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Showing results for tags 'fuel filter'.
Found 9 results
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Hey looking for some advice, currently servicing our bmc engine which has 3 old fuel filters fitted that I've replaced, got 3 new ones on there and started bleeding the system which was going fine as normal for the first 2 filters, then the final 3rd filter I can't seem to get any diseal to come through (got the bleed screw open and the manual injector pump is working but can't get any fuel to come through) tried taking the filter off and putting back and there doesn't seem to be any obvious issue stopping it from getting through after the 2nd filter which bleed successfully. Anyone got any troubleshooting advice or ideas on what the issue might be?
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Hi I need to fit a new tank, and by watching a few videos and talking to fellow boaters, I know that some important precautions need to be taken to avoid a massive air lock in the engine. I will use the existing "fuel to engine" and "return to tank" hoses, and am under the impression that a good way to avoid the air lock issue would be to: 1. Isolate the fuel filter. 2. Fit the hoses to the new tank. 3. Undo a bit the bolt on the fuel filter that releases the air. 4. Turn the ingition (without starting the engine) to "suck the fuel" out of the new tank into the hoses (and filter). 5. Repeat the process until no air comes out. 6. Start the engine. I learnt about steps 3. to 6. from the video below, which has a different type of filter, and it's a tutorial on how to release the air out after running out of fuel. That is not my case, so hopefully I won't need to continue the process on the injectors, only at the fuel pump. Please let me know what you think about this. The relevant part starts at around the end of the first minute. The attached photos are of the existing fuel filter in my engine. The engine is a Lister Petter PW4A48, but I'm not sure that's relevant for this matter. Many thanks! Many thanks!
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Hi I need to swap these fuel pumps/filters with some new ones, the engine is a lpws4a and its currently working besides how bad they look. How do I swap all the pipes? do the copper pipes have to be copper? Can you id the parts needed, I think its a fuel lift pump and a agglomerate , but am not 100% any help or advise will be greatly appreciated. many thanks Shaun
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My Isuzu 42 will need a service soon (250 hrs) so oil and fuel filters are required. Apparently they are the same for the 25, 35 and 55 hp models, so does anyone with one of these engines know a good a source? OEM parts are expensive so I'm hoping there are decent alternatives available. I have done a search without much success (the posts I have found are confusing for a mere numpty), and I don't want to end up with parts that either won't fit or are sub-standard. The OEM part references are 894456-7412 (oil filter) and 897172-5491 (fuel filter). The air filter is 100066-4LS although I don't need one for this service. Any websites or suppliers in the East Midlands (Ashby or Tamworth area) would be appreciated.
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Hello, I'm looking to fit a primary fuel filter to a boat a recently bought but I'm not sure what type of connectors to use. The fuel tank has 8mm copper pipes that run to an adapter which connects to 16mm rubber pipes which then lead to the engine. The point at which the pipes change is probably the best location for the fuel filter in terms of having something secure to bolt it to But I have no idea how to attatch the various pipes to the filter. The filter I'm thinking of getting is this one: LINK I'll try to upload a picture shortly so you don't have to rely on my sub standard/vague descriptions. Thanks in advance for any help.
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I have to change the filter in my coarse filter/agglomerator, a CAV 296. It's a job I've not done before, so thought I would just ask if there are any wrinkles, dodges or stuff to be wary of. I've got the new filter on its way from good old ASAP Supplies. AIUI, it's reasonably simple: turn off fuel tap at tank, undo central bolt and remove the bottom bowl and the old filter cartridge, catching the spilt fuel in a bowl or cut down milk carton positioned below. Clean up bits and refit with new element and seals. Turn on fuel and bleed via the bleed screw on top of housing. The filter sits below the bottom of the tank, so hopefully fuel will flow readily into it. Do I need to put a smear of grease on the seals, as I would with a spin on filter? Is there liable to be a problem with getting the assembly to make a leak proof seal? Thanks in advance for any advice!
