36national

i got that you can go to https://canalrivertrust.org.uk/boating/licensing/boat-check and check the boat is licensed but it wont tell you who the license holder is Its the broker covering their ass. Will the broker let you contact the vendor?

wow what a bottomer. On the plus side if you didnt go into reverse till you were in the lock thats almost certainly where it is. You might find the diameter pitch and handedness of your prop on a survey report if you have one but you need more info than that. Id do all of the above suggestions to try and find it and see which works first. Thats a load less hassle than trying to spec and obtain a new prop, plus you stand to save a good few quid, plus I reckon you got a pretty good chance. Which lock are you at? Good luck and the humour of dripping wet shivering brothers approaching the early stages of hypothermia can often be restored by the repeated application of large brandies to the back of the throat.

pedants corner. according to "ike" f does indeed = ma. my boat weighs roughly 22 tonnes which means that the M bit is in fact pretty damn big. 4 mph is a speed but the "a" bit refers to acceleration, or perhaps more pertinently deceleration, of the type caused by hitting, say for instance, and to cite just one possibility, a lock. to go from 4 mph to 0 in a couple of seconds means that the "a" bit is in fact pretty damn big too. multiply one pretty damn big number by the other pretty damn big number and the answer is ugly by any stretch of the imagination

£ 1.7 s 1.3 d 0.4 too much

on the one hand y can blame the demise of an arcane currency system for peeps being bad at maths on the other hand y can argue that it was never a problem coz VAT wasn't introduced till until 1973, 2 years after decimalisation. on the third hand (the one yer mother kept hidden from you after you were born but would be soooo useful soooo much of the time) VAT in 1973 was set at 10 percent which was easy to work out. so double it

i have a 60 foot boat on the leeds and liverpool and the locks are ok (watch the front of the boat with leaky gates going up), but the swing bridges are bad for a single hander as all the controls are on the wrong side. The manual ones you can moor on the landing, cross bridge, unlock it and set it swinging then run back across the bridge and try to give it the right amount of extra shove so it comes to rest fully open. If it doesnt push it open with your pole. Then go through moor again, and the bridges have a recovery chain so you can pull them closed recross the bridge and lock up. Unfortunately the end of the bridge is at the same height as your windows so if the wind starts to blow it closed as you go through it could get a bit messy. The automated ones also have the controls offside and are the pits. My technique is moor, cross bridge, insert key and open bridge. Fly back across the canal on my magic carpet and then go through the bridge. ( actually i wait for a dog walker to come along and ask them to help ) there is footage on you tube of someone single handing an automated bridge on the L&L LoL you could try it if you like. I tried mooring off side to do a couple but would rather not smash my boat up thankyou very much. Despite this the Leeds and Liverpool is absolutely beautiful. Ill say it again. The Leeds and Liverpool is absolutely beautiful. So is most of the Rochdale for that matter hard work though. Single hand that and you'll have muscles on yer muscles that you didnt know existed. 60 feet will go down the Caulder and Hebble but its very tight. How sure are you that 60 feet is 60 feet and not 60 foot 4 '' coz its that tight. Also I have a trad with an eliptical stern. If you have a cruiser with a square stern then the 60 foot boat in a 57 foot lock trick may not work. If you come to the Caulder and Hebble from the Rochdale canal then the shortest locks are the first 2 you come to, Salterhebble top and middle. If you get through there then you can get through the rest. Otherwise its back over the Pennines. Or a crane and low loader. The Leeds and Liverpool is absolutely beautiful

when i rig a booby trap i like to do a good job and if youre gonna destroy something properly why only do it once when you can do it twice. When the little red button is pressed a sea cock opens sinking the boat. Subsequently a depth charge detonates clearing the canal bed of obstructions to permit the passage of other boaters and creating an interesting waterspout for the gratification of any onlookers. Of course to obtain the most spectacular effects the button should be pressed when in a lock. Suggest Lemonroyd.

na if it blows up first theres no boat to sink to reply to the op i did the same with my surveyor and learnt stacks questions will flow depending on what he finds. watch as he reads the hull thicknesses, you know what its supposed to be, and whether there has been any wastage, ask if he would have any concerns and whether anything needs tackling as a matter of priority and see what he thinks a fair price is

if you press that little red button the boat sinks..............................................then blows up

that is a fair point, im not planning a rewire, it all works just trying to understand how the boat is wired and yes sooner or later ill have to crawl around tracing things but nice to get a handle on it first

cant find it (but that doesnt prove anything) would it be common to have a relay triggered from the ignition switch which isolates the starter when the ignition is off, boat is 1992 also if the vsr method is used wouldnt it make more sense to charge the starter before domsetic, id rather be dark than stuck!

How is a boat wired so that the alternator charges both the leisure and starter batteries but using the leisure bank doesn't discharge the starter?