Basic woodwork question

[Graham Bowers]

Sorry if this is a bit basic but if you don't ask.............

I have 40 metres of rectangular section sapele that I need to plane such that it has a sloping top surface so the water runs off it when it is installed as rubbing strake (2 thicknesses btw). The timber merchant I bought it from couldn't do that.

I could hand plane it, but is there a power tool I could rent or buy that I could jig up so the section is consistent?

Cheers

Graham

[Richard Bustens]

Graham

I dont quite understand what you are trying to do , but i think you have some wood that is 2x4 and want to slope it to 2 on one edge and 1 1/2 on the other side if so run it through a saw table with the blade set on a angle 4'' is the most you will be able to raise the blade though so if it is more than 4x2 that will not work

Edited July 29, 2006 by Richard Bustens

[david and julie]

I not exactly sure what you mean but wouldn't a table saw set at a angle do this?

 

Can you put the cut against the hull to save sanding the blade marks?

 

Another alternative, which would give a better finish, may be a router.

 

We must of posted together Richard.

 

Using Richrds 4x2 example, could the cut be on the 2 inch part against the hull? this would still give you an angle but would conceal the cut and also be much easier to do.

Edited July 29, 2006 by david and julie

[Graham Bowers]

Graham

I dont quite understand what you are trying to do , but i think you have some wood that is 2x4 and want to slope it to 2 on one edge and 1 1/2 on the other side if so run it through a saw table with the blade set on a angle 4'' is the most you will be able to raise the blade though so if it is more than 4x2 that will not work

Richard, D&J

I think you've pretty much worked out what I'm trying to do. My start dimensions are actually 36mm by 12mm rectangular.

I want to end up with 12mm thick, 36mm on one side and around 32mm on the other for the wood next to the hull, then 32mm and 28mm on the second thickness.

I guess I could saw then improve the surface finish by sanding but would prefer a one shot process that gave a smooth finish.

I've no experience of routers so am not sure how or if one would be suitable. I should probably go to a toolshop.

Cheers

Graham

[david and julie]

Graham, you may be better off going to a local woodworkers shop and asking them to do this on a spindle moulder. You will end up needing minimum finishing work and it won't be that expensive.

[Graham Bowers]

Graham, you may be better off going to a local woodworkers shop and asking them to do this on a spindle moulder. You will end up needing minimum finishing work and it won't be that expensive.

Good idea. This morning I hadn't even heard of a spindle moulder and now I can spell it :-))

I'll try next week.

Cheers

Graham

[Richard Bustens]

I would still do it on the saw and perhaps a pass on the planer, i certainly would not set up the S/Molder for that. and anyway i dont have a straight cutter that size . it should only need a sanding, off the blade of the saw.

 

Where abouts in the country are you anyware near me?

[Graham Bowers]

I would still do it on the saw and perhaps a pass on the planer, i certainly would not set up the S/Molder for that. and anyway i dont have a straight cutter that size . it should only need a sanding, off the blade of the saw.

 

Where abouts in the country are you anyware near me?

Richard

I live near Ashby de la Zouch and moor at Shardlow.

Thanks for comments. If I went for a saw, what type would be suitable please - are we talking a band saw or a table type circular saw? Also, how many teeth per inch?

I'm much more familiar with working with metal!

Cheers

Graham

[Moley]

Hi Graham

 

If the stock is only 12mm thick, then this should be quite an easy job.

 

Can you not sandwich the two thickneses together before cutting the angle, or do you need to bend around curves (in which case ignore the above) ?

 

Personally, I'd do this on a table saw, not sure if you could hire one, is it worth buying for this one job or would it be used in the future?

 

B&Q and such places have fairly cheap table saws (under the ton) which would do the job, simply angle the blade to 71.5 degrees, then a quick pass with a hand or power plane would finish it off. Any blade would do the job, you'd probably be looking at 10 inch, 30 teeth.

 

Note, from experience, table saws bite. Always use push sticks.

[carlt]

Hi Graham

 

If the stock is only 12mm thick, then this should be quite an easy job.

 

Can you not sandwich the two thickneses together before cutting the angle, or do you need to bend around curves (in which case ignore the above) ?

 

Personally, I'd do this on a table saw, not sure if you could hire one, is it worth buying for this one job or would it be used in the future?

 

B&Q and such places have fairly cheap table saws (under the ton) which would do the job, simply angle the blade to 71.5 degrees, then a quick pass with a hand or power plane would finish it off. Any blade would do the job, you'd probably be looking at 10 inch, 30 teeth.

 

Note, from experience, table saws bite. Always use push sticks.

Most timber merchants would run your wood through their planer/thicknesser set at the right angle for a modest fee. I would run it through the planer anyway after shaping it on the saw because getting sawcut marks out with a hand sander inevitably leads to a wavy surface and an achy arm.

[Graham Bowers]

Most timber merchants would run your wood through their planer/thicknesser set at the right angle for a modest fee. I would run it through the planer anyway after shaping it on the saw because getting sawcut marks out with a hand sander inevitably leads to a wavy surface and an achy arm.

I too would have thought the timber merchant could have done this but I did ask and got a no from two merchants. Having said that, the one I went with did take a month from date of order to collecting the timber so I'll be looking for a better supplier in future. If I had had a better idea of the possibilities I could have asked from a more informed position. One lives and learns :-))

Cheers

Graham

[Cafnod]

Hi Graham, I feel the consensus opinion of a table saw is the one to go for. I use Bradfords builders merchants for most of my timber as it is reasonably priced, they deliver for free for orders over £100 and the local one has someone who knows about hardwood, softwood and machining.

My local Jewsons used to hire a table saw, dont know if they still do.

a spindle moulder would give a one shot good finish, it is how most mouldings are turned out.

You COULD make up an angled jig for a router and pass the work through that, you could also probably make a jig for a good hand held electric planer.

As Ade said if you do use a circular saw yourself make sure you use pushsticks and treat the machine with the greatest of respect.

good luck with whatever method you use.

[Graham Bowers]

Hi Graham

 

If the stock is only 12mm thick, then this should be quite an easy job.

 

Can you not sandwich the two thickneses together before cutting the angle, or do you need to bend around curves (in which case ignore the above) ?

 

Personally, I'd do this on a table saw, not sure if you could hire one, is it worth buying for this one job or would it be used in the future?

 

B&Q and such places have fairly cheap table saws (under the ton) which would do the job, simply angle the blade to 71.5 degrees, then a quick pass with a hand or power plane would finish it off. Any blade would do the job, you'd probably be looking at 10 inch, 30 teeth.

 

Note, from experience, table saws bite. Always use push sticks.

Hi Moley

A table saw is on my list of wants anyway so now may be the time. I do have more work to do on the boat and want to tackle some more involved jobs to test if my idea of a future NB fitout will suit me. Thanks for the safety tip - I am attached to my digits and hope to keep it that way.

I've read your blog btw and admire your tenacity. You have a nice looking boat! The idea of a restoration appeals as I have a soft spot for "vintage" machines, but a new sailaway would seem sooo much easier and hopefully more of a known quantity.

Cheers

Graham

[ChrisPy]

I bought a Nutool hand held electric planer from Makro for £7. It will quickly rip off the triangular section - and take less time than carrying the timber to a woodwork shop.