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Posted

Afternoon all,

Bit of a vent, but also wondering how bad this might be...

 Newly reconditioned fuel injection pump for BMC 1.5 on my boat.

 

Advised to replace the fuel filter after the engineer fitted it, and bleed the lines after. Any issues to let him/RCR know as they're who sent him.

 

filter replaced no worries, making my way through the lines bleeding in order. 

 

get to the injection pump, and the vent screw (between the throttle control and pull stop) and I give it one gentle turn to loosen it and bleed it... And the tip of the vent screw has sheared off, and now diesel is just sitting atop the rest of the screw.

 

engineer back out tomorrow.. Very very done for if this doubles the cost of the reconditioning and refit. Especially considering unless he himself has a replacement vent screw, the pump is sure to come off and be sent away again for another month...

Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, mattc33 said:

Afternoon all,

Bit of a vent, but also wondering how bad this might be...

 Newly reconditioned fuel injection pump for BMC 1.5 on my boat.

 

Advised to replace the fuel filter after the engineer fitted it, and bleed the lines after. Any issues to let him/RCR know as they're who sent him.

 

filter replaced no worries, making my way through the lines bleeding in order. 

 

get to the injection pump, and the vent screw (between the throttle control and pull stop) and I give it one gentle turn to loosen it and bleed it... And the tip of the vent screw has sheared off, and now diesel is just sitting atop the rest of the screw.

 

engineer back out tomorrow.. Very very done for if this doubles the cost of the reconditioning and refit. Especially considering unless he himself has a replacement vent screw, the pump is sure to come off and be sent away again for another month...

 

Why, oh why, are people still messing with that particular vent screw when 98% of the time there is no need to touch it (I know what the manual says). If it is just the tapered tip broken off and the thread is OK, try screwing the broken screw back in and see if it pushes the tip down enough to stop the leak. If so, then bleed from the bleed screw on the cylindrical SIDE of the pump, but keep priming for at least 30 seconds AFTER you see no air in the fuel coming out.

 

I have seen the whole idle damper assembly wrenched out of the housing when people use that screw.

 

If you have a modernish pump with the screw set into the hexagon head in the idle stabilisation adjuster, you can probably get a new adjuster and bleed screw from a diesel specialist and fit that. Instructions for setting the adjuster in the manual.

 

Edited to add: if you can't bleed the system by only using the side bleed point, let us know, and I will tell you a workaround.

Edited by Tony Brooks
Posted

Ah, the delights of using RCR.

 

If you can remove the rest of the screw, use a screw the same thread with the end filed to a point.

Posted
Just now, hider said:

Ah, the delights of using RCR.

 

If you can remove the rest of the screw, use a screw the same thread with the end filed to a point.

 

Not sure if that will do if the tip is still stuck in the hole. He could do similar but with a very short screw and soft washer under the head to seal it.

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