The Gravy Boater

I would agree that there is nothing wrong or underhand about limiting the current so long as it is clearly advertised. I think you are correct about some operators not wanting to bother with metering short term mooring. However there are some that do weekly and longer term mooring that is not metered - I think for the reasons I have previously stated - because the cost is covered by a higher base rate or because the mooring is remote, noisy or lacks full facilities so they use the leccy as a lure. In this world you never get something for nothing, but if you want something in particular and are prepared to compromise on other aspects, you can find a good deal.

Dirty. I never really experienced this in my travels... the only time shoreline has tripped for me is when I've been running my desktop computer and washing machine and forgot the immersion heater was still on. Maybe 2400 watts plus whatever the immersion draws.

Overnight is technically 24 hours, at least in my book... when I'm cruising my reason for going into a marina is to run my washing machine several times so... lots of leccy. But as I think is becoming clear some marinas apply different rules for short term and long stay moorers. The grey area is what constitutes short or long term, I guess. I've stopped at a number of marinas where the weekly rate includes unmetered electric and also spoken to long term moorers in the same marinas that are unmetered.

Braunston is one of the Marinas I have stopped at overnight where it was unmetered but I have no information on how they meter longer term moorers.

There are... but I'm keeping my powder dry until there are more responses.

I'm sure there are all sorts of shenanigans

I should qualify my OP by stating that I have never stayed long term in a marina, so it's possible some marinas have a different approach to short stay and long term moorers. There are three that I can remember and I think more that had unmetered electric.

My experience trundling around the network so far is that pre-paid card meters are very common but some marinas don't go there, either because their base mooring rate is high and covers the cost or because their location is unattractive for other reasons so they use 'free' hookup as a lure. I am unaware of any list of unmetered marinas / mooring options. So unless you can point me to one... let's make one here. If you can also comment on the general costs of the marina and any attempts to impose rules over power use, that would also be informative.

Very informative and useful replies. Cheers.

I have printed manuals for both the engine and gear box which appear to be the same as what is available online... both are full of scribbled errata from the previous owner which fills me with confidence! E.g. manual says use SAE 20/30, previous owner says ATF. All the filters are different but I guess that is probably just him suggesting cheaper alternatives. Yes it does clunk when shifting gear. When I bought the boat the engine mountings, drive plate and cutlass bearing were all replaced upon the advice of the surveyor.

If I remember correctly there are two parking areas at the top of Tryley locks. The one nearest the bridge is private and has signs indicating such but the adjacent one to the west is for the public. No signs at least. I left my car there for several days without incident and there were also camper vans etc.

The gearbox is a Technodrive TMC 60M and thanks for bringing up the stern gland as I have wondered. There is a seperate compartment under the gearbox and stern gland that has never had water in it so I'm confident it is not leaking (yet). It has been a year and I've had contradicting advice... your comment confirms that the stern gland will need maintenance. Should I change the gearbox oil? There is oil in it, the previous owner has said to use 'ATF'.

When I was first alerted to the possibility of diesel bug I took samples from the top and bottom of the tank and left them to settle to compare. There was never any seperation to indicate water but the stuff from the bottom of the tank was cloudy/scummy. I subsequently ballasted the boat to one side and drained 10 litres of diesel out of the lowest corner. Then resampled and it all looked good. Not had any issues since but who knows... I've been hitting it with Marine 16 and will repeat the siphoning before I head out next week.

I am not mechanically minded but wish to learn. Comments and tips welcome, particularly from any Vetus owners. I am the (proud?) owner of a 2008 Vetus M4.15 marinised Dutch tractor engine with - I am led to believe - the original single 95 amp alternator. Things I have been told: - Vetus engines are generally reliable - Vetus engine replacement parts are murderously expensive - If you want we'll fit a second alternator, for a combined output of 190 amps or splt between starter and domestics (nervous shuffling) - Double alternators on this engine are a bad idea (different source) Things I have experienced: - Oil change is reletavely easy but there is no drain or inbuilt pump. You have to suck it out through the dipstick hole. - There are three fuel filters. A pre-filter, the fuel filter and another little one. - Mine (at least) has a header tank for the coolant... it's a bit scummy but lately topped it up with antifreeze and doesn't appear to be loosing fluid. - I have had suspected diesel bug but through a regieme of filter changes, tank siphoning, Marine 16, keeping the tank full and eliminating all possible water ingress via the filler cap and vent it appears to have gone away. Questions: - My pre-filter has no drain. Is it a really good idea to fit a version that does to reduce filter changes? - I get a little bit of water in my engine bilge (not in the compartments to the side of the engine in the engine bay). Maybe a pint a day. The boat is a semi trad with a watertight pram hood. The oil and coolant levels are constant. My theory is this is from condensation off the engine... probable? - Does painting it yellow make it go faster?

I don't know which courier they use but my three large 180ah batteries arrived next day with the most extreme packaging I have ever seen. It took me 10 mins with Stanley's Knife to get at them and another hour to get rid of the pallet and all the packing. This is a good thing.

I had a good experience with Tayna Batteries in terms of the price I paid and the delivery/packaging, for what it's worth. Customer experience may vary. https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/

It's possible that Timmy Mallet is the solution to many things but I'm pretty sure he's not an authority on leaky greased nipples.

Just make sure you have a different provider for your phone than the one you use in your router, so you can always swap them at a pinch. The other benefit to being on a boat is if there is no/bad reception you can... move. I've been using 3mobile for a year. It's the cheapest unlimited option and has been fine in my experience, in the rare instances it has dropped I've used the EE sim in my phone. It's important to have a good router and an external omnidirectional antenna to get the best signal.

I work from my boat, continuous cruise and use a desktop/monitor. If you overspec your solar it will be enough for most of the year and offset the amount of time you have to run your engine or a generator in the winter. It's arguably a false economy staying out on the cut during the winter as you will end up spending a lot on fuel and however good your generator is the noise can be a distraction... if you're not too picky about where you moor there are reasonable deals with unmetered electric, so long as you don't abuse it (no electric heaters etc.).

Well craft insure are £100 cheaper so I will probably go with them. Thanks for all the replies folks.