Kingdom Isambard Brunel

Its fixed iron work, not a hook or strapping point. There are several rivet in it and the end of the rubbing strip which may be for some internal fixing as well. Otherwise its decorative.

Welcome to the forum. I cannot recommend as I rarely cruise your waters. I suggest you ask the local boaters too.

Depends on how many radiators the boiler is feeding and how long the pipe runs are. If you have a large distance between the boiler and the bulk of the radiators then use 22mm for the runs to the radiators closest certainly. If the radiators are spaced out and close to the boiler I would only use 22mm to the first one or two. If the radiators are all connected to a common distribution manifold then 22mm to the manifold then 15mm to every radiator. You have to satisfy the flow requirements of the boiler at full output. The calorifier circuit should be 22mm if you intend using the boiler to heat it without heating any of the radiators in summer.

You stay central until a few boat lengths from the other boat. Maintain steering by not reducing power and move to your side of an imaginary center line in the canal passing the other boat with a foot or so between the boats. On a bend it is customary to allow the deepest draught hull to take the outside tack as the water will be deeper, still passing port to port of course. All this is fine until you meet the inexperienced boater who has forgotten which side to pass on! Just be sure that is not you!

The GI must be between the incoming earth wire from the shore line and the hull earthing bolt which must not be the same bolt as the battery negative earth point but close to. There must be no other earth wire from the shore line.

Seals Direct on the web?

Lactate Minimum Test.

Looks like something has just smashed it to me. Metal fatigue happens when metal is repeatedly bent/flexed.

Boat engine suppliers are not as finnicky as car dealers. Do your own maintenance but keep a log of exactly what you do, parts used and at how many hour run time if you have a gauge and the engine makers will be happy.

That is old! Try Metalastic bushes. You will need to work out the size.

The built in pump is replacing the drain plug in the bottom of the sump, very different from a vacuum sucking down the dip stick tube.

The stuff that wrecks engines is the sludge at the bottom of the sump which will contain metal shards and bearing material. Sucking through a narrow tube does not remove it. Pulling the plug out does.

Later PRM 260 and 280 gearboxes do not have the metal vent that the earlier 160 had. They have a plastic plug screwed in instead. I would be very surprised if there was anything wrong with this PRM260 box, it has bronze clutches which will withstand water contamination unlike the 160 which has fibre linings. As to how the gearbox got water in to it, this needs to be solved. The only practical way for water to get into the oil is a failed heat exchanger allowing engine cooling water into the oil passing through the heat exchanger. It all sounds like a failed drive plate or the splines in the center having worn away.

The majority of stainless steel water tanks are made from very thin sheet. They have large flat areas without bracing or embossed patterns so that they flex like balloons. It is common for them to boing and bang. The fact that this tank has recently been banging more than ever would suggest that it is imploding due to a partial vacuum inside caused by the vent being blocked and the pump trying to empty the tank. I fear that its is going to be expensive to repair. The very careful use of compressed air may restore its capacity.

Depth of the Trent is variable, in some places well over 3'7"!

Dip tube pick up pipe in the tank fallen off?

Uninspired steel work, the interiors are usually horrible with hollow ply bulkheads. If this is one of the Canaltime boats, they had tiny props and small engines, front escape windows, as there is no access to the bow through the forward bulkhead.

Check that the engine block is properly connected to the battery negative. If it is only earthing through the control cables and the shaft or exhaust it will not be correct.

Well their website has not been updated since 2022 so be very careful. They were on the Weaver so getting a boat out and onto the system will be problematical at present! They are likely to be only a fitter-out family business, not steel fabricators.

I would consider taking a hole saw to the ally flywheel housing to create an inspection port for an endoscope.

Sad. I bet there is more to this closure than we have been told. A serious problem for the Fairport festival though they have announced that they will be selling a reduced number of tickets this year, 6,000 instead of 20,000

Depends on the space to remove the gearbox which depends on the boat so its impossible to see without some photos. Most layouts allow gearbox removal in situ. You will need to support the rear of the engine as the flywheel housing probably has the rear mounts on it.

It looks to be over advanced to me. Retarded a long way results in white smoke, advancing from there should make it run cleaner and smoother. Over advance will make it harsher running with a bark to the exhaust. The problem with this engine in a boat is that we want it to run smoothly at very low revs, not what it was designed to do specifically. Why is there no torsion bar in the pump? I can see no reason for its omission, the drive is the same with either the hydraulic or the mechanical governor. Without it there will be backlash as the pump drive shaft is floating.

I went the replacement joints route and found one was off a VW van and the other was a Porsche. The big problem is the splined shaft which wears badly. GKN could not supply it! You can cut the spline off an old CV joint or drive shaft if it will fit the splines in the CVs.

M&S cafe?