Graham Bowers

Pleased you got sorted. I'm not a "regular" however followed up as I got an email. alert.

I saw the bump on the Willington gauge prediction and rather hoped it was a data error. It didn't seem to be reflected in downstream station predictions.

Thanks. I'll pop along in the morning and check how things are. It's come up 45 Cm since I was there yesterday. Thanks. Yep, the floodgates were closed yesterday. My lines are slack so hopefully all is OK.

I didn't do anything, it was just there. I see that not all locations have a predicted level though.

I moor between Derwent Lock and the flood lock at Shardlow, so Crockers. I see the forecast level of the Trent at Shardlow is to exceed the existing record. I called yesterday to slacken the ropes however was wondering at what Trent Shardlow level the river backflows over the lock and raises the level in the pound please? Thanks

I've had a 25 foot long 6 foot 10 inch beam GRP cruiser for over 10 years, a Wavey Rider Elite - not many around. Here is a bit about it that may prompt some things to think about. We use it for leisure only, up to a couple of weeks spring to autumn. I do jobs in the winter sometimes and it can be cold unless the heating is on. The hull was sound, however it's been rewired, re-plumbed and had a new gas system. Despite having a boat safety certificate, the gas system had lots of un-necessary straight connections and they had been applied with red jointing compound. The wiring was a rat's nest of bell-wire. The simple water pump was powered through a switch that had to be held on to get cold water, i.e. not a pressurised system. Engine is a 10 HP Honda 4 stroke outboard that has can produce 10 Amps DC at nominal 12V for battery charging. It takes 4 hours daily running the keep the batteries charged when we are out cruising . (2 leisure, 1 engine start). I don't run the engine for charging alone if we are moored up and on-board for days. I usually use a Honda suitcase generator in that case for an hour or so a day. The fridge is the biggest drain on the batteries. Petrol is a bit of a pest however I use the internet to find petrol stations. I have a collapsible sack barrow. Spare petrol is stored in the outboard "compartment" so any petrol vapour can drain overboard. It's a no-no to store it where vapours could end up in the bilge, for example, and potentially ignite. Heating is a propex, room sealed. It's quite noisy however doesn't get left on at night when we are in bed as the gas is turned off at night. I'm in the process of installing Celotex thermal insulation as part of a running re-fit so the propex doesn't have to run as much. I'm not sure how many cruisers are insulated however it's worth asking the question for any boats you consider. Hot and cold water. A Shurflo pump and accumulator feed a cold tap and a Morco instantaneous water heater that in turn feeds a hot tap and a shower. Refrigeration is a 12 Volt Shoreline coolbox which has a conventional fridge compressor, so not absorption or peltier technologies; they don't seem to be available any more, although there seem to be competitive offerings. I have had a couple of rainwater water leaks where seals on holes in the roof for rails had failed. Easy to fix, once you find the source. Trouble is, the water can appear some distance from where it gained entry. I replaced the sliding window fabric runners with flocked rubber as the woven tape runners at the bottom had rotted. But it's a bit thick so the windows take some moving. I have something else to try. Handling in wind can be interesting however I wouldn't let that put you off. Just stay moored if it's bad. Hope this helps.

Thanks for replies. I think speaking to the suppliers is the necessary next step.

As a replacement for the rotted lower fabric U section runners I tried flocked rubber channel, however it is thicker than the fabric it replaced, so the windows are stuck. Anybody know if the fabric channel is still available please as my searching has not been successful?

I phoned Morco today and they stated the spare jet is the same as the installed jet. And the reason was simply that they had an over-supply of that part. It seems a bit of an odd thing to do, but I'm going to accept it at face value.

The appliance is also marked up that it is specified for propane at 37 mb. I re-read the manual and the spare jet label and there was nothing to suggest it was for conversion to methane. The pilot flame became progressively worse so I’m satisfied a blockage was the cause. However for completeness I will check with Morco why a spare jet was supplied. The jets do have markings however I need a magnifying glass to read them.

I put in the spare jet and the pilot flame now bathes the thermocouple. It fires up and operates perfectly. Thanks for all assistance received. Graham

OK. Thanks for your input.

Thanks Mike. Interestingly the unit came with a small plastic bag containing a brass part and fibre washer, labelled "Spare pilot injector part code MP0110". It looks like the part at the base of the pilot assembly. Not sure if this is usual for Morco - it seemed to be a sort of "expect trouble" statement.

Thanks gents. The pilot flame does not play on the flame failure probe (thermocouple) and MtB is on the money with the distance of about 1/4 inch. To the right of the pilot burner there is damage to the sheet metal shroud that was there as received. This is a brand new unit so I wonder if the unit has had a knock in transit that's resulted in that visible damage and also displaced those pilot parts. If so it must have been quite a knock as the adjacent parts that could have hit it are quite a way from the sheet metal, so I'd concluded that part was damaged during the manufacturing process and allowed to flow through the system. I'd have expected it to have been tested during manufacture and the thermocouple tip was blued, indicating it has felt heat. I'll let you know how I get on.

The test condition is with the sink hot water tap fully open and I've tested the water pressure in that condition and it's over the low limit of 0.2 Bar. Since the system is operating at full flow, I'm not sure how I'd increase the water pressure. I have, however, operated the system by opening the hot tap in 10 second bursts and then allowing the pump to re-pressurise the accumulator. It still cuts out. Also, I forgot to say before, but I measured the volume pumped in the 20 seconds it took to trip out, and it was just over 2 litres, so the average flow rate is over 6 litres a minute, which is within spec. All that smokey stuff in the second video is indeed smoke, from a smoke match, as I did a flue spill test. Trouble is I'm not sure how to interpret the result. Thanks for commenting.