Tasemu

Right, still too hot to touch but I have found what looks like a skin tank, no pipes appear to be ruptured at first inspection, but will report back with more when cool. I see the oil dipstick and will take a level inspection shortly. Cheers, calmed down a bit now, just had a bit of a panic when i ran into the smoke cloud.

BMC 1.8. Unsure about the cooling system sorry. Could it have overheated because the oil ran out? Not sure if the oil has run out though, too hot to touch right now.

Hello! Quite worried as our engine has just stopped running about 40 minutes after we started it to charge up the batteries. When i opened the cruiser stern to take a look, there was a LOT of smoke coming out of the engine bay. I'm going to let it all cool down before I do anything but i'm hoping I can get some advice on what might be going wrong here. Thanks for any and all help, i really hope it will start again.

I think this is an excellent idea, though i assume op would be needing to do it rather than suggest someone else to haha. ?

4: So if I wanted to heat my water I should ensure the pump is on and the rads are not isolated to ensure that it wont boil? Just checking I have it right. 5: I'm not sure about this, according to the marina guy i should have the pump running for it to work. So i'm assuming there is no siphon ability in the sytem or an override pipe. Is this very bad or just important that I run the pump always? Thanks for the help mate.

4: I'm not sure, i think you could turn them off by totally restricting the flow through them, or do you mean a valve to isolate them seperately? 5: There is a pump, it is 12v and controlled from the stern entrance. I believe it has to be running to circulate the water in the back boiler, is that bad? Thanks for all the advice everyone.

Hello again! I have a question I was hoping to get some advice on. I have used the search function to try and get as much info as possible but I am still unsure of the ramifications of this setup. I'm going to try and keep this concise with a few points and questions about a boat and my girlfriend and I are seriously considering buying. We have been living on boats since march, but our water system has been a morco instant gas hot water so we have no experience with rads and/or calorifiers. points: The boat is 52ft long There is a Morso Squirrel with a back boiler feeding 2 rads and a towel rail (i think) There is a calorifier fed by the engine and also the back boiler from the solid fuel stove questions: Is a back boiler a reliable option for heating our hot water when moored for 14 days? (ccers for now) Would running the engine while the fire is lit cause a risk of the engine being damaged or overheated? In summer, if we wanted hot water without melting in the heat, are we out of luck or can we run the engine in idle to get hot water? Is this setup ok, or will it result in luke-warm radiators and luke warm water? (broad question i know sorry) If this setup is bad, is there a way to improve it? could a diesel water heater be installed into this setup, or would that conflict with the other heating supplies? Sorry if this is a lot of questions. Thanks so much for any and all advice! Edit: accidentally rated my own thread 5 stars

Mmm, to be honest i've never had an issue as long I I'm not in the centre of Bath.

I know that hill, it's a monster.

You should be fine parking at Dundas, Ferry Lane (Claverton), Bathhampton near the school, and in bath its a little harder but there are quiet spots near the canal where not many cars park and the locals are friendly with boaters. (if you get my drift)

I've just been showing him this thread and trying to help, but yeah in this case we did, as there are no other cables in the engine bay at all that we could find that were disconnected, also the conduit ends where the replaced alternator needed to be installed. Not ideal i know. ?

Just tried moving the female spade connected to the IND socket but no luck, after revving the engine we still get no voltage jump. Maybe the connector is wrong but it goes under the engine and is in conduit with 2 other cables, both with ring terminals.

Is it ok if we dont have a rev counter? or is it required.

Hello!, I've been helping my friend install a new alternator onto his Isuzu engine. We are totally stumped on how to get this thing wired in. It is installed on the engine and the belt has been tensioned, however when we start the engine and rev it a bit the voltage on the batteries do not increase. I'm clueless about alternators and my friend has tried wiring it up as follows: + bolt terminal ----> +ve terminal on first leisure battery W bolt terminal ----> -ve terminal on first leisure battery AUX ----> he found a wire coming from the engine with a female spade connector which appears to connect to this, he tried with it connected and without it connected This is surely looking very newbie to you guys right now, but we are out of ideas and would really really appreciate any help or advice as he has had no power since he bought the boat. Cheers in advance for any and all help!

