AMModels Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Its what looks like a star class on the bank side sunk but not loking in too bad condition, contrary to what the commentator says. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Its what looks like a star class on the bank side sunk but not loking in too bad condition, contrary to what the commentator says. Can't open it up for some reason but it's almost certainly Electra which has been there a couple of years now. It's a pity because the owner was really keen (I did quite a bit of work on her about 6 years ago) but seems to have lost motivation. He works with swmbo but she's now given up mentioning it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMModels Posted July 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I should have read my own website shouldnt I!!? sold to Stanton Ironworks became Stanton No. 59 then sold to Stewart and Lloyds 7/47.Unconverted fs 6/00 10/00 based at Ivinghoe on the GU. sunk at Charity Dock, Bedworth, Coventry canal. Attempts are being made to contact her owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Pete Gilbert got fed up with refloating her. It's not hurting her being sunk,. though it's a shame the brand new tarps and floorboards are ruined. He's all paid up on rent and stuff though. It's a bit bizarre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMModels Posted July 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 looking at the vid I didnt think she looked like a derelict boat with the obvious lack of cabin the rest of her looked in decent nick...not that lack of a cabin is a sign of a derelict boat carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 (edited) looking at the vid I didnt think she looked like a derelict boat with the obvious lack of cabin the rest of her looked in decent nick...not that lack of a cabin is a sign of a derelict boat carl Yeah the bottoms are pretty ropey, still thick but lots of knotholes rotted out so we sheared them. there were a few soft planks which were replaced. Her main problem is the back end. There is practically no counter block, as a temporary measure we stuffed nearly a whole bale of oakum in and tinplated the shape back, to wait for a suitable lump of wood, but that's when the work stopped. I was going to put a new back cabin on for him but he suddenly took the boat off to charity and everything ground to a halt. Edited July 14, 2007 by carlt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMModels Posted July 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Out of interest how much would a 'lump of wood' suitable for a counterblock set you back if you couldnt find a (very) generous sawmill somewhere? in a case where its the knotholes that have rotted out could a plug cut and fill technique work on the rotten knotholes, working on the premise that when they got wet the plugs would swell to a watertight fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughc Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Out of interest how much would a 'lump of wood' suitable for a counterblock set you back if you couldnt find a (very) generous sawmill somewhere? in a case where its the knotholes that have rotted out could a plug cut and fill technique work on the rotten knotholes, working on the premise that when they got wet the plugs would swell to a watertight fit? I have a largish piece of partly seasoned oak out of which you might get a small counter block.If you are interested I could measure it. Regards H.C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMModels Posted July 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 It was a genuine 'just out of interest' query Hugh but many thanks for the kind offer, I am thinking/hoping to start doing some wooden boat restoration. To start with I wouldnt dream of taking on a narrowboat.. (just in case SWMBO is reading) but a small dinghy/cruiser that I could work on and then sell to finance another (bigger) project is very appealing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 Out of interest how much would a 'lump of wood' suitable for a counterblock set you back if you couldnt find a (very) generous sawmill somewhere? in a case where its the knotholes that have rotted out could a plug cut and fill technique work on the rotten knotholes, working on the premise that when they got wet the plugs would swell to a watertight fit? The best bit of wood for a counter block actually has little commercial value. A sizable lump from the very base of the trunk or near to where the branches start, where the grain is going off in all directions, is best because the strength is greatest and there's less chance of riving splits. Shaping the lump is best done with chainsaw and adze so there's no need for sawmill involvement, if you can find a suitable bit. I found my potential block when an oak uprooted itself across the road. A timber merchant came and took what was worth anything to him, leaving the base of the tree (about 6' long and 5' diameter of heartwood) and many thick knee sized offcuts. I bunged the landowner £20 for a beer and winched it back to the right side of the hedge 'for a rainy day'. Usk's counter block seems to be pretty solid but you never know. It's funny how much useful 'boat wood' you can find by rooting through a timber merchants 'firewood' pile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy-Neil Posted July 14, 2007 Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 I'm surprised they don't make them clean up this mess....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMModels Posted July 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2007 The best bit of wood for a counter block actually has little commercial value. A sizable lump from the very base of the trunk or near to where the branches start, where the grain is going off in all directions, is best because the strength is greatest and there's less chance of riving splits. Shaping the lump is best done with chainsaw and adze so there's no need for sawmill involvement, if you can find a suitable bit. I found my potential block when an oak uprooted itself across the road. A timber merchant came and took what was worth anything to him, leaving the base of the tree (about 6' long and 5' diameter of heartwood) and many thick knee sized offcuts. I bunged the landowner £20 for a beer and winched it back to the right side of the hedge 'for a rainy day'. Usk's counter block seems to be pretty solid but you never know. It's funny how much useful 'boat wood' you can find by rooting through a timber merchants 'firewood' pile. Hmm interesting, I know a few of the local tree surgeons/fellers around here and may just have found a source for anyones counter block. We have a lot of old deciduous forests around here as well as the 'lovely' pine things I may just have a word in my mates shell like next time we're down the pub. LOL Neil, she obviously wasnt impressed with the historic value of the yard and some of the boats therein. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now