Iskra IA 1069 Alternator

[Mick and Maggie]

hello all.

 

I recently had a problem with our old 70amp domestic alternator and beta controller. The alternator burnt out and the controller was also damaged. I have obtained an Iskra IA1069 100a alternator by way of a replacement. I understand that I will have to tidy up and remove the old Beta Controller and its associated wiring. Could anyone supply information on the correct wiring configuration to use the Iskra alternator without the need for the beta controller.

 

I have had a word with an auto electrician about connecting the system. He like me seems to be a bit confused about the role of all the connections in the beta engine manual. The previous alternator was modified by Beta to use their controller. I would be happier to get rid of the beta controller as it has a poor reputation with other boaters.

 

The separate engine alternator for the starter battery is working fine.

 

Regards

 

Mick

[RobinJ]

I recently had a problem with our old 70amp domestic alternator and beta controller. The alternator burnt out and the controller was also damaged. I have obtained an Iskra IA1069 100a alternator by way of a replacement. I understand that I will have to tidy up and remove the old Beta Controller and its associated wiring. Could anyone supply information on the correct wiring configuration to use the Iskra alternator without the need for the beta controller.

Would not the simplest thing to do - be wire it up straight to the domestic batteries, with a separate warning light if required, so its own regulator does the job?

[Mick and Maggie]

Would not the simplest thing to do - be wire it up straight to the domestic batteries, with a separate warning light if required, so its own regulator does the job?

 

I agree that that is the best way forward. However, I don't have any definite connection info on the Iskra.

 

But I would imagine that the following would be the correct connections to use.

 

B+ To the domestic batteries via an isolation switch.

 

D+ is for the warming light and must be connected via a warning bulb and the ignition switch to the Battery+ I think that without D+ connected the alternator will not charge.

 

W is a connection for engine rev counter. I have swapped the beta pulley wheel over as the Iskra was supplied with a smaller pulley wheel.

 

Ground. This is usually done through the alternator mounting. I understand that some alternators require a separate connection if mounted on isolation bushes.

 

B- ?

 

I just need to know that my assumptions are correct as I don't want to risk damaging a £200 alternator!!!

 

 

Regards

 

Mick

[by'eck]

I agree that that is the best way forward. However, I don't have any definite connection info on the Iskra.

 

But I would imagine that the following would be the correct connections to use.

 

B+ To the domestic batteries via an isolation switch.

 

D+ is for the warming light and must be connected via a warning bulb and the ignition switch to the Battery+ I think that without D+ connected the alternator will not charge.

 

W is a connection for engine rev counter. I have swapped the beta pulley wheel over as the Iskra was supplied with a smaller pulley wheel.

 

Ground. This is usually done through the alternator mounting. I understand that some alternators require a separate connection if mounted on isolation bushes.

 

B- ?

 

I just need to know that my assumptions are correct as I don't want to risk damaging a £200 alternator!!!

 

 

Regards

 

Mick

 

Yes that sounds fine. The alternators B- terminal would go directly to battery negative (unless you have a current shunt in that circuit).

 

Since a spinning alternator must have a battery load, make sure the battery isolator is closed or wire B+ to battery positive directly. You may wish to fuse this feed if its long.

 

Use 35mm² cable for both alternator to battery connections.

[trackman]

I've just had a similar problem with the alternator and Beta alternator controller on my engine. Ours has only the one alternator but the basics will be the same.

I have removed the old controller and its entire wiring harness as the new alternator is using its own controller. The only complication seemed to be the wire to the fuel solenoid, but disconnecting that has done no harm. I wasn't sure whether this lead had some purpose other than to do with the old controller but apparently it didn't.

I now have just the four connections to the new alternator. These are the B+ and B- battery connections, the D+ to the warning light and the W for the rev counter. The D+ also supplies the excitation voltage to initiate charging, as you say.

If yours is the alternator for your domestic bank, I'm not sure you need the W connection on it, I assume the starter alternator will supply that requirement.

[Biggles]

Letrika are the UK importers. I have had occasion to contact their Tech Dept. Very willing to help.

[Mick and Maggie]

Thanks to everyone for their input.

 

Wired the new bit of kit in circuit and did a second check before going live. So Now have a 100amp capability rather than 70amp. Just purchased a Sterling A2B unit. So thats the next project.

 

Thanks again Mick