jonathanA

Yes the station I'm talking about is fairly close to the Lancaster canal and I assume they don't want the hassle and they have a sign saying they will not sell for use on inland water. They used to sell 20L drums and think they did a good trade selling to the construction trade. I did wonder if they would stop selling it altogether but so far so good.

A petrol station near me sells red. They specifically wont sell it for inland boat use. I buy it for my agricultural tractor. I think non commercial electricity generation is also allowable. Use in 'plant' like diggers is no longer allowed.

I don't know Scancom /never used them, but the 'model' of selling multinetwork capable devices with sims from more than one provider is not uncommon in the business mobile world. i know of several companies that do it, SAS, Cradlepoint and Blue Wireless to name a few. These types of organisations are even sometimes used by the big network providers to help with coverage, service levels or to avoid licence issues for their large enterprise /multinational customers. Most just provide 'internet access' some are a bit more sophisticated and provide private peering or tunnel back to 'gateways'. although just simple internet access is usually the simplest/cheapest.

your doing such a lovely job. I'm sure you have thought about how you can add/remove ballast once you are fitting out and maybe adding weight (e.g stove) on one side. good luck and keep putting up the pictures/progress. 🙂

Similar to blackrose I have a small diameter chimney brush thsts fits on my drain/chimney rods. I also find having a good hot fire from time to time helps clear any build up of tar or other crud.

My CO monitor reads 0 all the time. The only time and it's pretty rare that I get anyvsmoke out of the morso is whe I open the main door not long after lighting with no draught from the bottom door or bottom vent. Think I'm with the others seems like a draw problem to me. Even when my seals have been ready for replacing I've not any leakage. The rear flue cover plate is a good call as it might not be obvious from inside the stove that it's not sealed properly. Mine actually fell off completely .. that was quite noticeable!

one of these or something similiar: (they are not well protected against reverse polarity DAMHIK)

what ever who ever installed it decided ..... Alan very kindly provided the ISO spec for AC wiring, I was actually wondering what the DC spec was if it exists. if was me blue would 12V neg, brown would be 'live' so 12v pos. and green yellow i would not use or at a push might use it for a switch wire, but sleeved or marked. it probably didn't matter as much in those days as the old telecom wiring codes used a solid colour and a tracer or had a cotton outer sheath. i think they also learned about colour blindness and when i had my PO engineering interview the interviewer had a cable sample and asked me to identify the colour of each core. At the time i thought it odd, until someone told me it was a colour blindness test. I suspect you would not be able to discriminate against someone like that now...

yeah and it would seem that yellow with a green stripe *could* be used for live/neutral and technically be within the spec, even though any sane person would think it was bonkers.... just a good example of why you should never assume anything where boats are concerned !

Yes so long as its not used for live or neutral. Guess there is no real difference between green with yellow stripe and yellow with green stripe.

i've been using team viewer to access my victron solar controller and i can see that with my who are we router left running (direct on 12v) and a 12v/usb to supply my android phone even as this time of year my solar is keeping the batteries topped up despite the approx 24AH/day used by the router. (no shoreline) I like the idea of using sonoff (use them at home a lot). I can use teamviewer to turn on/off ewelink camera function on my phone. I'll probably look for a better 12v/local memory cctv camera now I've proved that leaving the router on is viable. sonoff do some 12v power wi-fi switches ( 4 channel) with 'dry' relay contacts could be very useful for switching on/off anything on the boat remotely. although wouldnt need teamviewer to do that of course. the point is all this is for nothing. the sonoff stuff is dirt cheap. (IMO)

I'm not the biggest fan of RCR, but fair play to them and their team on the rescue and putting the video of it up. the boat seemed to live up to its name when it came up...

🙂 I don't think there is any agreed or defined standard for marine wiring colour codes (I'm sure Alan D E will be able to quote the RCD/ISO spec if there is 🙂 ) they look a bit thin for a 12v immersion, i'm sure @Norm55 has other issues to deal with, but just wanted to alert him in case he didn't realise, could be its not relevant as there is no immersion heater or nothing on the other end of the wires.

