Fuel Injection Pipes for Kelvin 'K' Series

[NB Alnwick]

We suffered a fuel injection pipe failure whilst en-route from Cropredy to Crick and had to complete the journey on two cylinders. The pipe that failed was one that we had previously repaired with silver solder and it probably needs replacing rather than repairing again.

 

Does anyone here know of a reliable source for getting 1/4" fuel injection pipes made with the Kelvin style brazed on cone pieces and the correct coupling nuts?

[carlt]

We suffered a fuel injection pipe failure whilst en-route from Cropredy to Crick and had to complete the journey on two cylinders. The pipe that failed was one that we had previously repaired with silver solder and it probably needs replacing rather than repairing again.

 

Does anyone here know of a reliable source for getting 1/4" fuel injection pipes made with the Kelvin style brazed on cone pieces and the correct coupling nuts?

I've never known Northampton Diesels fail anyone yet:-

 

Contact: Paul Horrocks

FASTLINE GROUP LTD (NORTHAMPTON DIESELS)

St James Mill Industrial Estate

Northampton

Northamptonshire

NN5 5JF

Tel: 01604 755321

Fax: 01604 587180

E-mail: ndes@fastlinefactors.com

[Djuwenda]

bit of a long shot but...

 

Dave who runs Grathams Bridge Boat services has a Kelvin in his engine room and he is quite good at sourcing spares...

[Timleech]

Do you want the brazed nipples for appearance, or because you believe they're better?

I've had pipes made up for T series Kelvins with Rolls-Royce nuts and conventional nipples, which seem entirely satisfactory. Daltons in Horwich (Bolton, Lancs), used to make pipework for Gardners.

I believe pipes currently supplied by Kelvins (British Polar) are conventional, although the price might make you expect otherwise

I expect the nuts are standard thread (14mm?)

I think you're unlikely to find anywhere that can supply the brazed nipples from stock, unless one of the Kelvin specialists has had some made.

 

HTH

Tim

[NB Alnwick]

Thank you for the helpful response received here and in PMs.

 

I have asked Dick Goble to make up a new centre pipe to the original design - this will be expensive but will get us home from Crick!

 

In the longer term I am considering the option of replacing all the old pipes with new ones using standard 6mm high pressure steel tube with brass olives and steel coupling nuts. The coupling nuts will be something of a problem and any advice about sources of pipe, olives and nuts would be gratefully appreciated.

 

The sketch below shows the original design (from the Kelvin parts list) the coupling nut at the pump end has a standard 14mm thread (C.A.V./Bosch Pump) but the coupling nut at the injector end is 9/16 BSF (16 TPI) - the pipes are 40mm (16") long.

 

[Sir Nibble]

This might be the right place to point out the desirability of regularly annealing copper injection pipes.

Go on someone, point out the desirability of regularly annealing copper injection pipes.

[dave moore]

Hi Alnwick

I had a similar pipe failure on my J3 recently. Norton Canes boatbuilders can make new pipes and can silver solder the original connectors on to them,as long as you can supply the originals as patterns. Dick Goble is absolutely100% reliable and a golden asset with matters Kelvin. Any fuel injection specialist can supply the correct pipe - 6mm O/D with a 2mm bore. If I can be of help, the emailis davemoore4@tinyworld.co.uk

Dave Moore

[denboy]

This might be the right place to point out the desirability of regularly annealing copper injection pipes.

Go on someone, point out the desirability of regularly annealing copper injection pipes.

 

go on then explain what this is please

[NB Alnwick]

go on then explain what this is please

 

The reference to copper is misleading - high pressure fuel injection pipes are made of thick wall steel tube.

 

Nevertheless, it is true that copper will harden and become brittle as a result of being worked - even the vibration of the engine will, in time, cause copper to 'work harden'.

 

To prevent copper from becoming hard and brittle it is 'annealed' - this is a process whereby the copper is heated until almost red hot (cherry red) and then cooled quickly by immersion in water.

 

Once annealed the copper will again be workable and will be easy to shape and form without cracking.