pete.i

On mine the cable end goes through a hole in the stop lever and it is secured by a screw on nipple that prevents it pulling out. I have a spring that is also hooked into the same hole and that attaches to the engine block, actually to a small bracket secured one of the diesel pump securing bolts. The spring keeps the stop lever in the run position and when I pull the cable it pulls against the spring and cuts off the diesel and stops the engine.. Looks like this has already been answered.

That would have been me. My glow plug snapped off when I was screwing it in. I realise that you thought it was the tip that broke Tony but it wasn't. The plug broke off just below the hex nut used to screw the plug in. I had only got it 3/4 of the way in when it snapped. I left the remaining piece of that plug in for a while as it wasn't causing a loss of pressure and my engine was starting fine but as the end of summer approached I decided to remove it and put a new one in. I didn't have any problems with the replacement. As I said I have no idea why it broke off I had already put 3 plugs in without any problem and I didn't think I was using excessive force to screw that one in. Anyway snap off it did but I have now got it out and everything is good.

They had a couple of those on the Selby canal a few months back. A guy sits where that box is on the top and the tracks propell it through the water. The ones on the Selby had a net attached to the front that could be lowered into the water and then lifted out again using hydraulic rams. They used those to pick out that duck weed stuff that covered the Selby canal for much of the summer. once they had a netfull they would drive the contraption up the bank and dump the weed then go back and start over again. Problem was that as soon as they cleared a part of the canal and moved on that part filled up again and the weed grew back so quickly anyway in the sun that they were pretty inneffective. HMMM just noticed that I have an entry below how many posts that I have posted saying "0 warning points" I wonder why that should be there? I don't see it on any one else' s posts. Okay so that is only there when I log in and I suppose that no-one else can see it. Must just be for my info only. I just haven't noticed it before.

I changed mine a few months back following Tony Brooks's advice about tiny turns and reversals. Mine came out fine, all in one piece. Cleaning the carbon out was okay as well, just do as TB and the YouTube vid says with the correct size drill. I did manage to break one of the new ones going in though. I am really not sure how or why that happened as I had put 3 in okay but for some reason the fourth one snapped off as I was tightening it. I did manage to get the broken one out using a screw extractor and put another one in and everything seems to be okay. I have changed two sets now (I have a spare engine) and that was the only problem I had. I have to admit, though, I was lucky with the extraction. That could have turned into a nightmare.

My Ecofan isn't stirling powered and it dosen't seem to do anything. it cost me nigh on a hundred quid when I bought it 3 years ago and now they are going for a lot less on eBay. I have lent mine to my neighbour because they are thinking of getting one so I told them to try mine before they waste their money.

Every thing said above can cause it. I had it on my boat and I cured my cycling water pump by putting a one way valve in the supply pipe just after comes out of the water storage. I was told that the system pressure can leak back to the storage tank and when the pressure falls the pump cuts in. Sounded feasable to me so I fitted said one way valve and the problem was cured. That was 18 months ago and I haven't had a reoccurrence of the problem. These one way valves are also called check valves and I bought mine from Jewsons.

Hello all. My boat, Keb, is said to be "built in the style of Hancock and Lane." Keb is a 30 footer and I do know that the person who built Keb wasn't connected with Hancock and Lane. But because that is the way Keb has been described and this thread mentions that Hancock and Lane supplied kits I am now wondering if my boat was originally supplied as a kit to the builder. I know that would be almost impossible to confirm but I am still interested. Leo, on here, owned Keb a while back as did Spuds's parents (I think) so if either of you can throw any light on the whether Keb is a Hancock and Lane kit boat or not that would be appreciated. The picture on Adam Swindlles Wright's post is interesting because of the circular feature on the bow of the boat in that picture. Keb has exactly the same feature and I was wondering if that was a, sort of, Hancock and Lane trademark. Keb was built 1981/82 ish so Hancock and Lane were still going at that time it would seem but of course the builder could have bought the kit long before that date.

Firstly the sump isn't very deep nor large about a half inch deep and one tile square and yes a very small amount of water does get left there but I mop it out with a small cloth. I wouldn't leave my shower tray wet either. I would dry it with an old towel after I had used the shower. There's enough inherent dampness around on a boat as it is without compounding that issue.

