Radio-Ga-Ga

If they had been this bad you certainly would have noticed a misfire and white smoking and you would have, eventually, burnt out the valves. There is no way that your engine was that bad. I know it's not of huge help but I think you need to take it for another extended run and carefully note what seems to happen before and during teh spitting event (if it recurs of course). Hi Albion couldn't quote from your response. I agree with both of these points. I never did think valve clearances were an issue, but got drawn into it when somebody who did gave some avice that wasn't quite right.

As far as valve clearance goes set them to the makers gap, a bit too wide just causes an extra bit of noise, but never set them too tight, it can cause valve and seat burning (valve opens to early closes too late) If the clearances continualy get tight it usualy indicates a valve or seat problem. so worth checking again after some more hours. no suggestion thats the case here, they often change shortly after rebuilding. Best of luck with it.

Sure its not Repetative Gaff Syndrome?

I don't know this filter either but the retaining (cenre bolt) usualy has a copper or soft alloy washer under it, the other may also. Better to replace the washers. Hold or prop the filter in place while you do it. (and turn off the fuel)

A bigger gap means the valves clear the pistons by more not less

Learned something new today! tho at my age I'll soon forget again

I don't know what usual practice is, but I used brass hosetails. There is no electrical current involved so no galvanic corrosion, unless the hoses have metal wire that contacts the hose tails I think you mean dissimilar metal corrosion (which may have a proper name), as far as I know anti-freeze should prevent it, but stand to be corrected.

Smoke alarm low battery warning?

I don't think valve stems or seats have anything to do with your problem, I was just pointing out that it's normal to do these checks when doing work for a paying customer, A cracked head or blown head gasket could cause it, but without the other symptoms I don't think it's likely. If you've ever started a diesel car on fresh snow its amazing how much carbon comes from the exhaust, within a few minutes the snow is turning black, my opinion is that your spitting is water and carbon and that the water may just be condensation. Carbon can contain traces of fuel and I think this is what your seeing in the canal. But without actualy being there it is only theory.

If you allready have one of the push over and twist roller cutters for copper pipe, it does a good job on plastic but needs more twisting. I don't know what size 35 amp thinwall is, but I used 8mm standard cable, 57ft boat, batts opposite end to pump,

I did my decks with bird cage sand (from a pet shop) and a small gloss paint roller. after masking the shape with ordinary masking tape, rolled a small section with gloss paint with about 20% thinners, sprinkled on sand then rolled again with gloss paint then kept extending till the area was covered. Its as even as any pro job I've seen. I first started with a brush, but it left streaks in the sand, so quickly changed to the roller, the roller gets covered with sand but still does a good job. You need to take off the masking while the paint is still wet.

Probably I've mentioned this before but my first 15 working years were spent as apprentice and then motor mechanic, The only liquid I,ve seen from an exhaust is water, tho to be fair car engines never reach the same wear point as off road engines, but without clouds of smoke I realy don't see any possibility of fuel or oil running from the exhaust, there are 2 reasons why water does, one is natual condensation, and the other is a blown head gasked/cracked head, in the 2nd case there are allways other symptoms, water loss,overheating and heavy knocking on starting (caused by excess water pressure forcing water into the combustion chamber after stopping). There is though another point to make I don't think any mechanic worth his salt would ever fit a second hand head without removing the valves and de-coking and in your case of cast iron valve seat inserts, lapping in the valves, and having the head crack detected. Out of interest Thicker head gaskets are usualy available for older engines when the head has been heavily skimmed, to restore the original compression ratio. Edited to add: I forgot to answer your question, engines allways emmit water vapour as part of the exhaust gas, at high revs some of the vapour is forced into the silencer insulation ( a rockwool type material) when the engine is reduced to idle the pressure in the exhaust reduces and fluctuates and the silencer cools, this causes the water to condense and drip from the insulation into the exhaust stream and spits or drips from the exhaust

I would second Alan's point about coils, except to say long runs from a coil are usualy fine and shorter runs end up bendy, I bought mostly coils but also some 3m lengths, mostly to use where two fittings are needed close to each other. I also used pipe inserts with the additional seal and lock collets that prevent any accidental uncoupling.

I' never used hep20 I plumbed my boat with speedfit and everything I needed was available, But I guess some posts will say use Hep20.

Just had a look at mine, same engine and being unable to locate the oil light sensor decided the gauge and light sensor must be conbined, and yes it is, from a single wire! this is some electrical trickery I've not seen before. The point being removing the wire drops the oil gauge to zero puts the oil light on and sets off the beeper so an intermittent bad sensor connection could also cause your problem

As you probably know the beeper goes off on no charge, low oil pressure, or high temp, my guess is a faulty sensor popping a light on for a few seconds, or a bad connection in the charge circuit. completely re-written after more thought!

Alan, your original post didn't mention excess smoke, is that the case?

Personaly I would give more credance to the condensation point made earlier, as the engine appears to be running ok any oil or fuel in the combution chamber is going to be burned, if a cylinder was running so badly that fuel or oil was passing into the exhaust there would be a noticeable loss of performance. hopefully at some stage when you catch some of the liquid it will evaporate off your hand leaving carbon behind, and put your your mind at rest.

your right, and I strongly object to trail and scramble bikes ridden recklessly on towpaths. But I don't think most people would mind a bike being carefully ridden from boat to road.

Personaly I wouldn't want the hassle often encountered with old/vintage engines. Having said that I'm very glad that others are prepared to run and restore them, I love the sound and many look manificent. If I'd bought a boat with one? I'd run it, till I loved or hated it.

In general modern ones do, but a quick check will tell you.

Are you sure the senders are not already there? most Beta engines come with light and pressure/temp senders and you just choose the panel. if they are you just need to get VDO gauges (standard on Beta) and I agree with others that a light is the first thing you see, though if your panel has a warnig sounder with the ignition on/before starting, the sounder also goes off on high temp or low oil pressure Edited twice to add missing words!

Could they be retaliating for having their tea knocked over by a passing speeder?

Didn't intend to knock anybody with any sort of different set-up But fibregass dishes are very much stronger than mesh, and a larger dish gets a stronger signal than a smaller one, often getting a good signal when partly obscured. Some people like mopeds others like cars, just a question of taste

I used a gauge from MSC products, a sensor fits inline between tank and pump, so far has been very good. can't remember the price but arround £40 I think, (they also do an in tank sensor)