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Installing a bilge pump from scratch


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Hello Canal World!

 

Here's my first post. I've been a liveaboard for 7 months now, and the reason it's taken me so long to post anything is that until now I've found every single answer to my questions in previous threads, so thanks everyone!

 

So I've looked around and searched the forum and I've not found anyone who seems to be in this situation so here's my quesiton:

 

I'd like to install a bilge pump. As far as I can tell, there has never been one on my boat as there is nowhere to water would be able to exit. There's the standard "Bilge" botton on the Calcutt dashboard but the wire doesn't lead anywhere.

 

We're taking the boat out of water for blacking next month and also doing a whole load of welding and other maintenance. I was looking for some advice on:

 

Where to fit the bilge pump?

 

Where to put the water output?

 

What's the best pump to get?

 

Thanks in advance, and please let me know whether I wasn't clear enough about anything.

 

 

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I have done this on my boat for similar reasons.

 

Best place for the bilge pump is at the lowest point where water collects.

 

Do u have a seperate area by the stern gear for water collection or one large bilge area?

 

Does the engine have a drip tray under?

 

You will need to cut a hole in the side of the boat to put a skin fitting in. High enough up that it won't cause trouble 6 to 10 inches above waterline depending on the school of thought you follow.

 

Then connect the bilge pimp with a suitable tubing to the skin fitting.

 

Wire up to switch ( can have a float switch if you have a setting for this.)

 

Rule bilge pumps are generally well regarded.

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Hi and welcome to the forum.

 

Not an expert, but was faced with a similar situation, except ours was an emergency as we'd just got our new to us but old boat into the water for the first time since it had been on hard standing for two years, and discovered a very leaky stern gland....and no bilge pump or greaser. (The 'well-known' engineer who worked on preparing our boat and servicing the engine failed to point out this omission!). A quick dash to the local chandlers and an hour later we had a working bilge pump and greaser.

 

I bought fhe Johnson's L450 automatic pump. It's pretty standard.

I attached the pump to a piece of wood, and weighted it down with the end of a lump hammer....we haven't changed that 'high-tech solution' in three years!

Wiring was straightforward, via a rocker switch for Auto-Off-Manual.

 

Tested it in a bucket first before putting in place to check everything was working as it should.

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+1 for the Johnson cartridge pumps, some suppliers but not all include the non return valve.

 

The wedge shaped Rule float switches are good too, both pump and switch can be screwed/tie wrapped to a plasic chopping board and weighted down.

 

The black ribbed flexible pond hose is good for connecting up though not as hardy as braided PVC hose. Don't forget the recommended fuse in the positive near the batt, and good corrosion proof electrical connections.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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  • 5 months later...

Quebec makes a good point in that it is a good idea to be able to switch on the pump manually.

 

The easiest way and probably a bit better than having a rocker switch (manual. off. auto) is to have a standard on.off switch in parallel with the float switch.

 

Reason it is impossible for the switch to be knocked into the wrong position ie. off

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How about just make a connection between the common and auto contacts behind the switch. So it'll then be auto, auto, manual.

 

Also maybe put a decent panel light across the pump, will help to show if it's switched to manual accidentally or the float switch is stuck or the pump has failed and the bilge is filling up.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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