Alvin

Thanks George, Plan to check injectors, but first check that fuel is at each before removal and testing

Hi George94, I have drained some fuel off from bottom of water trap, as I thought worst case scenario and it looks Ok, for all you said it should, a little bit of floating stuff when shaken. Would expect filter to remove this sort of thing. Cannot understand sudden non starting if fuel seems OK. With decompressors if an injector was stuck would have thought two would have started her. cheers Alvin

Hi Phil, The oil has not been changed since rebuild, although not many hours used 20hrs or so, but did not flush out all oil courses that were diffecult to reach.The oil used is Morris 30 and I think the can says API CC. Friend has given me 14pints of 15W40 and intend to drain off and fill with this.I had not realised the importance of a detergent content oil! I do not have an oil pressure gauge fitted. To answer some other comments here, the leak off does return through rocker cover,the smoke does stop when throttling back. Thanks very much, Alvin

Hi All, This is probably a question that has been asked many times by fellow owners of this old diesel.Last two time out got more smoke than usual. This was a bit black on start up and small splash of oil on water,then ran lighter to clear but always a bit smelly of diesel exhaust. The oil filled after engine rebuild 2 years ago was SAE30, although manual says 10W which I could not find, only done about 20-30hours. Would an oil change to a multigrade Diesel engine oil be a good idea? what would be recommended. Also is it possible after releasing decompressor on start, that pushing the linked levers past TDC have an effect on the valve clearances causing a poor compression and allow oil to enter chambers? Thanks in advance, Alvin

Thanks for your reply, it had not occcured to me that the leak off went in to top of tank. Obvious now you point it out. The tank is built into the stern and all I can see/feel is the lower tap. If this breaks off the tank will not drain at least. Could replace with clamped rubber pipe and inline tap between there and the spill rail drain pipe about 5ft apart. Thanks again Alvin

One year ago when I fitted this rebuilt engine to boat, the connection were made to fuel and leak off from existing lines from the aft gravity fed tank. The guy who helped me turned taps to on, subsequently I found that he had turned the leak off tap the wrong way with wrench & force( ACW leak off on - fuel CW on)and damaged an almost inaccessible connection. How does the leaked off unspent fuel, I assume, feed into the bottom of a tank? Noticed yesterday that fuel may have been coming out of connection to 3 way rail, just a dribble. Wondered if I could fit a reservoir locally to catch, then to pour into tank when engine stopped. cheers Alvin

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways. Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this issue, yesterday Monday 27th I decided to attach an extra earth line from alternator bracket and the battery. Started engine and the light went out and the ammeter came to life and showed a charge about 20amp I think, but on negative side, so I think the wires need reversing. Anyway thanks again to everyone. Will have a look later at book opportunity. cheers Alvin

Hi Blodger, Sorry that I have confused everyone, you are right it is a double pole sw. As I may have said in orig.topic start, the Alernator has been tested and works fine. The light not going out is the issue and have learnt that this should go out with the positive output from Alt. We are going to check with Taco that revs are high enough and to check output voltage & current from I term. Might also change lamp to very low resistance one (assuming existing is high-need to check with electrical friend. Ref diagram I wish there was an easier way, other than via Http:// etc. any suggestions please? cheers Alvin

Over the last weeks my electrically capable friend and I have been fitting an alternator and new wiring to my old SL3. The particular Bosch alternator was suggested by the dealer as charging at 500RPM upwards and it does on his test rig and as I did not want to change engine pulley seemed good plan. The unit fitted well after making a steel tubular spacer between original rear bracket on engine and rear lug on Alt. The main connection points on rear of Alt. are Battery + and Ign. ve+? chassis to ve-. From the ve+ side of battery we mounted a double acting ingnition switch,one line to start sw. to starter, second line to ignition light also to ve+ on battery. Engine starts, on button with ignition switch on. As I look at diagram today cannot see why light is also in a ve+ circuit or should this circuit drop out once full charge revs are met therefore light goes out on oprn circuit. I really wanted to attach diag.but never seem to be able to use the attaching system ( copy & paste would be so easy)?

Hi All, Has anyone had these custom made, made yourself or can these be purchased in set lengths. My free board is low and as used in open choppy water it is too easy to go over the side for me or crewmates.

Hi Paul, Thanks for yours and others input, have been looking at what Halfords offer and they make Bosch Calcium Batteries seem the better option for leaving in car (boat) to handle temperature extremes and offer 30% more start up power. Hav'nt found a price yet so could be very expensive . Any knowledge of this type of Battery. Cheers Alvin

Hi Steamraiser, Thanks for your reply, which is very helpful. I did what you suggested as I set them yesterday. Ironically the centre pump has two marks for some reason. So have looked at the three spare pumps that have with single marks and have measured the opposite end from marks aligned but just visible. Used old mechanical vernier, but need to borrow digital today to double check. However they feel and look right now. But have not started engine after recon. It was having opened pump housing door when realised the each needs bleeding to ensure gravity fuel feed (on bench) is air free. Found one pump very stiff,all run freely now!

