Lister JP2

[monkeyhanger]

Hi Everyone, A couple of months back I requested info on the best way of heating a calorifier using a vintage engine, specifically a JP2. That is now sorted and working well, so I'd like to say thanks to those who replied and helped. And so to the next problem, or two actually.

 

Number one- when I built my engine 20 years ago, I found that the cast iron, water cooled silencer which sits on the engine block had cracks in the water jacket and leaked. Welding only partly soved the problem, so I had a go with JB Weld epoxy filler. This did the trick, and I've had no problem for a long time. However, the iron has rusted over the years, and foced some of the JB Weld away from the crack, and it now leaks slightly again. I am tempted to clean it up , and have another go with JB Weld, because 20 years is pretty good I reckon, unless someone can recommend a more modern, and perhaps better, alternative. I have to say that the only access to the cracks is from the outside.

 

Problen Number two-- I can't get the cylinder heads off! I've tried levering, tapping with a lump hammer and they won't move. In the book it says"use the engine compression to shift them", but its a hand start engine, and the starting mechanism is fastened to the top of the silencer, which is on my kitchen floor at the moment ( see problem one, above).

I tried feeding some clothes line through the injector hole to sit on top of the piston, and then turn the engine using the flywheel, to try to lift the heads, but the combustion chambers in the heads are small, and won't allow the clothes line in. Does anyone have any bright ideas?

[Timleech]

Hi Everyone, A couple of months back I requested info on the best way of heating a calorifier using a vintage engine, specifically a JP2. That is now sorted and working well, so I'd like to say thanks to those who replied and helped. And so to the next problem, or two actually.

 

Number one- when I built my engine 20 years ago, I found that the cast iron, water cooled silencer which sits on the engine block had cracks in the water jacket and leaked. Welding only partly soved the problem, so I had a go with JB Weld epoxy filler. This did the trick, and I've had no problem for a long time. However, the iron has rusted over the years, and foced some of the JB Weld away from the crack, and it now leaks slightly again. I am tempted to clean it up , and have another go with JB Weld, because 20 years is pretty good I reckon, unless someone can recommend a more modern, and perhaps better, alternative. I have to say that the only access to the cracks is from the outside.

 

Problen Number two-- I can't get the cylinder heads off! I've tried levering, tapping with a lump hammer and they won't move. In the book it says"use the engine compression to shift them", but its a hand start engine, and the starting mechanism is fastened to the top of the silencer, which is on my kitchen floor at the moment ( see problem one, above).

I tried feeding some clothes line through the injector hole to sit on top of the piston, and then turn the engine using the flywheel, to try to lift the heads, but the combustion chambers in the heads are small, and won't allow the clothes line in. Does anyone have any bright ideas?

 

Have you remembered that the pushrod tubes are also head studs?

 

Tim

[monkeyhanger]

Have you remembered that the pushrod tubes are also head studs?

 

Tim

Yes----oops!

[monkeyhanger]

Have you remembered that the pushrod tubes are also head studs?

 

Tim

Hi Tim, thanks for that reminder-I feel a right berk forgetting those tubes! A question as you obviously know these engines--do you happen to know the size of the nuts which hold the push rod tubes, please? I've lost the box spanner I used on them, so I will have to buy a deep socket. The size may be in my manual,but it's on the boat

[Timleech]

Hi Tim, thanks for that reminder-I feel a right berk forgetting those tubes! A question as you obviously know these engines--do you happen to know the size of the nuts which hold the push rod tubes, please? I've lost the box spanner I used on them, so I will have to buy a deep socket. The size may be in my manual,but it's on the boat

 

I can't remember offhand, but a normal socket should do the job. Something around 7/8" Whit. I can check in a day or so, as I've got some work to do on a JP then.

 

Re your casting repair, I've never used JB Weld, but had good results with the likes of Belzona. Proper preparation is critical for a long-lasting job but that sort of repair is always likely to be 'semi-permanent' rather than truly permanent. 20 years is not a bad result

 

If your engine had originally been salt-water cooled, the salt will carry on affecting the iron almost indefinitely. There are ways of neutralising it, there's some stuff on the web somewhere about it though I'll admit I've never seriously got into it.

 

Tim

[martyn 1]

Number one- when I built my engine 20 years ago, I found that the cast iron, water cooled silencer which sits on the engine block had cracks in the water jacket and leaked. Welding only partly soved the problem, so I had a go with JB Weld epoxy filler. This did the trick, and I've had no problem for a long time. However, the iron has rusted over the years, and foced some of the JB Weld away from the crack, and it now leaks slightly again. I am tempted to clean it up , and have another go with JB Weld, because 20 years is pretty good I reckon, unless someone can recommend a more modern, and perhaps better, alternative. I have to say that the only access to the cracks is from the outside.

