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Cement Flex for a steel water tank??


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Hi there. I am researching (via past forums) how to 'service' my integral steel water tank this summer. He’s a 2005 boat and the inspection hatch never been lifted yet. I called the company who I purchased my boat from to check what they had used on the inside of the tank and I was advised that it was a product called "cement flex”.

 

I have searched for hours on line and to no avail, and of course LVP boats (who built it) don’t exist anymore so I cannot acquire some through them.

 

I mentioned to the technical guy at the company I purchased the boat from if I could not just strip out the cement flex and replace it with a more available alternative. He said the work involved to get it off would be a nightmare and only to try that approach as a very last ditch attempt.

 

So, to that end..... Has anyone out there heard of/know where to purchase the illusive "Cement flex"? And also has anyone used it before in their water tank? And if so.....any 'top tips' on the preparation and application?

 

Thank You.

 

Matt. NB WALT

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Thank You for the reply.

 

After another call to the builder they assure me it is cement flex. :-(

 

I think I may just have to keep searching..... Either that or get in and rip it all out and use a more availible alternative...ooooo dear :-)

 

I'm now looking also at flexible bags.

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Thank You for the reply.

 

After another call to the builder they assure me it is cement flex. :-(

 

I think I may just have to keep searching..... Either that or get in and rip it all out and use a more availible alternative...ooooo dear :-)

 

I'm now looking also at flexible bags.

Why don't you ask the builder if they can supply you some?

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On my old boat the water tank was described to me as needing a Cement Wash every few years.....I never needed to do this during my time with the boat but this is a brief method

 

Cement Wash .

The simplest form of cement wash is made by taking fresh Portland cement and adding it to water, in the proportion of 14lb.cement to a gallon of water, stirring thoroughly to produce a creamy con­sistency. Only as much as can be used within a period of half an hour - should be mixed at a time. The brickwork or other surface to which the - wash is being applied should be well wetted with cold water. Application should not be made in direct sunlight. The reasons why such washes sometimes fail are usually either that the water evaporates before the cement has become fully hydrated, or that the wash is allowed to stand too long before being applied.

Some decorators make a practice of adding common salt to a wash, the purpose being to conserve the moisture until hydration has taken place.

Not more than ½lb. of salt to the gallon of wash should be added, but it is open to the objection that the salt may crystallise on the surface and form unsightly patches.

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I got in touch with engineers who built the boat but they are no longer in business. So no chance of getting it from them. It looks as if I will have to go to plan B and strip out the CEMENT FLEX and go back to bare steel and apply somthing easier. Anyone have any preferences on what you would coat your tank with. I am still toying with the idea of a flexible liner instead of an 'applied product.

 

Thanks in advance.

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I got in touch with engineers who built the boat but they are no longer in business. So no chance of getting it from them. It looks as if I will have to go to plan B and strip out the CEMENT FLEX and go back to bare steel and apply somthing easier. Anyone have any preferences on what you would

 

What's wrong with the existing coating, is it flaking off?

 

cheers,

Pete.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After weeks of research....Vactan looks good ! There are so many big industrial companies using it out there for domestic water tanks.

Thanks !

 

Matt

 

clean up anything that's flaking off, slap on the Vactan with a big long brush, work it well into the corners and crevices, rinse it off the next day and forget for 2 years.
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