hamishnf

I'm pretty sure galvanic corrosion is 'dissimilar metal corrosion'. ie, it's corrosion that occurs because two different metals in electrical contact are immersed in an electrolyte (water) and a current develops as a result, causing erosion of the anode (which, in the case of my skin tank/hosetail setup, would be the skin tank). Brass is more noble than carbon steel. When there is an induced current isn't it electrolysis, (ie when you have stray current from shorepower hookups etc). It's my understanding that electrolysis can cause very quick erosion of the anode, whereas galvanic corrosion is usually slower. Anyone else got brass hosetails on their skin tanks? If the hosetails on the skin tanks were made of bronze wouldn't the potential for galvanic corrosion between hosetail and skin tank be even worse, as bronze is more noble than brass, and carbon steel less noble than both?

Hi all, I have just hooked up my bmc 1.8 to its skin tank using brass hosetails at the skin tank end (the only ones the chandlers had). I assumed that this would be common practice, but the thought now occurs that this could cause galvanic corrosion between the hosetail and the steel of the skin tank. Anyone had any experience of this? Does the antifreeze do anything to prevent galvanic corrosion, or does it just prevent rust? There are also a few areas in my fresh water sytem where yellow fittings touch stainless ones, do these need nylon bushes, or is it not worth it (the bulk of the water system is plastic). I would be keen to know what 'standard practise' is.

yeah, the builder (Pinders) dont usually ballast the bow, so I thought I would copy them, It also means any bilge water can drain to the stern for easier mopping up when the water tank in the bow is empty.

The Grass backing is a course weave impregnated with latex, it has lots of little holes in apparently, so water should be able to evaporate from between the grass and the baseplate, as well as between the grass and the slabs. If the backing looks a bit too waterproof then I will either cut the grass into strips, to ease evaporation, or simply turn the grass upside down, so the backing is in contact with the slabs, and the short 'grassy' bits are in contact with the baseplate, allowing the baseplate to dry. My main priority is to protect the bilge paint which is a very thick coating, ventilation comes second for me, because with luck the bilge wont be getting wet on a regular basis.

I have just ordered a load of artifical greengrocers grass, which will go on the baseplate with slab ballast on top. The grass is plastic so cant rot, should allow ventilation under the slabs in the event of water in the bilge, and is latex backed so will prevent scratches to the bilge paint (zinc phosphate then industrial floor paint). Paid £75 for enough to cover rear 2/3 of base plate (I wont ballast the front).

I have an eberspacher d3l on my grp senior 31, It takes the combustion air intake and the heating air intake from inside the engine bay where it is mounted, which is basicly inside the boat. It is only the exhaust outlet that is mounted with a through hull. I didnt install it, but had eberspacher engineers look at it a few months back and im sure they would have said if it was installed wrong. Just had a look at the manual, and it says the combustion intake air "must be sucked in from the outside, not from the passenger compartment or trunk". I have found it tends to steam up when its wet, perhaps thats why!

Hi Phylis, My last boat was a senior 31. It had two great big diesel in the back, with outdrives, wired into the boat's electrics. I owned the boat for four years, and fitted out the interior for me and my girlfriend to use as a livaboard. We used the engines maybe ten times, in four years, and even then it was to check that they were still working, (and on two occasions to change marina's). I spent lots of time and cash looking after them (esp. the outdrives), because I knew they made up most of the value of the boat. We intend for the widebeam boat to be used as a static houseboat, that still has the capacity to move along canals/slow flowing rivers if it has to. Not to be a cruiser by design. When I come to sell it I expect the new owner will want it for the same reason. I would rather spend what I have on items that we will use every day, like boilers, toilets, lighting, furniture, rather than spend it on something that will be used rarely if at all. If in three or four years we decided to use to boat for continual/regular cruising, I would probably re-power. When you're on a budget, you compromise. Is my reasoning sound, or am I missing something?

Thanks everyone, I guess less hp is needed for canals, more for rivers, and more again for tidal rivers, (if you want to go against the tide). I am looking for an engine that looks fun, is easy to install, sounds interesting when it occasionally gets fired up, but could still actually push the boat along the canals/gentle flowing rivers if needed. I had planned on leaving the engine bay open the first few times we fired it up, and only installing proper ducting/insulation if we actually decided we needed to go anywhere or use it for more than five minutes. It seemed a bit silly to pay 5k for a big shiny new 50hp engine (+installation), only to let it sit unused. A hand started air cooled, manual gbox lister means no alternator, starter motor, coolant pumps, wiring loom, control panel etc. There seem to be so many narrowboaters who get by on two cyclinders, the real question is how much extra grunt is needed for an extra three feet across the beam? If any other wide beam owners have experience of pushing a similar size hull on a 3 cylinder, or older engine, it would be great to hear from you!

Hi everone, I am soon to begin fitting out a 45'x10' widebeam shell, for use as a livaboard. I have no intention of cruising at present, but would like the flexibility to be able to move her by water if needed. I need an engine that's small simple, and cheap, providing the minimum power I can get away with for cruising on slow flowing rivers and canals. I am aware that high torque low revving engines are considered desirable for better handling, and was considering a Lister ST3. I would be really interested to hear from anyone who has a wide beam, what its engined with, and how it performs. cheers Hamish