Lol

I think the lilly covered water is here (you can see moored cruiser):

or this clicky

I think i have a problem with my rudder, but first the question how far should a rudder rotate from parallel to the boat centre line, is there an ideal maximum, can it go too far, should there be a physical stop, is there a stall position? the reason I ask is that due to the extensions to my base plate to allow for a step to enable someone to climb out of the water my rudder is unable to rotate anywhere near as far as other boats in the boatyard this makes manovering more difficult, with the rudder full round I stil get almost as much forward as sideways thrust someone suggested this limiting was so that in reverse the tiller movement was also limited so as not to knock anyone off the cruiser deck in a rudder collision - some new regulation? I can find no other reference to this I am considering modifying the steps or the rudder

I didn't think I would ever start a topic in the history section, but there is a first time for everything I was bored and rooting around the web about boaty things and in particular the Bridgewater some time ago I came across this site and it sparked boyhood memories of fishing in the basin we used to call "the boatyard" it was full of weed and lilly and loads of big Tench, what we didn't realise was how many boats were in there some of the photos below are amazing, all those boats...they were according to the locals mainly removed some being used to shore up the bank at the back of the basin which is now a flat promenade, the rest were buried and the lot covered with backfill from the local building of new houses and the broken up stone pier, the lot then having a membrane and clay put on top (the whole basin is now about 6 foot deep, in general 3ft deeper than th canal) finally the pilings were removed boat graveyard go to "After Coal" page for pics

me too, although I am in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

its difficult to imagine anything more frustrating - welcome

just to get a general thing going here would it be possible for someone to come up with a definative list of all builders and the numbers of boats they have built (isnt there one in the Waterways World annual?) for the puposes of a poll then we could have a feel for satisfaction I am assuming the forum system only allows one vote per person? at its simplest the poll could be like those toilet things at service stations - before the statisticians start I know its got problems but its just a germ of an idea?

fair enough

go to the ironmongers and buy two nails, knock one in the wall and hang a picture on it, its a picture hanger, knock the other one in the wall and hang a coat on it, its a coat hanger - both still just nails..........

correctly should read commonly more pedantry, they are one and the same and do eactly the same job for different reasons, they accumulate pressure, one from the pump the other from heat induced expansion and are correctly called accumulators (or hydropneumatic accumulators) they are designed specifically for the storage (accumulation) of liquid under pressure retaining the imparted energy for re-use

not sure why he is an idiot, if it was my boat moored next to the one on fire and i had time I think I would do the same?

Nice web site, nice people reasonable factory compared to some They are just up the road from us and as such were on our list of prospective builders (wanted fairly local so I could keep an eye) when we had finalised the list and sorted in order of prefernce have to say they were well and truly bottom i have been on a couple of boats shown on the web site and as you do when you go on someones new boat "ohhh its lovely" I dont usually lie, but.... have to be careful here but their latest boat was £80,000+ and to me looked more like one done at the advertised price

Tony, sorry to be pedantic but i was talking about the PRVs having red tops, most ive seen are red but yes you are correct most gate valves in general use have red handles i believe this is becase they are accepted for potable water use whereas yellow handled valves are usually gas certified Chris, no need to shout I have just re-read what i said and it it a little condescending - sorry however if i wanted to be clever i would have pointed out that at heated surfaces it can be Calcium or even Magnesium salts and that the point about water evaporating and leaving deposits this is not strictly speaking "lime scale" but is a combination of all the dissolved salts that were in the water and .....oh shut up Lol Tusses - good yeah

all of the following is in IMHO......... Tony my answer was written to a wider audience than engineers alone, a gate valve (if you read the post that is what i was talking about) is rotary to the layman in that you rotate a handle to actuate even though this is then transfered via a thread to a perpendicular to flow linear motion of the tapered gate or disc. Most valve seizing occurs at the thread not the internals except where as with a gate valve when it is closed the faces of the disc and the valve body can seize together Quite right they can be different colours on the top! but i think you will find red is by far the most common, maybe we should poll the forum on knob colour Chris W as for precipitation of Calcium salts (not Calcium) unusually these are inversely soluble (more heat less soluble) and can in certain situations precipitate at temperatures below 80degC, in the bulk water and is more likely to need a "key" to start it such as a heated surface, this as I said is less likely to be the coils and more likely the imersion heater elements which can be easily 100degC+ Peter F good point and not one I had considered, if it weeps and precipitation forms on the seat/trim then it could continually weep and may benefit from a blast to break it up my mind on this works a little differently in that in the real world of pressure relief or safety valves the last thing you want is them weeping, indeed where I'm working right know if a valve has actuated and passed water it has to be re-calibrated, if these boat valves have been fitted to weep due to expansion its more an unloader than a PRV (or PSV) this is why I fitted two accumulators to my system which is plumbed with no check valve between the hot and cold so that pump pulsations are taken by the lower set accumulator and then heat expansion is taken by the upper set one through the whole system In conclusion (but I'm still not 100% in my own mind about this) if you have an accumulator on the hot this is good for the valve and will mean it should never lift and as the mechanism is dry and the seal is elastomeric to metal should never seize, if you don't have an accumulator and the valve weeps then blast it, or fit an accumulator oh by the way you will probably find if you have a fairly modern boiler at home it has the same kind of valve fitted and my Baxi makes no mention of blasting it!!!!

more importantly with any kind of rotary valve is to not completely open it, open it till it stops then close it half a turn to take the tension out of the threads also with gate valves, yes do operate them every now and then but i wouldnt close them tight, wind just short of closed then wind back to open, this is to minimise damage to the machined faces of the valve from debris so when you do want it to seal it has more chance

heard this little gem a lot of times and I'm not 100% sure its the right thing to do, but I suppose if the valve manufacturers recommend it then it must be correct, this usually applies to the valves with the red knurled knob on top if your system has no expansion tank it may lift itself every time water is heated anyway? however why should lime scale form at the seal of the valve, it has more of a tendency to form on surfaces where heat is being exchanged i.e. the coils or immersion elements (i think due to the relatively low temperature of heated coils they are less likely to scale than immersion heater elements), however it can then "grow" but I would have thought that if its grown all the way to the PRV then a leaky seal here is the least of you worries then there is the possibility that you could damage a perfectly healthy seal due to you lifting the trim of the valve then lowering it back onto something washed onto the seal face, i have actually seen this happen with industrial valves my system is fitted with an expansion tank to stop the valve lifting but I am still tempted to "turn the knob" when I am in the engine space but we do inhabit an area of particularly soft water with little chance of scale in summary, Ive waffled on because i have nothing better to do here and the answer is i don't know the answer

the fun is in the journey not the arrival

I am assuming that this topic was posted 4 times because of the server problems? But having read them all its just struck me what an interesting idea it would be on any forum to start two topics simultaneously with different titles but the same questions and see where they both go, like the swinging door thing? someone is going to tell me know that this is common and has a name like "doubling up" or "swinging posts", I may be on the wrong forum I think.............

i know you said not a wiring diagram but what the hey......... my boat wiring at end of topic

quite correct, but not sure where most normal boaters would get an NPL thermometer

Chris if you mean threads about sterilising tanks yes i can help sterilising is a core part of what we do, have to say though i am a bit sick of answering these, if the OP searches he will find the gems as for using milton fuid out here we would need a tanker, this machine has a footprint about the size of half a fotball pitch and is almost as high as is long, it produces nearly 2000 cubic meters of water per hour, thats over 500 litres per second