starman

Yes, I've thought about the fibre washer option - though I've read criticisms of doing this elsewhere. It's curious how there's not one 'correct' answer - and using great dollops of gloop or PTFE seems a regular solution. The glories of traditional plumbing, eh!

If tapered into parallel is ok then that’s certainly a route - I’ll probably have to go copper and compression though as I’m tight on space round the tank.

(Replying to Nickorman) I could but the tappings in the tank are female.

The female take-offs on the cauli are 1/2 bsp parallel. To make a decent seal with 1/2-15mm connectors do I use parallel threaded fittings or tapered threaded ones? I’ve seen advice pointing to both (though using parallel seems to include wrapping with multiple turns of PTFE which seems bodgy to me). Apologies for the endless queries - I used to just get on with this stuff. Increasing age seems to bring increasing self doubt ??

How should I plumb the flow and return on the twin coils of my (vertical) calorifier? One from the engine, the other from the Webasto. It always seemed logical to me to feed in hot supply at the upper and the cooled exit at the lower of each coils. But on various diagrams (including Surecal) I’ve seen it the other way - hot at the bottom of each coil. Is there a correct way? And I’m presuming the engine fed coil is the lower coil and the Webasto the upper one. Correct?

One coil is to/from engine; the other to/from Webasto. The plastic pipe really isn't flexible enough - the cauli has to sit in a corner of the bathroom. And yes, pulling the immersion out is another constraint!

I'm re-plumbing my vertical twin-coil calorifier. It's a rather elderly though still serviceable thing but the connections come out at all angles - there are coil connections at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, the cold feed at about 7 o/c and the immersion at 6 o/c. It's a mare to install in my small space! I need to come off the coil connections, turn 90 deg then probably go into flexible hose to get me to the regular plastic pipework. Ditto for the cold feed. How can I achieve this with minimum fittings? The coil connectors on the cauli are parallel threaded (I think) so would my best starting point be with 90 deg tap connectors? And if I'm going to end up in 15mm plastic pipework what size flexy hose? Thanks

Which one did you buy in the end - the CDA?

Yes the 230v fan is another irritation - and very hard to avoid on built-ins. I guess it’s a safety feature. We used to leave our oven door open after cooking to get the oven cooled quicker - and then kept tripping over it.

I think you’re wrong on two points: single ovens often have a second burner inside the top for grilling. On gas ovens most of these were also gas (we had one on our last boat) but now seem to be almost universally electric - probably because gas grills were useless. All-gas built in ovens are hard to find - I know; we are also looking for one.

I don't think he's wrong. 'S' is a conjunction. As the OP's post demonstrates, it is completely superfluous at the start of a sentence. Just because people use it doesn't make it correct. 'So I was asked by a colleague today, whilst discussing my life choice, “so Is the correct verb, for what you narrowboaters do, cruise or sail?”. He went on to ask whether one captains or navigates a narrowboat. On both counts I instinct gave an answer, but it got me thinking if I was right.'

The fridge is 5m from the batts so seemingly my 6mm should be ok.

Ah yes, apologies didn’t read your reply properly. Good: I’ve got plenty of 6mm cable but no 10mm.

What they actually say in their chart is: CABLE LENGTH (metres) (distance from battery to fridge) (Apologies for the random box below - I tried in vain to reproduce the box.) As you can see it specifically isn't out-and-back; hence my confusion.

A very basic 12v fridge query - is cable size determined by distance between appliance and power supply (as Shoreline seem to suggest) or total out-and-back length of cable?

From The Economist: “It’s not at all uncommon for the same executives who pride themselves on downsizing and speed-ups on the shop floor, or in delivery and so forth, to use the money saved at least in part to fill their offices with feudal retinues of basically useless flunkies. They have whole teams of people who are just there, for instance, to design the graphics for their reports, write accolades for in-house magazines no one reads, or in many cases, who aren’t really doing anything at all ...But they are kept on because the prestige and even sometimes the salary of any given manager is measured by how many people he has working under him.” From: https://www.economist.com/open-future/2018/06/29/bullshit-jobs-and-the-yoke-of-managerial-feudalism?al_applink_data={"target_url"%3A"https%3A\%2F\%2Fecon.trib.al\%2Fgsz7RBX"%2C"extras"%3A{"fb_app_id"%3A128869720483178}%2C"referer_app_link"%3A{"url"%3A"fb%3A\%2F\%2F\%2F%3Fapp_id%3D128869720483178"%2C"app_name"%3A"Facebook"}}

Silly question maybe but can I use a brass fitting in a polypropylene water tank? I need to fit a 3/4in/ 19mm hosetail fitting and pretty much all the plastic ones are 20mm.

Why do you think it's better? (I'm soon in the market for a pump.)