noff

thanks Tony I will get my friendly sparky to have a look and will report back when cured (hopefully)

yes youre quite right.... tired minds should not write ...sorry. Right two pumps ONE pressure switch. One pump cuts off at cut of point (checked) and the other keeps running. why??? hope that makes more sense

We have two Aquakings running in parallel running off one pressure switch which have happily supplied all our liveaboatd watery needs for the past 4 years. Recently after we have run very low on water one of the pumps continues running whilst the other switches off . I have re-checked the pressures in accumulator tanks etc , but I suspect the adjustable pressure switch on the pump not shutting off may need adjusting . I would like some suggestions before I 'tamper' with the pump. thanks

This may have been posted already but there are a couple of 'Dutch barge' winches on the EBa* site. I have no connection with this , just thought they may be of use to someone. the number is 160578578404

happened here once (Medway estuary ) and they used high pressure hose to blast mud away.. messy but it worked anyway glad youre free again.

cat/dog litter is good stuff, Leave it to absorb then scoop up, . We also use our 'cheap' water sucking vacuum cleaner in the bilges and its fine after , dispose of contents carefully (container?)

stunning, everyone seems really happy & relaxed.. they certainly lift the winter gloom...

Could you not fill the 'gap' between lining and 1'' foam with Rockwall type material ?

thanks y'all .. it all makes sense..

What size flue would one use on a 6'' deck/ceiling collar allowing for expansion/glass rope and sealant??

Awfully posh people visiting their massive and expensive Dutch barge to see how their small army of workmen were doing looked over towards us in our small and rusty 80 year old Dutch barge and enquired..''Are you surviving''?? then walked off

THANKS for replies.. billowing white WD40 smoke may be a lil to much ( the dry ice effect) Re those old brands. its strange how they slowly disappear isnt it, I remember the Black & Yellow tubes of Zebo???. Will get some of the 'new stuff' and try it on a test piece as I have a lot to cover and do not want to find out it was not what I expected, yes a small test first.. now wheres the old tee shirt?

yes I did consider black lead as I wanted an industrial look to it, would you apply/polish it with a brush or cloth? We are liveaboards so there should not be a problem with rust. Diesel is good for rust and we like the smell funny enough but maybe not for a live fire hearth. I also thought about some thin oil or even penetroil/wd40 ?? but feel it may be very flamable .

Thanks David for your time. I could have googled but sometimes it is good to see others 'hands on experiences including yours I am pleased that either grade can be used for flue. The only problem I have is its 5 1/2 inch dia size re collars/ adaptors etc but I will shop around for a solution. It may be the best of both worlds though with a reduced flue after Blackroses experience and a good quality stailess steel flue for longevity.

I am just in the final stages of fabricating a new hearth / back plate for our new 9kw multi fuel stove which replaces our Firefox 5. Most steel hearths I have seen are painted with some type of black paint but I want to keep the steel bare so to speak. The steel I have used is rusty and so the mill scale has gone , Is there any thing I can use to seal the steel that will not ignite !!! In Holland they used to use a strange concoction of ingredients including Linseed oil to seal the bare steel on their decks etc resulting in a brown/bronze colour , but Linseed is not too good near heat. If I burnish? the steel plate with a powered wire brush it produces the effect I want.. how do I retain this??

fantastic.. I think you have just saved me a lot of trouble ...really appreciated .. Morso Panther (sorry). Did you use twin wall chimney after that?? If so manufactured or self built? As I said earlier the 6 inch twin wall became 8 inch and looked huge and awful .. 4 1/2 inch is ok.