Mine already had the sump because the Sureflo was fitted there. When I removed the Sureflo I tiled and waterproofed the sump hole and the Whale gulper pipe now enters above the sump. The end of the pipe sits in the old sump. Because my Whale Gulper pipe enters from slightly above, I now have an inch or so of water left in the pipe which when the pump is switched off drains back into the sump. If I didn't have the sump that inch or so of water, which isn't much I know. would just stay in the shower tray. I couldn't put the Whale pipe anywhere else due to the pump itself being in the engine compartment as there wasn't enough room to fit the Whale Gulper directly where the old pump was. Other than that I agree 100% about getting a Whale Gulper rather than anything else. The Sureflo I had originally was a pile of junk.

Mine is a wood base and then tiled on top with red treaded tiles, like what you used to see in swimming bath showers in the old days, and then grouted with waterproof grout. The tiles are brought up the sides to form a tray that is half a tile deep. My boat is 30 odd years old and it hasn't leaked yet. I have a small tiled sump in the corner and the whale gulper, which I fitted because the sureflo pump that was there was the biggest load of junk that I ever did see, suction pipe just sits in the sump. Seems to work for me and that type of shower base can be built to, almost, any size or shape. oh you don't have to use old fashioned tiles it's just that my boat is old.

You can get all the bits from Acorn Canvas http://www.acorncanvas.com/ including the canvas or off EBay. I haven't made a pram cover but I have made my own cratch cover and I used vinyl leatherette again off Ebay. Quite cheap and easy to work with. Leatherette lasting qualities wont be as good as the proper stuff but it is a lot cheaper and it's completely waterproof. If you are doing it yourself you will need an industrial sewing for the proper stuff. My wife and I sewed the vinyl leatherette together on a domestic machine. I did buy my helm cover and that is made of the much thicker canvas but it would have been infinitely more difficult to make than my cratch cover. So far my home built cratch cover complete with vinyl windows and zipped doors has lasted 3 and a half years. It's still completely waterproof but it is starting to look a bit weather worn. It should clean up but to be honest it's just as easy to make up new bits. I made mine in three pieces. One piece is the roof and then two sides that attach using velcro and butterfly fasteners.

ERRMM Mr Floatsyourboat. We have a recipe section bung the recipe up in there. I love a good curry, but not a really hot one, (yeah i know but I hate one that makes me sweat) My missus doesn't cook currys and I don't like tinned ones or the ready mades that they sell in supermarkets so I have been looking for a decent curry recipe.

weelcome to the forum. I used this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2054436.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H0.Xleatherette&_nkw=leatherette&_sacat=0 Dirt cheap (don't go for the expensive stuff) mine was approx £5 / metre. Don't expect it too last too long though. Having said that my cratch cover has been up for the last three years. It's easy to work with, slightly stretchy and lots of different colours and we sewed it on our domestic machine or at least my missus did. Downside is it is only a metre and a half wide. Did for me though till now. Or if you really don't mind how it looks and it's not going to be on for too long get a cheap nylon tarpaulin. They come in lots of different colours as well but they don't last very long and your boat could end up looking like a market stall. But as I say Oh well others got in before so I will stop there. Proffessionally made ones are the best way to go although they dont last as long as the cost of them would seem to indicate.

Same stuff prettier tin tho so why that should be cheaper I don't know. Depends on who you buy from on Ebay thats why I did the edit. I have to admit that the same applies to chandleries to be fair.

This is the one I use. There are others though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/110409068952?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108 Thought I had better add that I don't get it from EBay at £4 odd for postage. Chandlers sell it as well.

We have terrapins in the Selby canal and have had for a number of years. They, apparently, were originally pets that got too big and were released. They breed in the warm outlet from Drax Power Station which outfalls into the Ouse and find their way into the canal from there. We have four or five sightings a year and I don't take my boat out that often. They like to bask in warm sunshine sitting on exposed logs. Apparently red eared terrapins, which is what they are in the Selby Canal at least, can be quite viscious and can give a nasty bite. A couple that I have seen have easily been the size of dinner plates.

I bought the Durite ones from here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GLOW-PLUG-TO-SUIT-BMC-1-5-1-8-2-5-DIESEL-12V-HDS227-CH32-/221497280334?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item339244474e They seem to be okay. I would think that any of those on those pages would be okay. You can also get them from ASAP supplies. I did ask on here what the difference between the dual core ones and the single core ones was but I didn't get a satisfactory answer to that so I just bought Durite single core ones. I assume you know all about being extremely careful when you remove the old ones and all about cleaning the carbon out from the holes before putting the new ones in. It's all on this forum somewhere and there is a You Tube video about replacing them by Wilton Marina. Just use the search engine here.