Hey, i've been looking for a good cigar macbook charger for my 2019 50 inch macbook pro but there aren't a lot of options out there yet it seems, its usb-c and needs 85w, i think its like 20v too. I have a sunshine solar 1500w inverter i'm going to install over the weekend and see if this helps. Will report back.

Sorry, i just read it now. * the diameter appears to be about 10mm2 approx * the length from the batteries i would imagine is 1-2 meters as it is the first socket from the batteries.

1: The inverter takes the 12v using a cigarette lighter plug, which goes into the wall socket, then supplies 230v AC to the laptop charger. 2: JESUS that's a bad type, i meant 12.5 - 12.9 (facepalm) Sorry, was a bad typo. I mean 12.5 - 12.9 no load no charging.

Sorry, yeah they are. should have stated that.

Hi there, i'll try to explain as fully as possible the issue i'm having. My girlfriend and I are living on a narrowboat that is 53ft long. It has 220ah of new sealed lead acid batteries which are topped up via an alternator attached to our BMC 1.8 engine. Generally we will have the batteries at a voltage of between 12.5 - 12.9 with the alternator off and no load. With this in mind, I am having real issues reliably charging my macbook. I have a small inverter that runs off a cigarette lighter plug which i'm using to plug the charger in. With the engine not running i am able to get minor charge before the inverter beeps and shuts down. I'm assuming this is due to low voltage cut-off which kicks in when i'm putting a load on the batteries. The charger appears to be 87 watts which should pull about 7 amps from the battery. This issue tends not to happen when I turn the engine on and charge the laptop. However I have noticed that sometimes the laptop will charge fairly well and within just over an hour or so, the laptop is reasonably charged. However other times I have noticed that I can charge the laptop for 2+ hours and see charge gains of little more than 10%. This is very confusing to me and there are a few likely factors I will include below but am unsure how may effect the performance. * Battery bank is 12v * little inverter looks quite old, but appears to work. * batteries are about 1 month old * batteries have never been allowed to go below 12.3v * unsure on the alternator output * Charging the laptop from the opposite end of the boat to the batteries appears to not work, maybe bad wire size calculations are causing a voltage drop too high? Any idea how I could check this with a multimeter? * Sometimes even with the engine running and charging the batteries, when i am charging the laptop I see the voltage in the battery bank start to drop as low as 12.8. Sorry if this is verbose and difficult to read, just wanted to include as much potentially relevant information as possible. Thanks for any and all advice anybody can offer me to hopefully solve this issue.

Those wago connectors look ideal, I hope they're big enough for the wire though. I had a look at them on ebay and couldn't find a size rating.

I believe so, if not it will just be a matter of extruding the housing out slightly.

The picture was just an example sorry, i do have a double cigar lighter socket.

Well i want it to look nice, i want to set these new ones into the wall flush rather than wiring them up to the 3 pin and having them hang out the wall. But that is an option worst case scenario.

Hello, I have bought some dual 12v cigarette lighter sockets which I want to install in our saloon. There are currently other types of 3-round-pin 12v sockets which I would like to try and use the same wire, or even replace these. The problem is that the wiring to these sockets are quite large, so daisy-chaining the multi cigarette lighter sockets doesn't appear doable with the yellow crimp slide-on terminals I have and they seem to be the only ones that fit the terminals on the sockets themselves. Am I missing something easy here? I just want to replace the old 3-pin sockets, or failing that, somehow tap into the line with new wire small enough to get my multi cigarette lighter sockets working. Any advice would be much appreciated!

I'm also seriously considering the AIO option as I believe I may be heading to an area that will not allow me to use my solid fuel stove... So i'm trying to find a good alternative... Throwing up between the smaller non-aio to try and minimise noise, or just get the aio and route the exhaust outside.