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11MoustachioedDs

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Everything posted by 11MoustachioedDs

  1. Yes, indeed. That's what I'd always prefer to do. That looks like 1-1 for/against using round pins for DC. Hmm... Would Hella or W4 sockets be a better bet? I hear Hella ones are more secure than cigarette lighter types. The sockets will be for LED task lighting and a few small bits of workshop equipment that run on 12V. Because I'll be using them for longish periods per day I'd prefer to use 12V rather than converting from 230V to run them or using AC versions. Saves running the inverter.
  2. This is for the 12V DC system. I'm using the usual rectangular 3-pin for 230V AC and assume that using round 3-pin for the 12V DC would be suitable. I imagine they can't be mixed up accidentally? I will work in compliance with the RCD, but this boat is not for resale within five years, I hope! But yes, I want to make it compliant anyway.
  3. Apologies for a slight digression but this looked like the most relevant thread. Can round pin 3-pin sockets be fitted in the 12V system of new boat or are there any regs that specify otherwise for new builds? I haven't managed to find any information about it and people seem to use a mad old mixture of socket types for 12V. I'm fitting out a sailaway and dislike and distrust the cigarette lighter sockets; ideally I'd use the round pin AC sockets as they fit nicely over a standard backbox. And if round pin sockets can be used is it best practice to wire the earth to the negative/0V?
  4. Blockboard isn't the best bet. Fine as a kitchen worktop as it would never get the same attritional weathering as it would outside. English and European oak and sapele are the standard hardwoods for external joinery. We never used American oak. Where I worked we generally used sapele primed with aluminium primer where external joinery was to be painted. Sapele is cheaper but oak is perhaps, and I think probably is, more ethically sound. But for ethics I'd go for sapele if you want to paint it, its closer grain means a better paint finish. And do you really need 18mm thick boards? To me that seems a little thick for a flat panel if it's not very likely to get kicked and is backed by a steel door. Thick planks split and warp badly too. Unless of course you're putting a deep moulding on the panel, in which case go ahead. I hope that's helpful.
  5. You mentioned the Morco EUP11RS, do you have one or know anyone who does? Any good? I second the original question. I'm fitting out a basic sailaway to live aboard and CC with. It'll just be me on board so I'm not looking for anything too big/powerful - just something that provides enough for a shortish shower, is room-sealed and with a flue that fits under bridges. LUCE1923, please would you let me know if you find a battery ignition one? I'd be interested. I think nicknorman might be right though, everything I've seen so far is 230V AC. Forcali, Cointra and Ariston have room-sealed ones, all AC ignition, but as for which one might be good bet in terms of flow rate and flue I've no idea. Anyone have one of these appliances?
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