Bit of a long shot, but has anyone ever setup the fuel rack on this or similar engine using Bryce pumps. Have replaced two out of three that were stiff, but one of these does not have calibration marks. nearest to speeder/governor end. The centre does have marks and furthest has stop shoulder end as calibration shoulder. Any thoughts should the two free pumps have marks to set up. cheers Alvin

Hi Tony, Have not touched centre screw in pump bodies. No they were not submerged, just sprayed externally to clean. One pump was seized when setting rack, replaced with spare from old engine same serial No. onto existing shims bit of a chance I know, but hope will be OK. Been advised to have a rag bung ready to stop air intact if engine runs too fast. Although not this far yet. Want to check that governor link tee end (in manual) is still engaged at top of governor arm. Manually turning engine via pulley 'cam out' means cannot fit injectors yet with too much compression. regards Alvin

Hi Tony, Thank you so much for this comprehensive reply, I look forward to reading through all pages with great interest. To answer your questions above, the racks did move freely until I made mistake of putting some oil on it. Had been very dry from parafin cleaning for many months. Now very sluggish, but assume once diesel is in system should free up. The rack setting was based on aligning calibration marks on two pumps to within 0.005 of side of pumps, by adjusting centre turn screw. Placing shim0.028/0.032 to lock locating plate. the resulting movement was 0.090/0.102. according to page 32 of Lister Book 650 thanks again Alvin

Have asked similar questions, but need some idiots guide to this mechanism. Have set fuel pumps to manual which seems to set the rack movement to be only zero to 0.10inches from start/run/stop. Beyond this the governor controls speed? Should this link to governor via spring feel very light or have some resistance? Is it possible to have the link fall out of engagement with the governor lever arm? Any guidance please will be very grateful. Have left emails with Peter Thompson at marengservices but guess he may be on holiday Thanks Alvin

Hi, I had a similar issue with my Lister SL3, old manual said I should use 10W. Locally was sold Morris SAE 30 Supreme. But was advised that could be too thick for winter starting Morris advice online Andy Brown abrown@morris-lubricants.co.uk, suggested Ground Force 10W40. Have drained SAE30 today ready for changeover. Anyone want to buy two gallons? Cheers Alvin

Have posted mail a couple of days back, and am starting to worry that this type of engine is a bit long in the tooth to get any replies. I would love to be able to share topics with other users. May be it is a bad time for replies, if we are all out Christmas shopping My boat is not a canal boat, but a converted 25 ft RN cutter built 1942 for an Aircraft Carrier.

Have been putting an SL3 hybrid together for last few months. 1963&1969. Have set fuel pumps and attached to link assy. Had expected tension speeder spring to have more rate. But it feels very weak and bearly pulls the link back. Not sure what to expect, but thought that linkage to governor would have given some resistance. This is just me pulling nut on link out housing. Could something have sheared off or disengaged between Governor Lever Assy and Link Assy. Any feed back please to help me forward. Thanks Alvin

Hi Davel, Lots of great advice and at risk of adding the same answer within all of us inspired. The sheared off bolt, might be worth just drilling a hole on circumference say 3mm or equiv. down thread (wouldnt hurt re-engagement too much)and bolt will help releasing agent get in. I use Rustoff by Wurth may not be easy to find, but Plusgas is good. Also using Easyouts reverse spiral tap like tool, using tap wrench into centre hole drilled in bolt (should be softer now). Will still need release agent and maybe a little heat to aluminium housing. But not easy to isolate heated area. But got to try and good luck. cheers Alvin

Hi Friends, From Lister manual the recommended oil is 10W and same for gearbox&reduction. Motor Factor could not offer 10W but Morris sae30. Said all Thames Barge people use in their engines. Before I fill to level 13 1/2 pints only 8 so far would you say that this oil is OK.

Have been rebuilding1969 SL3 for last year(slowly) have time as out of boat. Engine was covered with oily deposit and previous owner of engine said it smoked and did not have enough power, he did not have cooling ducting. Have found rings badly worn 10 times the manual stated gap on scraper rings . Peter Thompson has supplied new ring sets ( gap is perfect) Valves were pitted and too recessed about 4 times manual statement. Spare heads of my old1963 engine fitted. You said that you recall new rings and valve regrind? on schedule? Agree with Tim that valve stem wear or or bad seal could contribute. Sudden event seems confusing, but I guess when things get worn, like our joints you suddenly start limping! Interesting subject.Good luck

Hi GeoffS, I am currently using International Watertite Epoxy filler on converted carval built wartime converted RN cutter. Good above or below waterline. Advised to prime first as you have done, but I used the Yachtprimer by International. Can fill up to 2cm deep on one application. Dries quickly dependent on ambient and rubs down well. Quite expensive 500ml of each to mix 1:1 is about £48 from chandlers. Good luck Alvin( Piranha Girl)

Hi Friends, Thanks for the answers to last question ref short cut piston/cyl. route. Decided to do it properly and removed pistons and cylinders. Babit worn to copper on most shells, top of pistons down to first ring heavily carboned. But forgot one step in manual to mark chalk side of camshaft side cylinder before lifting off. Manual on reassembly states flats facing to cooling fan/fuel tank respectively, this still gives 180deg option. From oily front fins think I know which way. But is it really so important if this ends up 180deg out?? Thanks for all feedback, Alvin