Rubber Lubricant

[Denis R]

I'm fettling a Francis light to go on the front of my new tug and would like to know if there's anything I can use to help preserve the rubber seal around the glass - to prevent it ageing and flaking and also make it easier to slide into its housing and then not stick. Any ideas?

[Gary Peacock]

I'm fettling a Francis light to go on the front of my new tug and would like to know if there's anything I can use to help preserve the rubber seal around the glass - to prevent it ageing and flaking and also make it easier to slide into its housing and then not stick. Any ideas?

 

They used to use glycerin in days gone by to clean and protect rubber window seals, I don't know where you would get it from these days.

[Moley]

They used to use glycerin .... I don't know where you would get it from these days.

 

Boots, or your local Chemist.

[DHutch]

You can get special rubber lubricats in varous forms (powder, liquid, grease, spray)

 

I have some grease-like rubber lubricant i got of my uncal, i'd tell you the brand name, but i just got a bit out of his tin in a film canister. Or aleast, i dont thing its made by kodak!

- You can also get the stuff that they use on the beading of tyres when puting then onto the wheel.

- Or fairy liquid if its just short-term you want.

 

Have a look on google maybe?

 

 

Daniel

[Sir Nibble]

Try having a word with a windscreen replacement specialist, there are silicon sprays suitable for what you want.

[AndyM]

I'm fettling a Francis light to go on the front of my new tug and would like to know if there's anything I can use to help preserve the rubber seal around the glass - to prevent it ageing and flaking and also make it easier to slide into its housing and then not stick. Any ideas?

 

I've heard Cod Liver Oil is good for keeping rubber in good condition, never tried it myself mind!

[Guest st170dw]

I've heard Cod Liver Oil is good for keeping rubber in good condition, never tried it myself mind!

 

When I was a kid I think it was castor oil we used for rubber band model aircraft.

[John Orentas]

Denis.

 

The gaskets that Francis Searchlights used to us were Butyl rubber, they lasted 20 or more years in constant harsh conditions. I don't think there are any substances which will preserve it in any way but to make fitting into the bezel easier silicone grease is the best stuff to use.

 

It happens I was employed by the company for ten years or so, ended up as technical manager, I have in the past, and still do occasionally restore searchlights usually to a polished brass condition though with the exception of the Fire Engine models they were manufactured with a painted finish. If you let me have details of your light including the diameter I can tell you something about it's origins and performance, I may even have a few spares.

[timboharticus]

Whilst Fairy Liqiud etc. is often used to aid fitting tyres etc. I don't think it's good for the rubber or metal.

 

The best stuff is silicon based. We use a silicon grease in scuba diving for lubricating o rings .

[Denis R]

Thanks for your advice everyone. I've actually used a smear of glycerin to aid its refitting - seemed to do the trick. John it's a CFM11 number S53/140. Diameter is 11" overall. The switch is obviously not original and it appears to have been professionally converted to take a 12V halogen vehicle lamp. It works OK, but the focus is a bit off. The beam is not a good circle. I think the small reflector is tarnished a bit and also not central on the lamp axis. I've had a go at adjusting it with a little success, but it's still not perfect. Adjusting the focus doesn't seem to pull it into a completely 'clean' beam.

The body is generally a bit worn but none the worse for it. A good going over with Autosol has improved it no end, but the chrome plating is somewhat pitted. Has an air of provenence about it though.

[John Orentas]

Thanks for your advice everyone. I've actually used a smear of glycerin to aid its refitting - seemed to do the trick. John it's a CFM11 number S53/140. Diameter is 11" overall. The switch is obviously not original and it appears to have been professionally converted to take a 12V halogen vehicle lamp. It works OK, but the focus is a bit off. The beam is not a good circle. I think the small reflector is tarnished a bit and also not central on the lamp axis. I've had a go at adjusting it with a little success, but it's still not perfect. Adjusting the focus doesn't seem to pull it into a completely 'clean' beam.

The body is generally a bit worn but none the worse for it. A good going over with Autosol has improved it no end, but the chrome plating is somewhat pitted. Has an air of provenence about it though.

 

 

Hi Denis.

 

I don't recognise the model number but as it is chrome plated it is almost certainly a Fire Brigade type, and you are correct they were not fitted with a switch. You will find that the lamp filament is not positioned in the centre of the reflector as it should be, if you can shim things to get a central position you will find you can get a perfect concentric beam pattern, the focus mechanism should slide the lamp-holder assembly forward and backward through the focal point, they do tend to seize up if not used much.

 

You will probably find that the lamp is a 'Photographic' type as used in slide projectors and the like, it does not have a metal cap but two pins 1/4" apart, you can go up to a 100 watt type. The small light shield does not act as a reflector but blocks stray light, it is not critical that it is in the centre but if you adjust the lamp position the sheild will no doubt go with it.

 

Happy birthday.

Edited December 29, 2005 by John Orentas

[Denis R]

Thanks for this John. Probably explains why playing with the small deflector hasn't made an appreciable difference.... The focussing adjustment appears to work, in that the lamp moves in and out when turning the knob. I'll investigate the lamp concentricity next. The unit is from a fire engine and is stamped DAR on the yoke and has the number 9750 engraved on a number of the components - I guess this might have been the appliance number to which it was attached. I've left it at Peter Nicholls' yard today to have the mounting made up and I'll retrieve it and have another play once he's done.

[peasant]

hellerine is a very slippy substance widely used in the electrical industry to allow free movement of rubber