jeb Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Hi Following on from the recent rust killer thread,I have just taken delivery of 2 litres of Fertan. Enclosed in the box was a slip which simply states that if anyone would like a free sample of Fertan rust converter contact them by, E.Mail info@fertan.co.uk Phone 02380 45600 Fax 01903 539595 and quote ' sample code 306' Have not used it yet so cannot make any comment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Speight Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 Hi Following on from the recent rust killer thread,I have just taken delivery of 2 litres of Fertan. Enclosed in the box was a slip which simply states that if anyone would like a free sample of Fertan rust converter contact them by, E.Mail info@fertan.co.uk Phone 02380 45600 Fax 01903 539595 and quote ' sample code 306' Have not used it yet so cannot make any comment Fertan is brilliant I`m sure. However we may have had a problem in the past because it didn`t adhere well enough to the clean metal either side of the bit that actually needed treatment. So I would suggest that it`s fine anywhere but where you may want to mask for writing or whatever - in which places be sure to thoroughly abraid it where it spreads beyond the ex-rust - or make sure you get none of it on the bits that aren`t rusty in the first place. That said they are a small company who`ve stuck it out for years , and as many of us know it ain`t that easy sometimes - so giving them support is no bad thing and it`s a good product. Cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHutch Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Might have to get onto that. - Something tells be we're going to need some when we have a go at the underside of the coal bunker! Thanks. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Fertan is brilliant I`m sure. However we may have had a problem in the past because it didn`t adhere well enough to the clean metal either side of the bit that actually needed treatment. So I would suggest that it`s fine anywhere but where you may want to mask for writing or whatever - in which places be sure to thoroughly abraid it where it spreads beyond the ex-rust - or make sure you get none of it on the bits that aren`t rusty in the first place. That said they are a small company who`ve stuck it out for years , and as many of us know it ain`t that easy sometimes - so giving them support is no bad thing and it`s a good product.Cheers Phil In general, if my decks need repainting because of small areas of wear & rust, am I better off using Vactan, Fertan (or some other rust treatment), or a wire brush attachment on a drill on the affected areas and then red oxide primer before repainting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Speight Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 (edited) In general, if my decks need repainting because of small areas of wear & rust, am I better off using Vactan, Fertan (or some other rust treatment), or a wire brush attachment on a drill on the affected areas and then red oxide primer before repainting? Any decent rust converter will help ( including ours!) once you`ve got rid of as much of the rust as possible. Get rid of all of it using the method you suggest and you no longer have a problem . No rust at all is better than a small amount that`s been treated every time. We always try very hard to remove it completely. Red-oxide is a generic name ( even just a colour description ). What you want is a high build zinc rich primer - wether it`s called red oxide or not is irrelevant ,as is the colour. Ours for instance is grey.Follow that with whatever finish suits - but again, if it`s "red-oxide" be sure it`s a finish and not a primer. Cheers Phil Edited April 10, 2007 by Phil Speight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 10, 2007 Report Share Posted April 10, 2007 (edited) Any decent rust converter will help ( including ours!) once you`ve got rid of as much of the rust as possible. Get rid of all of it using the method you suggest and you no longer have a problem . No rust at all is better than a small amount that`s been treated every time. We always try very hard to remove it completely.Red-oxide is a generic name ( even just a colour description ). What you want is a high build zinc rich primer - wether it`s called red oxide or not is irrelevant ,as is the colour. Ours for instance is grey.Follow that with whatever finish suits - but again, if it`s "red-oxide" be sure it`s a finish and not a primer. Cheers Phil I used a 65mm wire brush cup attachment on an angle gringer today to clean up the bow deck. I got all of the flaking paint & rust off but I had to leave some of the existing deck paint which seemed firmly stuck on, as it was too much work to get the whole deck back to bare metal. I put a first coat of Teamac Duracote Red Oxide which I thinned with a little white spirit but I found it didn't go on quite as well as I'd expected. I got a lot of dots where it looked like the paint had reacted with the bare metal. Not sure how I could have prepared the surface any better? Perhaps I should have wiped it down with white spirit first? Edited April 10, 2007 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now