Paul C

We sell sheets too.

I'll take my advice from trained professionals - but thanks for the offer. I agree, many people (it seems 1.5m/year) aren't good at keeping to the speed limits. Why they speed is a matter for another topic, but its a fairly simple approach from me: 1) know the speed limit at all times*, 2) keep the vehicle speed at or under the limit. Since I get paid hourly, it is disadvantageous to 'speed' anyway. If a large percentage of your concentration is needed for the task of adhering to the speed limit, I'd suggest you have low capacity on concentration/observation of road-related hazards. The fact that your record is clean is probably as much to do with luck as good judgement. Or just that you're naturally not taking risks on the road anyway. * Speed limits are shown in big numbers in a red circle on road signs. PS speed limiters have been mandatory since the early 1990s

I had one shout "slow down" and I shouted back "I'm actually in neutral" then pointed out the throttle control which was indeed in neutral with idle revs.

I work for a furniture manufacturing company (beds and chairs). We never use the terms "king" size or "queen" size because people's understanding and expectation of what it means, varies so much. Also, we don't use metric units for beds. Ours are all made to order and we can accommodate 6'9" and 7'0" (and anything else if you really wanted it) lengths. But about 75% of the beds are 6'6" length and the others 6'3". The widths are typically 2'3", 2'6", 3', 3'6", 4', 4'6", 5' but we can join 2'3", 2'6, 3'0" etc as desired and obtain a headboard to match and fit.

Are you saying its impossible to comply with the 20mph speed limit? Are you incapable of controlling the speed of your vehicle to such a fine-grained requirement? I am a professional driver and get paid hourly - it is possible to comply with speed limits!

Bridge 1 isn't narrow, but bridge 2 is. And the main line of the SU is a broad beam canal from Nantwich to (just before) Ellesmere Port.

Woah hang on..........for Cat D RCD/RCR requirements, the boat builder themselves can self-certify. So you can't say "the boat doesn't comply" if its been certified as complying!! Only a suitably qualified surveyor can negate the original compliance, or at least fail it on a PCA. If the issue is, you BELIEVE the boat doesn't meet the underlying standards, but it has RCD/RCR, then that's a different matter. An internet forum expert, no matter how experienced, isn't the builder and isn't a qualified surveyor.

Well.....no. There should never (in normal use) be any current from hull to negative terminal of the battery. The bonding is done to ensure eg a circuit breaker pops in a fault condition rather than raising the potential of the hull. If the hull is being used as a return path, it either indicates a faulty installation of something, or a stray connection by something else to the hull (which is also a fault).

But that would be a voltage drop between nominally grounded (negative) points which would always been seen, to a greater or lesser extent, in normal use. We're talking about the fault condition of a current flow between battery negative and hull, which should never occur.

The easy way to do it is go on Midland Chandlers website and pick one item from every category they list.

I suspect on a graph of cost vs compliance, an asymptote is reached rather than an axis.

Maybe.......but then it depends on their approach to how thorough to be. At the end of the day, we're dealing with a fairly simple metal fixing on a steel hull which can be easily visually inspected and assessed for ultimate strength. Thus suitability for the intended job, and pass/fail of that item on the PCA, is not contentious. Since the requirement isn't quantitative, I understand where you're coming from. An analogy might be towbar fixings or artic 5th wheel kingpins etc. The manufacturer engineers these and specifies all the pertinent physical aspects (material, size, fixtures, inspection/maintenance schedule) to it gives clarity on what might be a 'grey' area into a black/white issue.

The PCA surveyor has looked at 1 boat (the OP's) and deemed that the T-stud on that boat isn't strong enough. It doesn't mean that other T studs on other boats aren't strong enough.

Sorry to not answer the question, but it needs clarification. Firstly, when you say multimeter, do you mean a multimeter set to read voltage? Or something else? Because its a multimeter........it can read resistance and current (and probably a few more things) too. Its worth clarifying, although I'm 99% sure you do mean DC voltage. But never assume.... Secondly, a voltmeter reads potential difference between 2 points. So when you say "connect the negative to the hull" what do you mean? The negative (black) lead of the multimeter? Where is the other lead connected - the hull too? The negative battery terminal? etc. Also worth mentioning, the (thick) cable that connects the battery negative to the hull doesn't carry any current in normal operation. Its only in fault conditions it would carry current. The idea being, that if a wiring fault occurred which let a positive wire touch the hull, instead of raising the potential of the hull it would flow a current which would trip a circuit breaker or maybe blow a fuse if fitted. Yes in normal non-fault conditions, you'd want to see 0.000V between the battery negative and the hull.

Maybe I needed to preface it with "all else being equal" I'd go for ignition first? Obviously there's some boats which hide away the ability to stop the engine quickly in an emergency. And having the ignition inside makes running the engine while moored up in the rain, nicer.

The 3 bar will probably achieve a higher percentage of the nominal flowrate in its specification, all else being equal. So you'd need to make some kind of adjustment on the mixer shower, with the mixer control you already have. But as stated before, it won't ACTUALLY be anywhere near 3 bar (or 2 bar) the pump is pressurising the water to, it will be in the order of 0.1-0.5 bar as determined by the pipework inner diameter, length, number of bends/fittings etc and how much open the tap/flow control lever of the shower is.

Ah is a terrible unit.

reminds me of the inclined plane on the Elbląg Canal https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elbląg_Canal

I would say that epoxy filler is appropriate for areas such as cabin sides, where you might want a cosmetic improvement. For underwater areas of the hull, the cosmetic aspect is not relevant - but protecting it for the future, given the discovery or knowledge of pitting, is. At a minimum, it would be a good idea to bang on some blacking, but ideally fill the pits with weld (very easy to do with a MIG welder), then prep and black it.