR -OK for a 60' plus fenders. Can anyone confirm, from personal experience, if 60' would be OK from Wigan to Leeds - are they measured from gate to gate, or from cill to bottom gate ? Thanks.