 

 

If the JB weld has lasted that long then having another go is probably the cheapest option, There are also various specialist welding contractors that can repair them well. Have had that done on blocks, heads etc over the years and all have come back with it virtually impossible to see repair.

 

Also I am currently looking into making the casting patterns for the manifolds (JP2 & 3) and silencer for the JP marines, although probably will not be quick due to other work, I have a couple or JP's in my workshop that are missing manifolds/silencers and one that has them.

 

martyn

[monkeyhanger]

If the JB weld has lasted that long then having another go is probably the cheapest option, There are also various specialist welding contractors that can repair them well. Have had that done on blocks, heads etc over the years and all have come back with it virtually impossible to see repair.

 

Also I am currently looking into making the casting patterns for the manifolds (JP2 & 3) and silencer for the JP marines, although probably will not be quick due to other work, I have a couple or JP's in my workshop that are missing manifolds/silencers and one that has them.

 

martyn

What's the chances of finding a sound silencer for sale? I've not seen any, but there again, I haven't really been looking. Hens teeth comes to mind! Maybe someone out there is using one as a door stop or something similar, you never know!

[monkeyhanger]

I can't remember offhand, but a normal socket should do the job. Something around 7/8" Whit. I can check in a day or so, as I've got some work to do on a JP then.

 

Re your casting repair, I've never used JB Weld, but had good results with the likes of Belzona. Proper preparation is critical for a long-lasting job but that sort of repair is always likely to be 'semi-permanent' rather than truly permanent. 20 years is not a bad result

 

If your engine had originally been salt-water cooled, the salt will carry on affecting the iron almost indefinitely. There are ways of neutralising it, there's some stuff on the web somewhere about it though I'll admit I've never seriously got into it.

 

Tim

Hi Tim,got the heads off today, quite easily in fact.I eventually found my box spanner that I'd used on the push rod tube nuts, and although I couldn't shift them with it, after giving the spanner a bit of a clean up,I could read a feint 32mm stamped on it.After another search, I found a 32mm socket which was too small. A 35mm socket, although too big, did the trick. After a bit of head scratching and discussion with a mate, we reckon that the size socket I need may be 1 inch and 5 -16ths AF. What this is in Whitworth, I don't know. Also, I now remember that when I bought the engine, in pieces, a lot of the nuts and bolts showed signs of being worked on with a hammer and chisel, especially these particular ones, and I had to clean them up on a linisher, so they may be a touch undersize. Anyway, mission accomplished. Also---I phoned Belzona, and a man is coming to look at my silencer, and will possibly do the repair job for me! Thanks for all the advice and help. Much appreciated. Jack

[Timleech]

Hi Tim,got the heads off today, quite easily in fact.I eventually found my box spanner that I'd used on the push rod tube nuts, and although I couldn't shift them with it, after giving the spanner a bit of a clean up,I could read a feint 32mm stamped on it.After another search, I found a 32mm socket which was too small. A 35mm socket, although too big, did the trick. After a bit of head scratching and discussion with a mate, we reckon that the size socket I need may be 1 inch and 5 -16ths AF. What this is in Whitworth, I don't know. Also, I now remember that when I bought the engine, in pieces, a lot of the nuts and bolts showed signs of being worked on with a hammer and chisel, especially these particular ones, and I had to clean them up on a linisher, so they may be a touch undersize. Anyway, mission accomplished. Also---I phoned Belzona, and a man is coming to look at my silencer, and will possibly do the repair job for me! Thanks for all the advice and help. Much appreciated. Jack

 

Jack

Did you get the email I sent you this morning, with this link:-

 

http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/whitworth.htm

 

(scroll to the bottom)

 

That shows that the size you really needed was 3/4" Whit, 7/8" BS, which is a shade over 33mm a/f

 

Glad you got it done

 

Tim

[monkeyhanger]

Jack

Did you get the email I sent you this morning, with this link:-

 

http://www.baconsdozen.co.uk/tools/whitworth.htm

 

(scroll to the bottom)

 

That shows that the size you really needed was 3/4" Whit, 7/8" BS, which is a shade over 33mm a/f

 

Glad you got it done

 

Tim

I didn't get the email you sent, but it may be somewhere on the site I haven't checked yet, as I'm still trying to get to grips with this computering malarky. The info in the link was excellent, just what I needed! Thanks very much, again. Jack