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Solar Panels Again


Mat B

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I am thinking of buying 2 of these panels at 65p/W

 

And one of these mppt controllers

 

Costing the controller in, it works out at about 88p/W

 

Has anybody used either of these bits of kit?

 

Is there an easier/cheaper way to do it?

 

Thanks, m@

 

To be honest that's a pretty good price all in, I would reckon that's hard to beat anywhere. Solar panels could well come down in price again but now were talking pence rather than pounds, and their unlikely to be under 50p per watt anyway as the cost of frame and glass isn't likely to fall like the cells themselves. Still you never know, mass production can make things very cheap.

 

That controller looks pretty reasonable also. Only a 1 year warranty but at that price you wouldn't expect more.

 

 

 

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To be honest that's a pretty good price all in, I would reckon that's hard to beat anywhere. Solar panels could well come down in price again but now were talking pence rather than pounds, and their unlikely to be under 50p per watt anyway as the cost of frame and glass isn't likely to fall like the cells themselves. Still you never know, mass production can make things very cheap.

 

That controller looks pretty reasonable also. Only a 1 year warranty but at that price you wouldn't expect more.

 

Looking round at some of the prices recently I think they're getting not far from the shipping costs. I can't see see them getting much cheaper unless they can also make them much lighter.

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As a matter of interest, is there a difference in qualities of the protective glass?

 

Obviously they are not bullet proof but is there a way of determining how tough the glass is? Say from the occasional small stone lobbing oiks?

Or is there just a standard rating?

 

Thanks,

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In my experience they're either going to throw nothing or a half house brick so does it make much difference?

 

 

Good point. If they get hit with something like half a brick is that likely to cause localised impact damage or would it write off the panel?

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Good point. If they get hit with something like half a brick is that likely to cause localised impact damage or would it write off the panel?

 

I don't know I don't go through Kidsgrove anymore.

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Just watch the specs. It says it can handle 40 amps and 1000 watts but that is at 48 volts not at 12 v.

(which is very odd)

 

At 12 v it can only do 40 amps and 480 watts.

 

So presumably, the output components can handle max 40A??, as I am planning just under 400W of panel, should be Ok I think.

 

The manufacturer's website does not give any further info.

 

Thanks for the replies everybody.

 

m@

 

The controller specs say minimum input voltage 40V

 

 

but the panel specs say Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp) 36.94V

 

Good point, the 2 panels will be in series giving a mppt point at 2 x 36.94V = 74V

Am I right Gibbo????

 

m@

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No mention on the spec sheet of the technology employed, or the use of blocking diodes, but a lot about the financial advantages and their warranty arrangements...

 

Blocking diodes improve the performance when there may be shadowing of part of a panel, and can make it easier to connect panels in series on the long narrow layouts that are typical on narrowboats...

The technology employed gives an indication of the "performance gradient" you might expect under different combinations of light and temperature.

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No mention on the spec sheet of the technology employed, or the use of blocking diodes, but a lot about the financial advantages and their warranty arrangements...

 

 

 

 

Are you talking about the panels or the controller?

 

 

If its the panels I can clearly see the technology employed, its Monocrystalline.

 

Oh & blocking diodes are not used to improve shade performance. Thats the job of bypass diodes. Blocking diodes are to stop the back feeding to the array that could happen at night on battery systems, which is normally now done by the controller. They are also used to isolate multipul strings on a single input controller.

Edited by Justme
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