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Kelvin K3 Running Temp

Martin R

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I used some old stock 'Red Hermatite' on my coolant gaskets. I had found modern silicone based sealants problematic on our K3. That said, we also have one cylinder (Number 1 - the first to fire in the firing sequence) that gets hotter than the other two especially when working hard - as at 650 rpm on rivers. After trying all manner of diagnosis and remedial work, it is still the same and we have just accepted it as another Kelvin quirk.

The engine was designed for cold water cooling and it certainly seems less happy when the coolant tank warms up.

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I tend to use a bit of Stag on gaskets just to take up any unevenness on the faces.

I hope there is no serious damage the cylinder and head did have flow but very restricted.


I always turn the engine over with the spit cocks open and decompression off before starting and never had any water come out.

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I use  Blue Hylomar for water and oil gaskets and Wellseal for metal to metal seals such Lister or Petter bumping clearance shims and Kelvin Model J or  K head "gaskets".

 Even with Hylomar you have to be judicious and sparing. Too much gasket goo of any variety can cause problems.


If the gasket face is too rough better to get it refaced, or the hole sleeved if really bad. On a J or K the head water face is not bad to do as the head stands nicely on the exhaust face.  The water faces on the cylinder are more awkward 'coz the cylinder is awkward to get hold of,  heavy and the two faces are not in the same plane.


 As  the head outlet was badly blocked it might be worth checking the "scoop" on the head  inlet  pipe to ensure that is not also bunged up.





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Thanks for the advice, gasket material , well seal and Emery cloth all just arrived so I can clean everything up.


I have back flush all the heads and blocks with water to ensure everything is clear, got some gunk out on the 1st unit but the 3rd unit where the restrictions where all clear.


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