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Hiya, In the recent heavy rain three of our six roof vents have leaked, and more than just a drop. We have those ECS ventiduct vents, with a sort of plastic mushroon covered by a low round metal grill that are pretty common. I unscrewed both parts from the roof and other day and use exterior silicone sealant to try around the joint between the roof and the plastic mushroom and just generally cleaned them up from crud etc, but they still leak. They have started doing this at the same time, so I guess they are getting old. But they cost over £30 a pop from what I can see. Can anyone suggest something else that will seal them better than the silicone, maybe some kind of putty/grout or somesuch?? The metal grills are fine, but I think that the plastic components are just a little old and worn/degrading. I'd rather not replace them with a new system as I don;t fancy drilling new screw holes in the roof etc. I'd much appreciate any suggestions that people might have!!!

Hello all, There are a few posts about redoing aluminium windows but just wanted to double check with the more experience that my plan made some sense and for some advise regarding particular products. I have aluminium windows as per photos and what with the recent rainy weather I found at least two of them leaking pretty badly ! they are 10years old or so. (I have owned the boat about a year and a half) THE PLAN: - Remove all wood framework inside - Unscrew windows from outside (drill out any that have rounded) - Prize away windows trying to keep from bending, using a pallet knife to break seal - Rub down with sandpaper and Fertan any rusty metal behind (wasn't sure if I would need to paint after Fertan?) - Clean windows up, remove any old silicone - Use a new rubber window seal (need some help here...) *Not sure which particular product to use ! Midlands seems to stock a few types? Could someone confirm which product to use? These were the three products I couldn't seem to figure out which one to go for.... Product Code: CW-052, Product Code: C120, Product Code: CW-015 *What do I stick this to? window or boat? (I am assuming its one sided sticky) *Not sure what to do at corners, presumably I cut this into 2 long and 2 short lengths the same as window, then do I mitre the corners as best I can? - Ok, then re-screw window back in, not sure what the screws go into presumably self tapping into the boat steel ?? - Then finally ,apply small bead of silicon around window frame *Anyone recommend a sealant for this, heard mixed things about sikaflex and I understand its important to get a marine one. So... Have I missed anything?? Any tips at all really appreciated as I am a little nervous about taking my windows out, I am going to start with one ! Many thanks in advance, Look forward to reading your opinions. Martin Photos below: Above is window from outside. Above is screws attaching windows Above is more screws from outside that look like they might be a pain to get out :/ Above is wooden framework inside boat that I was planning to remove first !

Hi, I bought a collingwood sailaway in February and have been cruising in it every two weeks since then. I discovered yesterday that the dripless shaft seal is leaking. It isnt just dripping but a significant trickle of water is coming in. I though the jubilee clips might need tightening so I tried this but it made it worse. Has anyone replaced one of these before? And if so can it be done in the water, I have seen videos where people in yachts do it in teh water with the aid of a greased rag. I was thinking of a greased rag around the outside and then another on the inside as I swap teh seals over? I'm after some guidance please, I really dont want to take the boat out of the water if i can help it and ideally would do the work myself. Also, any brands of shaft seal that you would recommend, ideally someone I can have a chat with on the phone about the installation! Any help would be appreciated, I realise that Collingwood should probably correct this but I havent the time nor inclination to chase them about it I just want it fixed! I have attached a picture of the leaking seal. Many thanks, Will

Hello Everyone, I have had to resort to a post about this as tonight I feel defeated !! after 2 months of battling with a leak in my engine room, I really thought I had it sussed ! - I have had various things to the calorifier done, including expansion tank fitted and all the joints re done, (plumer was doing some other work did this) - I have reseated the calorifier skin fitting with CT1 as I noticed this wasnt very good, - I then found a small hole near another pipe exit, where a spot of weld was missing and filled this with CT1 , really thought this was it. And yet still I find water, and a fair amount !! Alot of people say check the prop but I really dont think its this and I regularly twist the knob, but I am going to attempt to completely repack this at the weekend. For now I have put a bowl under it., I have taken some photos and even a video to try and show the issue and am desperate for some advice, I had the boat surveyed recently and he said everything was in very good conditon so am dubious to think its the hull itself leaking but starting to feel that way. I did run the eberspecher this morning for hot water and it rained lots today. I have a cratch cover and cannot figure it out ! I wondered if it was coming in through the vents but they dont seem wet ? Any help greatly apreciate, it may stop me going totaly mad. Thanks Martin http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_202756.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_202802.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_203654.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_203703.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4504.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4505.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4506.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4508.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4509.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4510.JPG Ps. sorry some of the photos are terrible, just home from work and tried to take the best I could on my phone with a torch, The video is a little better I hope

advice please, time has come to take out and reseal twp windows. want to know the easiest way to do this. Have been told that I need to extract windows, clean. then rub down frame, vactan, primer coats (2?) then pre coat then top coat (3?). When finished that replace windows etc. This will mean putting the boat under cover which may be problematic. Do I really need to get all those coats onto the body before I can put the windows back in as this will mean at least a weeks work with some days being only an hour or so. Welcome any views or past experience.

I admit myself confused. I get that an open weed hatch, faulty stern packing, or non functioning bilge pump will flood the engine bay - but why oh why does that sink the boat? The ballast at the bow counteracts the weight of several people standing on the stern so should be enough to counteract the weight of water in the engine bay. Am I missing something? Is the water getting from the engine bay into the main hull somehow and over weighing the whole boat? I thought the engine bay, below deck level, was a separate compartment from the main hull and ballast area. Surely there is more we can do to reduce risk of sinking?! Please can you guys clarify.

The recent heavy rain has reminded me that a couple of our window frames have started to leak between frame and cabin side. I removed them all 19 years ago, and in my ignorance used silicone and stainless steel self tapping screws. Now 19 years aint bad, but I hope to improve on that this time and go for 30 years. I have decided (through reading the forum) that I will use butyl rubber window tape,if I can get the windows out ok. The question , though, should I continue with the self tapers,or would there be any benefit from tapping all the holes and use stainless steel machine screws instead? Thanking you.