Pre-finished T&G

[blackrose]

Does anyone know a good source of pre-finished (lacquered) T&G interior cladding? I'm looking for something as thin as possible, I think 7.5mm is about the thinnest and it would probably have to be pine as anything else is too pricey.

 

Do they make cladding with a lipped profile rather than a tongue & groove?

 

Edited February 25, 2010 by blackrose

[capnthommo]

Does anyone know a good source of pre-finished (lacquered) T&G interior cladding? I'm looking for something as thin as possible, I think 7.5mm is about the thinnest and it would probably have to be pine as anything else is too pricey.

 

Do they make cladding with a lipped profile rather than a tongue & groove?

 

sorry to say, i suspect that you would have to go to about 15mm to get t&g without the vee groove union, as the thinner stuff tends to be feature cladding. i don't think the volume producers see much of a market for plain board. and i think that to get lapped joins you would have to go to a small joiners shop and get it run off as a special order. the problem with mouldings on something as thin as 8 mm is that there is so little left on either side that the machined pieces are prone to splitting. if you think about it, you are asking the joint to hold with only 4 mm on each side. it might be worth your while ringing round a few local joiners shops and seeing what they reckon. sometimes you can come up with a diamond.

also, the lacquered part, is this essential? that would be likely to add quite a bit to the price, i would say.

sorry to be so negative, but the nature of timber and all that.

good luck though

nigel

[blackrose]

sorry to say, i suspect that you would have to go to about 15mm to get t&g without the vee groove union, as the thinner stuff tends to be feature cladding. i don't think the volume producers see much of a market for plain board. and i think that to get lapped joins you would have to go to a small joiners shop and get it run off as a special order. the problem with mouldings on something as thin as 8 mm is that there is so little left on either side that the machined pieces are prone to splitting. if you think about it, you are asking the joint to hold with only 4 mm on each side. it might be worth your while ringing round a few local joiners shops and seeing what they reckon. sometimes you can come up with a diamond.

also, the lacquered part, is this essential? that would be likely to add quite a bit to the price, i would say.

sorry to be so negative, but the nature of timber and all that.

good luck though

nigel

 

Thanks Nigel,

 

I thought it would be easier to make a lapped profile rather than T&G?

 

I could do the lacquering but when I've seen pre-finished floors it always looks better than the finish I imagine I could get myself.

 

Mike

Edited February 25, 2010 by blackrose

[soldthehouse]

Thanks Nigel,

 

I thought it would be easier to make a lapped profile rather than T&G?

 

I could do the lacquering but when I've seen pre-finished floors it always looks better than the finish I imagine I could get myself.

 

Mike

hello Mike I used to make lapped jointed boards out of mdf for barfitting and have made them in wood but the problem is when they move the joints are exagerated, because a t&g joint will resist curling better and as has been said the bigger machinists are geared up for t&g. You could always get a router and start selling the stuff.....

[capnthommo]

might be worth keeping an eye open for some reclaimed stuff. you can sometimes pick up decent boards if you are lucky. i once got about 30 square metres of old 3/4 t&g from a job i was on and it was really fine quality. well hardened off too, even resists stilettos.

cheers

nigel

[blackrose]

Dropped in B&Q this evening. They have unfinished pine T&G cladding which is only 7.5mm thick. Could it be stained and varnished before it goes up?

Edited February 26, 2010 by blackrose

[soldthehouse]

Dropped in B&Q this evening. They have unfinished pine T&G cladding which is only 7.5mm thick. Could it be stained and varnished before it goes up?

Any staining is best done before fitting because if it shrinks you end up with lighter timber showing

[Grace and Favour]

As has been said above - if you could find some reclaimed timber - and have a workshop cut it to your requirements it may well be better that buying new 8mm pine (which probably won't be straight - and will continue to shrink. . if you can get a hardwood 2nd hand so much the better.

 

With regard to sealing it - I've always found that applying most clear finishes is inevitably better if you use a rubbing cloth instead of a brush - yes - it takes a longer, but the end result is infinitely superior