There you go and a link fron where that came from. Bit of a long post I'm afraid but burning wood can be a complicated process. Wood to burn in woodburning stovesStove Help & Advice Home Best Wood for burning in Woodburning Stoves, (Woodburners) Wood needs to be well seasoned before it is burnt in a stove, irrespective if you have a woodburning stove, (Woodburner), or a Multifuel Stove. Different woods take varying amounts of time to season but, as a general guide, before being used in a stove, wood should be cut to length, split and then stacked under cover (with the sides open to the air) for at least a year. It is then good practice to have it in the log basket, inside the house, for a few days before it is actually used in the woodburner. If you have your wood delivered 'ready to burn', stress to your supplier that the wood must be well seasoned, as it is being burnt in a stove and, as a way of checking, most woods tend to get splits across the grain on the ends of the log when it is dry. You can use one of our Stovesonline moisture meters to test how dry your firewood is. Conifer wood tends to be rather resinous and is best used as kindling. Nothing, however, beats old skip wood / builders timber as kindling (remember not to burn treated or painted timber though). If you do a fair bit of slow woodburning, it is good practice to burn a good, hot stove a couple of times a week to keep your chimney dry and prevent the build up of tar. It is important to use your woodburner regularly for to get the best results from your stove. Do NOT be tempted to burn unseasoned wood in your woodburner. As for the best types of wood to burn, in your woodburner, these old rhymes are as good a guide as anything to the best, and worst, sorts: Alternatively have a look at this wood as fuel chart Beechwood fires are bright and clear If the logs are kept a year. Chestnut's only good, they say, If for long 'tis laid away. But Ash new or Ash old Is fit for a queen with crown of gold. Birch and fir logs burn too fast Blaze up bright and do not last. It is by the Irish said Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread. Elm wood burns like churchyard mould, E ' en the very flames are cold. But Ash green or Ash brown Is fit for a queen with golden crown. Poplar gives a bitter smoke, Fills your eyes and makes you choke. Apple wood will scent your room With an incense like perfume. Oaken logs, if dry and old. Keep away the winter's cold. But Ash wet or Ash dry A king shall warm his slippers by. Oaken logs, if dry and old, Keep away the winter's cold Poplar gives a bitter smoke , Fills your eyes, and makes you choke Elm wood burns like churchyard mould , E'en the very flames are cold Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread - Or so it is in Ireland said, Applewood will scent the room, Pearwood smells like flowers in bloom, But Ashwood wet and Ashwood dry, A King can warm his slippers by. Beechwood logs burn bright and clear, If the wood is kept a year Store your Beech for Christmas-tide, With new-cut holly laid aside Chestnut's only good, they say If for years it's stored away Birch and Fir wood burn too fast, Blaze too bright, and do not last Flames from larch will shoot up high, And dangerously the sparks will fly... But Ashwood green, And Ashwood brown Are fit for Queen with golden crown

I do not have a hydraulic drive and I know absolutely nothing about them but I have to agree with MtB. if the engine is at the front of the boat and the propellor gubbins is at the back where and how are the hydraulic pipes run to get the drive from the front to the back. How accessable are these pipes. If they do burst, and I know it's not something that happens often, how much of a mess is it going to make in the rest of the boat. I have just had a hydraulic pipe burst on my boat. It's the pipe that takes the engine oil to the oil cooler it's 18 inches long. My engine and drive is all in one place at the back of my boat. When the pipe burst it dumped most of the 4.5 gallons of engine oil into the engine bilge. It was a nightmare to clean up. If that had gone into other parts of the boat it would have been a hundred times worse. As I said I do not have a hydraulic drive and I know nothing about them but at the very least it means more stuff to go wrong.

And that, as OldGoat has quite rightly pointed out and I have highlighted, is the crux of the matter. Any mobile internet connection is so slow as to be almost unworkable for streaming anything. In this country, as far as internet access is concerned we are still walking with dinosaurs (sorry OldGoat). Also quite a lot of the canal system tends to be low down so connection can be iffy at best. Apparently 4G or 4g, whatever that is, is supposed to be much better but at the moment, as far as I am aware, only EE are offering that. Again, as pointed out, dongles can be an unmitigated disaster. Go for MiFi the downside to which is that there is a limitation an how many devices can be connected at any one time. To be honest if you are going to be relying on any streaming for your business I think standard mobile broadband on the canals would be very unreliable and I think I would be contacting the various mobile broadband suppliers and asking them for advice with the caveat they will only be after your business and so will tell you anything to get you on board. An arial outside the boat would be essential because no wireless will work very well inside a tin box which, essentially, is what your boat is. Again, as has been pointed out, for general, pretty unreliable, broadband access 3 seems to be the best.