Alvin

Thanks George, Plan to check injectors, but first check that fuel is at each before removal and testing

Hi George94, I have drained some fuel off from bottom of water trap, as I thought worst case scenario and it looks Ok, for all you said it should, a little bit of floating stuff when shaken. Would expect filter to remove this sort of thing. Cannot understand sudden non starting if fuel seems OK. With decompressors if an injector was stuck would have thought two would have started her. cheers Alvin

Hi Phil, The oil has not been changed since rebuild, although not many hours used 20hrs or so, but did not flush out all oil courses that were diffecult to reach.The oil used is Morris 30 and I think the can says API CC. Friend has given me 14pints of 15W40 and intend to drain off and fill with this.I had not realised the importance of a detergent content oil! I do not have an oil pressure gauge fitted. To answer some other comments here, the leak off does return through rocker cover,the smoke does stop when throttling back. Thanks very much, Alvin

Hi All, This is probably a question that has been asked many times by fellow owners of this old diesel.Last two time out got more smoke than usual. This was a bit black on start up and small splash of oil on water,then ran lighter to clear but always a bit smelly of diesel exhaust. The oil filled after engine rebuild 2 years ago was SAE30, although manual says 10W which I could not find, only done about 20-30hours. Would an oil change to a multigrade Diesel engine oil be a good idea? what would be recommended. Also is it possible after releasing decompressor on start, that pushing the linked levers past TDC have an effect on the valve clearances causing a poor compression and allow oil to enter chambers? Thanks in advance, Alvin

Thanks for your reply, it had not occcured to me that the leak off went in to top of tank. Obvious now you point it out. The tank is built into the stern and all I can see/feel is the lower tap. If this breaks off the tank will not drain at least. Could replace with clamped rubber pipe and inline tap between there and the spill rail drain pipe about 5ft apart. Thanks again Alvin

One year ago when I fitted this rebuilt engine to boat, the connection were made to fuel and leak off from existing lines from the aft gravity fed tank. The guy who helped me turned taps to on, subsequently I found that he had turned the leak off tap the wrong way with wrench & force( ACW leak off on - fuel CW on)and damaged an almost inaccessible connection. How does the leaked off unspent fuel, I assume, feed into the bottom of a tank? Noticed yesterday that fuel may have been coming out of connection to 3 way rail, just a dribble. Wondered if I could fit a reservoir locally to catch, then to pour into tank when engine stopped. cheers Alvin

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways. Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this issue, yesterday Monday 27th I decided to attach an extra earth line from alternator bracket and the battery. Started engine and the light went out and the ammeter came to life and showed a charge about 20amp I think, but on negative side, so I think the wires need reversing. Anyway thanks again to everyone. Will have a look later at book opportunity. cheers Alvin

Hi Blodger, Sorry that I have confused everyone, you are right it is a double pole sw. As I may have said in orig.topic start, the Alernator has been tested and works fine. The light not going out is the issue and have learnt that this should go out with the positive output from Alt. We are going to check with Taco that revs are high enough and to check output voltage & current from I term. Might also change lamp to very low resistance one (assuming existing is high-need to check with electrical friend. Ref diagram I wish there was an easier way, other than via Http:// etc. any suggestions please? cheers Alvin

Over the last weeks my electrically capable friend and I have been fitting an alternator and new wiring to my old SL3. The particular Bosch alternator was suggested by the dealer as charging at 500RPM upwards and it does on his test rig and as I did not want to change engine pulley seemed good plan. The unit fitted well after making a steel tubular spacer between original rear bracket on engine and rear lug on Alt. The main connection points on rear of Alt. are Battery + and Ign. ve+? chassis to ve-. From the ve+ side of battery we mounted a double acting ingnition switch,one line to start sw. to starter, second line to ignition light also to ve+ on battery. Engine starts, on button with ignition switch on. As I look at diagram today cannot see why light is also in a ve+ circuit or should this circuit drop out once full charge revs are met therefore light goes out on oprn circuit. I really wanted to attach diag.but never seem to be able to use the attaching system ( copy & paste would be so easy)?

Hi All, Has anyone had these custom made, made yourself or can these be purchased in set lengths. My free board is low and as used in open choppy water it is too easy to go over the side for me or crewmates.

Hi Paul, Thanks for yours and others input, have been looking at what Halfords offer and they make Bosch Calcium Batteries seem the better option for leaving in car (boat) to handle temperature extremes and offer 30% more start up power. Hav'nt found a price yet so could be very expensive . Any knowledge of this type of Battery. Cheers Alvin

Hi Steamraiser, Thanks for your reply, which is very helpful. I did what you suggested as I set them yesterday. Ironically the centre pump has two marks for some reason. So have looked at the three spare pumps that have with single marks and have measured the opposite end from marks aligned but just visible. Used old mechanical vernier, but need to borrow digital today to double check. However they feel and look right now. But have not started engine after recon. It was having opened pump housing door when realised the each needs bleeding to ensure gravity fuel feed (on bench) is air free. Found one pump very stiff,all run freely now!

Bit of a long shot, but has anyone ever setup the fuel rack on this or similar engine using Bryce pumps. Have replaced two out of three that were stiff, but one of these does not have calibration marks. nearest to speeder/governor end. The centre does have marks and furthest has stop shoulder end as calibration shoulder. Any thoughts should the two free pumps have marks to set up. cheers Alvin

Hi Tony, Have not touched centre screw in pump bodies. No they were not submerged, just sprayed externally to clean. One pump was seized when setting rack, replaced with spare from old engine same serial No. onto existing shims bit of a chance I know, but hope will be OK. Been advised to have a rag bung ready to stop air intact if engine runs too fast. Although not this far yet. Want to check that governor link tee end (in manual) is still engaged at top of governor arm. Manually turning engine via pulley 'cam out' means cannot fit injectors yet with too much compression. regards Alvin