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Everything posted by stuart

  1. Happy New Year all. I've just clicked the "TERMINATE" button on the Water Explorer website, so its officially switched off now. Thank you to everyone who used, commented and suggested improvements to the site over the past 15 years. Perhaps one day, I shall resurrect the service! Thanks, Stuart.
  2. There isn't a user interface to download those on the site. If you haven't deleted them, the files will be on the computer they were recorded on - in the Navvygator folder.
  3. Technically, the Windows app will still work (I think!!), it just won't get updates or be able to upload the data to the website. Unfortunately there isn't anyway to download the old journey data from the website, except taking screenshots or copy+paste the summary. Stu.
  4. Hi everyone. Back in 2007 I started a project called Water Explorer, to provide the first UK GPS based canal maps & "sat nav". This was at a time when phones were running on 2G services, WAP was the most popular mobile tech and the iPhone had only just been launched ! I've had thousands of visitors to the site in the past 15 years, with several thousand route recordings made, covering hundreds of thousands of miles. The website and Windows application needs a significant rewrite and improvements made to keep up with modern technology and legal requirements. I don't have the free time to dedicate to this project, so I'm making the reluctant decision to close the site at the end of 2022. Once again, thank you to everyone who has helped build it, suggest improvements and use it. I will be retaining the domain name, and in the future I may restart the project using modern tech, but no timescales on that decision! Regards, Stuart.
  5. Thanks for the info, looks like a similar replacement device for the AD7280A is the LTC6803-3. Just double the cost and out of stock everywhere!
  6. Sure, I'd be interested in a PDF schema. Thanks.
  7. Thanks for that. Are you only using 4x cells for a 12V style setup? As luck would have it, I'm also part of a project for a pick and place machine 🙂 https://indexmachines.io/
  8. Heres the PDF of the schematic - https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMS-CurrentShunt/blob/master/CurrentShuntCircuit/export/Schematic.pdf I've spent thousands with JLCPCB this year already ! @nicknorman forgot to ask, what was the cell monitoring chip you used? I'd be interested to use that in my next designs.
  9. Yep, thats what I did - RS485/MODBUS based Current Monitor, with electrically isolated data connection. https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMS-CurrentShunt
  10. Good idea, might try that with an acrylic sheet to bolt everything to.
  11. I agree custom chips are the best way for that. I used the INA228 in my current shunt/monitor and that been super accurate (20bit ADC) When monitoring cells, a lot of people have multiple parallel banks, so that's what the 256 monitors allows for, like 5x16 etc.
  12. Ah, but that's cheating!! 🤣 I wanted the flexibility of a unknown number of cells to monitor, my solution can monitor up to 256 cells and provide about 1amp balance current for each.
  13. I use an external 1.25V reference for measuring via the Atmel chip. I'm using attiny devices and the internal reference wasn't good enough.
  14. Take a look at software antialias filters, or over sampling. You can increase the effective resolution without changes in hardware.
  15. Thanks @Jen-in-Wellies it is a greaseless gland. From the comments above, I think a "normal" float style switch is going to be the best option - I'd hoped that the electronic/no moving parts would have been a better option by now, but alas! Next question - mounting the thing, previous float switch (from boat builder 15 years ago) was mounted on a flat steel plate and thrown into the bilge - this eventually rusted, broke up and clogged up the pump! Any other ideas for fixing both the pump and float switch?
  16. Ok, so once the sensor is cleaned up it works normally? That's why I liked the look of the water witch, as it doesn't trigger on oil or fuel, just water. However not rain water!!
  17. The power usage is tiny, 0.003A on the water witch I mentioned. I've got solar so that would easily cover that. Agreed, I just find over a period of years they jam up with dirt and become unreliable. Does it eventually stop or permanently damage the unit?
  18. I'd like to add an automatic switch to my bilge pump. Not keen on manual float switches as they do seem to get stuck over time. I've a Cruiser stern which generally has a dry bilge but if the rain channels block, rain water can enter the bilge. Had about 6" of water in the bilge after about 6 weeks - this isn't normally the case though, looks like build up of mud had blocked the drain. Any recommendations, for electronic style switches? I looked at the water witch one but that has a warning about rain water not being sensitive to the device.
  19. Thats good to know. How thick was the Caldwells tape in the end?
  20. Hi @andybarrett1 how did you get on with the window sealing? I also need to do this. The windows were originally fixed using foam tape which failed after a few years. I replaced with butyl tape, which eventually dried up (a few years later) and cracked! As I've a lot of boat painting to do and need to remove the windows a couple of times, I'm thinking of going back to a tape. Perhaps an EPDM tape like this one. https://www.toolstation.com/stormguard-epdm-weatherstrip-p-profile/p23386
  21. Nice to see something done properly for a change! Embedded micros can rarely cope with high network usage or code written defensively
  22. I like the ingenuity, but would advise against any port forwarding especially to low CPU power potentially "hackable" devices. This device is likely to be receiving thousands of "scans" Could the BMS not push the data to the cloud server instead ?
  23. In between forum posts, I managed to slip a disc in my back so only just got to replace the rubber bushing. My initial impression is that it should work okay, the mini rubber bushings are a little softer than the original parts, but similar size and shape.
  24. Looking at the brochure, the rubbers are about the same size as the washer - thats 33.7mm in my case, so the rubber is likely 32mm. Interestingly, they also appear smooth, without the "top hat" so I think this may just be a side effect/moulding of them being crushed against the bearing!
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