wicksie

Hi, thanks for your reply! Firstly, these batteries are not supposed to be discharged below 20%. They had been allowed to flatten in a warehouse somewhere. The installer, was supposed to install, wire up, calibrate (min-max) and set a parameter of minimum discharge of 4% above the 20%. Then commission the system. It failed to calibrate. He said batteries one and three had cells in that stopped them from joining in calibration. He left, leaving us with one functioning battery. He needed to return with a special DC charger. A week later, he used said charger on the two and left the three to calibrate over the weekend. No improvement, in fact, he asked me over the phone to check lights on the batteries. No. 1 had no lights on. Calibration was stuck, incomplete. Pressing button on right of No.1 battery started it up, but no.3 shut down. After a while I got all three with lights on. System was put on Calibration again but got stuck again. After another week he returned, charged them all for longer (to approx 35%). This time Calibration was a success. Except performance of 1&3 is subpar compared to no.2

Hi folks, My 3 batteries arrived flat as pancakes 2 had each got damaged cell which have taken three weeks to get a successful calibration. All the batteries are different in soc, as much as 20% between them. Company won't take them back and tell me they are okay. Even though I am of the belief these are, and will always perform substandard. Please, any experts out there, that can reassure me?

Hilperton on the K&A

Hi Folks, I have a perkins MC42 that needs an overhaul can anyone recommend a company or mechanic? Steve

Whilst waiting for the verdict on the alternator I have cleaned and checked contacts and connections. I got a call from adverc, it was faulty, damaged in transit, fragments of the brushes inside. Connected up and all seems okay. Thanks for all your help and am wondering if there is a for sale part on this site or whether anyone has considered it as I have lots of boat things to sell? Best wishes, Steve

Got a new bulb and holder and connected it up but still no illumination. So rigged a cable from the bulb holder to D+ still didn't work, disconnected the D+ end and just touched the B-. it worked Have sent the new alt back for testing as Mark from Adverc agrees it may have been damaged in transit. meanwhile will continue to clean and check the multiblocks. Thank you for your help, Mark gregory... thanks for that nugget, that once happened on a previous (kestrel) boat. Diode was supplied by adverc and it seems to be okay.

Hi Paul sorry my explanation was probably just confusing the issue, I measured at the input terminal on the diode which is where the cable from the alternator connects and the connection B+ just to check the cable was okay... both ends said 0.58v the domestic terminal said 12.8v and the starter said 12.7v I took the connectors off the bulb holder and tested each cable, I was looking to confirm there was voltage going to the bulb holder, is this clearer? As the bulb is okay am I right in thinking it must be the holder?

Hi Folks, There is only 0.58v coming out of the Alt now after changing regulator for a new one and cleaning cables/ connections, red light does not work so changed the bulb from oil light as that worked, red one worked in oil light but oil one didn't so checked whether I had anything going to bulb holder there is 12.7v showing when ignition is on on the center spade connector but nothing the other side so will buy new holder and see what happens........ Thanks again

Thank you everyone, Great advice and will go down to percy and check all the things mentioned. I was concerned that getting a new battery would not solve the problem and it was the regulator on the alternator, but I shall go through the cables and eliminate all that you have mentioned. Thank you, Steve

Hi, I went to my boat yesterday and discovered that the starter battery was down to 10.45v and would not start. I then used my jump lead (with isolator) and started it easily and ran the engine for 2 hrs. Domestic said 13.7v and starter said 13.4v after the engine and isolator switches had been off about ten minutes . I returned today to find starter saying 12.84v but it didn't have enough juice to turn over the engine. reading went down to 10.25v then back up to 12.74v so tried again, no joy. used the jump lead again and ran the engine and took a reading at the starter battery there was 15.78v going in and when I to a reading at the diode where the live cable from the alternator connected it read 17.45v. I quickly turned it of. I have an adverc management system with 90amp alternator with split diode, has the regulator gone crazy? Steve from perseverance

shoreline

Diperk told me it should run at 1100rpm, at 800 it stalls .......when I first got it it ran at 1000rpm

Can anyone help me identify the engine mounts for the MC42, the R&D replacement ones have failed after one season. The original ones were thrown away and had 10mm bolts, the R&D ones were 12mm so the holes in the bearer had to be enlarged. What ones do you have on yours? Steve

Hi Folks, I too am a proud owner of a 'Perky' and my only two problems are with the engine mounts and engine paint colour. Can anyone enlighten mean as to the original Duffields engine mounts and colour? Many thanks Steve

I use rock oil light for mine, it is a happy machine, although have heard morris is good too

Hi, I had the default 45 amp alternator (duffields)when I first bought my boat with a kestral management system and split relay. 4 X 110ah domestic and 1 starter and had to cruise at least 6-8 hours to fully charge the bank. When one of my batteries from the domestic started playing up and burnt out the relay I had a adverc put in and their 90amp alternator with a split diode. Now with the help of two x 100watt solar panels and a smartgauge my system quite often (especially on sunny days) tells me at 9pm that the domestic is 100% charged so when leaving the 230volt fridge on over night it is still 85-89% next morning. I am very pleased with this as I used to have to switch the fridge off overnight.

Hi Folks, I have the metal air breather and use the black and white extractor filters (the ones that are as thick as those green scourers) and I cut them into strips , lasts ages....years even. When the engine starts smoking on start up I just change the strip, it really makes a difference. My biggest problem is the silly plastic connector for the breather pipe from the rocker cover, it keeps coming loose or leaks oil. Must try and find a better solution. Steve

Diperk are brilliant, keep treating my MC42 as a tractor engine tho.........and can't seem to help with any of the modifications duffield made. My biggest beef is the air filter, I am sure it isn't the best for this engine. Any ideas anyone?

`I get my oil and fuel filters from diperk, together with the rocker cover gasket and water system rubber hoses, fan belts.....the list is endless really and they are so fast with delivery. I have had issues with my engine mounts, they are twenty years old and does anyone know what make their mc42 has as the only ones I can find similar are the shear type from R&D but they have 12mm bolts whereas mine has 10mm. Can any one help? steve

Here's our gorgeous boat

] http://s30.photobucket.com/albums/c313/wicksie1v/?action=view&current=bathbrace.jpg[/img] Hi Folks, on my narrowboat is this white plastic covered corner brace about 9"x 6" x 30mm..... I need one for the other end to stop water running onto floor. Does anyone know where I can find one? Best wishes to you all for 2012, steven

It was the safety examiner that put the idea in my head!!! He said 'pressing the button on that saved him 30 mins and would be a good way for me to be able to check the system' and it had to be installed as close to the regulator as possible. best wishes, steve

Thank you all for your time and advice, I will try the multiple adapter and see how I go as there is about 2 and 3/8 of an inch to play with before it hits the filter. Again thanks and any more options would always be appreciated. Anyone fitted an Alde bubble tester in their anchor lockers? best wishes, steven nb,. perseverance

Hi Folks, Am hoping someone can help and give me some idiot proof advice, I have a perkins MC42 and when I had the boat surveyed (before I bought it), the surveyor put in his report that an oil pressure gauge was recommended. I am now seeing the advantage and have the time and money so how do I do it? Can I connect onto the alarm and light sender or do I have to tee into somewhere along the oil pipe coming up from the sump? Is there a 2-1 connector that I can install where the original sender is and fit two senders, one for alarm and one for either capillary or electrical? Has anyone done this and is able to help? Thanks for talking the time to read this!

Hi Phylis, thank you for your reply and common sense. It is actually my headlight/tunnel light that needs replacing and was just wondering if there was an LED equivalent out there....at the mo it is a halogen 55w bulb