I have always had 2 Carbon Monoxide alarms aboard,you never know..TOON is a 86 year old Dutch barge and I have not yet seen a Narrow boat type collar on a Dutch barge old or new ...why? . The Firefox had a flange I fabricated and welded to the deck and I made my own twin wall ( two mild steel pipes with fireproof foam between) which worked fine up to its removal. I may have to go down this road again, I just wanted to make sure that the 2mm wall thickness of the mild steel tube was up to the job/or the SS could be used . The last thing I want is to have to re build it all nextyear.. Blackrose.. I read one of your threads that you also had a villager stove with a 6 inch stovecollar & flue which you reduced to 5'' I think I recall. Did this arrangement work out in the long run. thanks for replies, I know it all sounds a bit indecisive but I was quoted £380 for a flue system incl some twin wall not including deck plate/collar , and I think the 6'' flue expanded to 8'' once it was twin wall and would have looked hideous .

I wrote a thread this week re whether mild steel tube be used as flue as I have a length which I thought was 3mm but turns out to be 2mm. Is this too thin for use as flue on a Villager 9/10kw multi fuel stove. ??? It fits nicely into the stove collar leaving about 2mm gap all round (is this too small) I have also got about 5m of brand new 5 1/2'' dia by 1.5mm or 1.mm stainless steel flue in various lengths fastened by clamp bands which came from a lab that was demolished. If I ended up using this it would leave a gap of about 8mm all the way round between it and the stoves collar .. is this too much to 'fill' with rope/sealant etc. ALso good folk is there any way to tell the diffference between 316 stainless steel and the lesser quality (304???) .I have tried a magnet which will not stick , any other ways ?? If I can use the S.S then I can fabricate an outside chimney from the mild steel tube so many pennies saved .. I am curious as to how manufactured twin walled flue is attached / passes through the ceiling/deck ?? I need to get on with this job urgently as I ripped my Firefox 5 out last week after 3 years of unfailing but not enough warmth and its b****y freezing

thanks y'all ... Blackrose I think I will follow your concotion of cement/silicone. Yep , pleased that the general consensus is its ok to use the 'tube'

so how do you actually 'register'for VAT free status? Is it simply a question of 'convincing' the retailer? you are VAT free status ? what proof would you need ? Or as I amentioned is it a question of registering (if so how) .

thanks Blackrose. yes there is a few mm space between stove collar and steel flu so should be ok .. will fill with the high temp sealant. Why do you not recommend the silicone on the stove collar and advise cement?

thanks for replies.. would certainly save me a few pennies

We are about to fit our new 9kw multi fuelonto our barge to replace the Firefox 5 which has struggled valiantly to warm us this last Winter. I have read and read again almost every thread I think there is on flues/hearths etc and the Firefox ran happily and safely for 3 years. I have been given a 3m length of 6'' mild steel tube approx 3mm thick which fits perfectly into the collar on top of the stove. and can be cut to size to fit the twin wall adaptor. My friend said he has just fitted his new 5 Kw multifuel (smaller flu) with similar steel tube. I think it will corrode very quickly as it is not enamelled or vitrous coated ..am i right or wrong . ?? I am very tempted to use it as its a great fit/length and free but I do not want to take it all apart again next year full of rust and holes.. I trust your learned selves will once again help me on this.??

We are on tidal waters and I have seen some really big Mullet in the shallows edging Mallards out of the way for scraps of bread Ive thrown in. The Mullet appear to get right underneath the Mallard which then eventually take off !

I have known this Creek and surrounding area for 35 years and it is very unique. Some of the upper creek has already been 'developed' into luxury ?? flats/apartments on the creek side, making a private beach scenario as you cannot access the creek there . The old part of the creek is very unique and original in that the boat/barge builders ( a rare thing) are able to continue their trade and pass on their knowledge to the next generation. I used to live at Sittingbourne home to Milton Creek which was one of the most famous Thames barge yards in the county, sadly it fell into neglect, the local mill used to pour their stinking waste into it and industrial units sprung up blocking the creek out. The Dolphin Barge yard/museum struggles to survive on volunteers and limited funding and there were plans to create a new road link (already built??) which would cut the head of the creek off . Then there is Conyer Creek sited between Milton and Faversham Creek which also became the site of electric gated luxury apartments on the site of a boat yard.So it sadly seems that the rest of Faversham Creek will become a playground for more outsiders with the cash to influence . Really sad times .. well done Guardian for highlighting the saga.