I do hope the blue/brown/green&yellow wires are not the mains electric supply to the immersion heater. -Really should have an sheath or be in flexible conduit as they look like they could easily rub against metalwork with shocking results

I don't think it's anything as esoteric. Just simple cost! easier and cheaper to put one isolator in the common neg to isolate both banks. (In simpler times !) Eta I'm not advocating it just saying why it was done in the past before some numpty jumps in, has a go at me and tells us all why it's a bad idea.

with all taps off does the pump stop after a few minutes ? if not I would suspect a burst pipe/sprung fitting somewhere after the shower/basin or another possibility is the calorifier PRV being stuck open and your pump is pumping all your water out via the calorifier PRV. I assume you've checked to see if any water is appearing in unexpected places/coming out of any skin fittings when the pump is running.

why would if you were building a new boat ?... presumably for new build the boat builder would install a 'proper'* system - indeed like you have or at least one that they (boat builder) are prepared to install/warrant. I guess you could still have a customer 'insisting' the builder does something stupid, but that's a different conversation. * proper - however anyone chooses to define that !!! which could be a well designed hybrid i suppose. I'm not sure i've seen an answer to the how do i 'drop' some lithiums in to an otherwise bog standard starter/domestic twin alternator set up. maybe there is no safe/sensible way other than swap to a 'fancy' alternator designed to charge Lithiums rather than automotive LA's ?

there is a time to let your head rule your heart and sounds like this is one of those occasions. it would be interesting to know what the issues were, but I would understand if the OP doesn't want to share that and risk speculation/comment, if not outright criticism (from some), for what I'm sure has been a difficult decision. good luck with finding the right boat when you are ready.

I think you've slightly misunderstood/got confused with the other posts (easily done 🙂 ). in my scenario its a dual alternator system, with the domestic bank having been replaced by lithiums. (so potential for alternator cooking)

so there is a bit more to the back story.... possibly something like fix leaking stern gear and/or ensure bilge pump works....

to some extent that is what he has a LA starter and lithium domestic bank. the issues are the usual ones - how to stop the alternator cooking, although that doesn't seem to be an problem and how to deal with the 100% charge disconnect situation when running the engine... its the latter that is the concern in this situation as charger/solar are doing the job they are supposed to. so would simply parallelling the alternators (and therefore connecting the batts together) ensure there was always an LA battery taking charge when the engine is running (and only when the engine is running) ?

its is the Manchester evening snooze so have to take anything they report with a pinch of salt. Sad for the fellas affected. maybe the manchester rain (which can be biblical) filled the bilge, no bilge pump/not working and down she went. does seem odd that it could happen seemingly quite quickly though.

I think I'm going to have to re-read this thread several times... so what is a 'reasonable' way to 'drop in' some lithium. Here's a real life situation. (not me but someone I know) bank of 3 LA, replaced with 3 lifos 105Ah. canaline dual alternator engine, 175A iskra (I think) domestic, Sterling 3KW combi and some solar (less than a KW probably). LA starter remains. The boat does not move a lot, although they may do more cruising in the better weather. currently the owner manages his batteries via the lifos blue tooth app to monitor the state of charge and mainly controlling the charging of the lithiums by switching the charger on/off as needed. This is fine during the winter when hes not moving, but once he goes for a cruise then I fear he could get the disconnect/alternator spike sceanario, which he is blissfully unaware of... This is supposedly a professional install done by someone who does this 'all the time for campervans/caravans' what does the panel think he needs.... anecdotally the alternator seems quite happy charging the lithiums from low states of charge and seems to be running at a max of about 30A into each lifos battery without issue. he's never taken them to much above an indicated 95% charge on the app.

I'd second Tracy's suggestion of andersen from Middlewich, or ABC out of Anderton Marina. ( I think its ABC), lots of interesting canal from either of those. Otherwise Pennine cruisers from Skipton. Family firm, nice boats and good options from Skipton.

Yes I've used acetone based nail polish remover in the past and fine wire wool or those green scouring pads.