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Found 8 results

  1. Spending my first night on board my new home. Everything seems in order but I can't work out my battery % has dropped to 89 when I am connected to mains power. Not my area of knowledge so any help would be much appreciated : )
  2. Went away for a couple of days and returned to no shoreline power.....all still connected and nothing had tripped out. Second time this has happened.....any simple explanations as to what's causing this. 🤔
  3. Hi All, Happy New Year - let's hope this one kicks the coronavirus out! I have a shoreline RR46W fridge with freezer top box and need to find a new door for the freezer. I've looked on the usual website including shoreline but cannot find one. Any bright ideas on where to find one?
  4. Has anybody experienced this problem before? Let me know if you need any more information. I am no electrician, so might have used the wrong terminology here and there, do forgive me! We live on a 60ft 2009 narrowboat in a marina, always connected to shoreline when moored. Problem: 230V power will suddenly cut out when connected to shoreline, regardless of time of day/temperature outside/what is running When power has gone off, lights (indicating battery on float charge/fast charge/inverter on) on inverter (Sterling Pro Combi S) not displaying Power can be turned back on by switching from shoreline power to inverter, which comes on, then switching back to shoreline - BUT has also switched itself back on When shoreline power is back on, inverter shows battery is on fast charge - takes approx. 1 hour to reach float/trickle charge Last occurrence: 21:30 Tuesday: 230V power turned off, 12V remained on. Nothing special turned on using 230V apart from usual fridge/freezer etc. Reading on DC Distribution: 12.7 and -07 Didn't check inverter panel Switched to inverter - working, and back to shoreline - working again Checked inverter panel - battery on fast charge (Switched between BATT 1/BATT 2 on DC Distribution. BATT 2 (starter battery) not showing on panel - discovered that was because isolator had been switched on. Switched off isolator and starter battery working as normal, engine started. Probably not related, but noting here just in case.) 22:30 Tuesday: battery on float charge 07:00 Wednesday: battery still on float charge Later on: Switched engine on, unplugged from shoreline, switched inverter on - working 08:50: Plugged back into shoreline while engine still running - no 230V power, 12V still working. Inverter panel lights not showing 09:00: 230V turns itself back on, engine still running, inverter panel - battery on fast charge 10:00: inverter panel - battery back on float/trickle charge Might also be relevant: When connected to shoreline, inverter won't switch on. Will only switch on when disconnected from shoreline - so when we are able to switch the inverter on when the 230V power goes off, does this mean that the inverter isn't registering that it is connected to the shoreline? Is one battery on its last legs/dead and causing the whole thing to cut out/drain so suddenly? I have pics of 230V/12V circuit I can attach if needed. Could there be a problem with an isolation switch for the domestic batteries, hence why 230V still off when engine running/connected to shoreline? Batteries last changed 3-4 years ago. Why did the power cut out while the engine was running, and the battery was on fast charge when it came back on? Why does whole inverter system go off when power cuts out?
  5. Hi I like cooking and I've got myself a nice new New World 55cm LPG cooker which is great. I've only been living aboard for getting on for 3 weeks and so far, I've been eating flippin' ready meals! Admittedly, we have a fantastic new chef at work and her food is irresistible so I'm actually eating well - too well! Thing is, when I was living on the boring old land, I used to cook up some seriously good meals. And, because in a former life I used to cook for between 5 and 10 people on a regular basis, I used to make meals in kind of 8-portion quantities (I know what the quantity of all ingredients is for 8 people). I did the same for the last 3 years when I was living on my own. I'd eat one, stick one in the fridge and 6 portions in the freezer. So, at any one time, I'd have maybe 12-15 meals in the freezer of 4 or 5 different cuisines - couple of spectacular chilli's, a belting curry or two, utterly delicious creamy chicken, bacon and garlic casseroles, humdinging beef in red wine and maybe a warming goulash, lasagne or hotpot. So, I want to do the same on my nb. Luckily, there was a 12v fridge on board when I bought my boat but it only has a weedy ice box. I want to go out and about on the cut quite often, so it would seem that a 12v freezer is the only option to keep my meals frozen whilst on the move. I don't really have the room (or budget!) for a standard under-counter or top-of-counter freezer, so I'm looking at maybe a Waeco portable chap like this... http://www.minicoolers.co.uk/products/waeco/cf26.htm Whilst this is still expensive, it's a couple of hundred sovs cheaper than, say, a Shoreline under-counter freezer and will probably just about have the capacity that I'm after. So, does anyone have any recommendations or suggestions either regarding this model or alternatives? Cheers Adam
  6. Hello Any advice or tips on the following energy problem would be much appreciated! We recently bought a dutch barge that we've just cruised down to it's new mooring. On the way down the the inverter only worked occasionally, most of the time the 'low battery' light was on. It has a 'Victron Energy phoenix multi plus' inverter with a 'Victron multi control' panel. I assumed the batteries were spent, but we'd be fine once hooked up to shoreline (32 Amp) And we were...for a few days. All was well but we no longer have any power - the inverter is once again just showing 'low battery' So....does shoreline bypass the batteries making it irrelevant if they are in good condition or not? (making it a problem with the inverter?) And should we still have the inverter on when using shoreline? (The switch options are 'on' 'off' and 'charger only') Thanks for your help, sorry if it's obvious!
  7. This is, I hope, an academic and hopefully generic question to ease my concerns. We're on shore line most of the time but, when cruising, the cable is a bit short to stretch so we use an inverter, primarily for telly, etc. We have a recurring debate as to whether the inverter should be switched off when we are not using 240v. Having read debate elsewhere about unplugging your home mobile phone/tablet charger when it is not actively charging ('cos the primary winding is still powered up and, if faulty, could overheat) I feel the inverter should be turned off. But it is not working, ...or is it?? Discuss.....,
  8. Before embarking on installation of my AC system, if anyone could share any information on the following I would appreciate it. According to the RCD (recreational craft directive) is the following AC system acceptable? (I shall start form shoreline connection to AC outlets) Shore line connection plug fed into an RCD (residual current device) within 0.5 meters form the plug, the RCD shall be housed in a waterproof box next to the plug (a garage box). This RCD shall feed into two single pole MCBs, one connected to the diesel immersion heater, and the other connected to the inverter. Out of the inverter I propose to feed another RCD, housed within the electrical cupboard which shall feed two other single pole MCBs, a 10A MCB for a ring circuit of ac sockets (12 sockets, which I know is a large amount for one ring, but with 2.5mm cable and a smaller MCB this will reduce loading the sockets with the full whack of the 3KW inverter), and the other 12A MCB for a washing machine. My main question is... Does the galvanic isolator need to be connected at both RCDS or would connecting it to the first RCD ground the inverter through the galvanic isolator? Or do both RCDs and Inverter require grounding through the galvanic isolator. I will also be connecting the inverter to the batteries but that shall be for another day. Thanks, Will
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