Overpainting Jenolite

[gary955]

I'm repainting my cratch and rear deck. I took the rear deck down to bare steel before applying two coats of primer. Waiting for a rain free day for the topcoat.

The cratch deck I have not taken to bare steel but have rubbed it down well to provide a key and abraded off any rust from the (very numerous) pits and scratches. I then painted the whole deck with Jenolite as this seemed the best way to make sure that every little pit was treated. after an hour or so I towelled off the Jenolite from the paintwork and packed up for the night hoping that the deck would be dry in the morning.

this morning the deck looks dry but has a slightly greasy feel to it. I guess jenolite doesn't evaporate, although it hasn't attacked the paint.

Is it OK to overpaint this film with zinc primer? if not, how should I remove it?

[bizzard]

I'm repainting my cratch and rear deck. I took the rear deck down to bare steel before applying two coats of primer. Waiting for a rain free day for the topcoat.

The cratch deck I have not taken to bare steel but have rubbed it down well to provide a key and abraded off any rust from the (very numerous) pits and scratches. I then painted the whole deck with Jenolite as this seemed the best way to make sure that every little pit was treated. after an hour or so I towelled off the Jenolite from the paintwork and packed up for the night hoping that the deck would be dry in the morning.

this morning the deck looks dry but has a slightly greasy feel to it. I guess jenolite doesn't evaporate, although it hasn't attacked the paint.

Is it OK to overpaint this film with zinc primer? if not, how should I remove it?

I use the gel Jenolite a lot. It really needs to be put on the rust only not bare steel which I reckon is your problem. The rust absorbs it so it dries properly. Instructions say that the first application should be left for about 15mins then apply a further of thin Jenolite and WIPE DRY IMMEDIATELY, when dry 30mins or more surface is ready for priming. I've always done it like that and had good results. I also usually use zinc phosphate primer. I guess it hasn't dried on the bare steel, maybe it will if you leave it long enough. A light wipe over with say cellulose thinners or petrol should clean it up and dry it if need be.

 

EDT. If you used the old liquid Jenolite the instructions are different. If I remember correctly, it has to be sponged off with water.

Edited August 5, 2015 by bizzard

[Phil Ambrose]

This doesn't help the OP but I use "Aquasteel" which is Phosphoric Acid in a Latex carrier which is white when it goes on so showing you where it has been applied. Should always leave a light colouring of rust which gives it something to work on, once the rust has been converted it turns black. The latex dries clear and provides a very good undercoat/primer which you can then paint with undercoat and topcoat of your choice.

Phil

[gary955]

Thanks chaps

Although it's not sunny, the warmth under the cratch cover is starting to dry it, and it's going from greasy to tacky.

I've given it a wipe over with a rag soaked in white spirit and I'm going to prime it this afternoon.

On another note. The rear deck which received it's second coat of primer yesterday, started to pick up and peel when I started to key it for it's top coat! I noticed that my jeans were leaving a weave print on it when I knelt on it, so it's clearly not quite dry after about 20hrs!

[Phil Ambrose]

Thanks chaps

Although it's not sunny, the warmth under the cratch cover is starting to dry it, and it's going from greasy to tacky.

I've given it a wipe over with a rag soaked in white spirit and I'm going to prime it this afternoon.

On another note. The rear deck which received it's second coat of primer yesterday, started to pick up and peel when I started to key it for it's top coat! I noticed that my jeans were leaving a weave print on it when I knelt on it, so it's clearly not quite dry after about 20hrs!

Aquasteel.

Phil