Bewildered

I think I will give up on the idea for now. I really can't be bothered will fitting another shunt. Found it interesting that the battery strap for the shunt that came with BM2 was only 8" long; this means that they expect you to mount the shunt within 4-5" (allowing for bending the stap etc) of the batteries negative terminal. Ok if your battery is adjacent to a bulk head that you can fix the shunt to and your battery's negative terminal happens to be that side of the battery, pretty useless if not. Fortunately I had a couple of spare 12" battery straps that I bolted together (heavily taping up the join) until I can get around to buying an appropriate one. Why do they supply it with such a useless bit of kit in the box? They would be better of not bothering and instead stating on the box "strap not supplied" Although if I ever do fit the second shunt the stupidly short strap may come in handy

Should a tunnel light face A.) straight ahead B.) slightly up C.) slightly down I would have thought slightly up to light up the tunnel roof but I stand to be corrected

Would it not be better to have tunnel lights work in the same way as car lights? Main beam with a dip headlight option for meeting oncoming boats I suspect this would mean a rewire for most boats, but it is only one additional wire and an off-on-on switch to replace the original.

A search for P G Taylor boat builder on canal plans boat listing page doesn't find him

Yes therein does lie the reason, it is there and it stares me in the face doing nothing. It is an instrument on the panel directly in front of me while steering the boat, if I can get it working without causing problems I would obviously like to. This is why I asked the question, will it cause problems?

I would of thought that the back boiler on the stove would overheat if the hot water was not circulating and cold feeding into it.I would like to keep the fire burning overnight, at present this means leaving the pump running and draining the batteries

I may well try that, but I will first wait to see if anyone comes up with a reason for not trying it; don't want to risk a brand new BM2

I also don't want to blow the boiler but I do want to be able to keep the fire in over night. I did toy with the idea of a pipe thermostat, and fitting a cheap 300w plug in inverter to power the 230v pump, with the thermostat cutting the 12v supply to the inverter.

The consensus so far seems to be that it won't work unless all the feed is up hill. I was under the impression that as long as the initial output feed rose upwards the hot water would rise along this length drawing/syphoning cold to fill the void left by the departing hot water. And as the cold is drawn it also pulls the hot in behind it helping the flow. So as long as there is a reasonable rise and length to the outgoing hot pipe it should start this process for the whole system, cold being drawn along the length of the system to replenish the evacuating hot. Or am I completely misunderstanding how this works?

I wasn't sure how delicate the measurements of the BM2 were, hence the question. I don't need another ammeter, it just happens to be there on the instrument panel and I thought it might be a good idea to be able to read it whilst at the helm

I think I may have enough battery monitoring equipment now. While fitting the BM2 I found an old shunt that was not connected to the batteries. It did however have a couple of small wires attached. On my control panel there is an analog ammeter that has never worked since I've had the boat. When I get time I will do a continuity test on these wires to see if they are from this meter. Question, is there any reason why I can't wire the old analog ammeter across the shunt for the BM2? Edit to say, I like to lay on my side whilst reading the meters

Forgot to mention there is also a safety valve on the flow pipe behind the stove

Couldn't convert them or post them directly. Missed the edited post about more post options. Took photos of the screen and posted them instead Thanks

Hopefully I will be able to post the images, drew them on word but could not convert them so took photos of the screen. Ok so I have a 70' boat bought last October, had problems with the heating, system was dry, when topped up pump wouldn't run. Replaced 12v pump, still wouldn't work so eventually stuck in a 230v pump, seems to work ok but obviously uses power. I don't want to run the pump all night so I want to change it to thermosyphon. The existing layout is like so From the left of the drawing the pump is under the front steps around 2'6" from the side of the boat there is a further 10' to the stove, the first radiator is 10' from the stove then there is 25' between rads 1&2, 8' between rads 2&3, then around 4' to the back of the boat, then around 6' across the width of the boat, 9' more to the calorifier then 10' to the bathroom rad, then of course the full run back to the pump. The header tank is on the cruiser stern about 6" below roof level. I assume the header tank is on the flow pipe and not the return but I haven't as yet been bothered to pull the washing machine out to check. The pipe runs from the boiler to floor level all around the boat What I would like to do is this Take the feed pipe diagonally up to just below the gunnels then run under the gunnels (feeding each rad from the top) and dropping down to pick up the original feed pipe after the 3rd rad. From the stove to the gunnels would be a run of about 10' rising around a foot. Join the return pipe to bypass the pump. I was thinking of having the return valve on the first rad set about a 1/4 open the second rad about 1/2 the 3rd rad about 3/4 and the bathroom rad both fully open The boat is plumbed in large bore plastic, 32mm possibly? There is a valve at the calorifier to turn it off in the Summer so the engine doesn't heat the rads As far as I can tell, if the feed pipe rises the hot water will flow and draw the cold in to the bottom. Ok so questions. 1. Will this thermosyphon over this distance? 2. After the run along the gunnels will the hot then travel at floor level to the last radiator? 3. Should the return be taken directly back to the stove? I was thinking leave it and join it at the pump in case I need to re plumb it in 4. Can I join at the pump with a full bore valve so that the pump can be included just by shutting the valve off? 5. I assume the header tank will stay as part of a thermosyphon system? 6. Is my assumption about setting the return valves correct? ( the bathroom rad does not have a thermostatic valve; the valves will be permanently set to open fully) I'm sure there will be more question arise as this thread progresses I thank you in advance for your pearls of wisdom

I wish to convert my heating system to thermosyphon, before I do this I wanted to ask for advice, so I drew up the existing heating layout and the proposed new layout in Microsoft word. How do I post these two files? Do I need to covert them to a different format first? Both drawings are in A4 landscape view.

I have a Captains hat; it has an anchor on the front, my one also has a letter W sewn on in front of the anchor W⚓️ I like to let people know the kind of idiot they are dealing with

I get this all the time. Sometimes if feels like I'm going up hill and sometimes like I'm going down hill. Weird thing is that when I feel like I'm climbing a hill it also feels like the boat is slowing down, and when it feels like I'm going down the the boat seems to speed up!

Ok then what is the correct procedure when after using a lock you close the gates,happily cruise off, and then happen to glance over your shoulder to find that the gates have opened of their own accord? Do you a.) moor up, return to the lock, shut the gate again, and add or remove water necessary to hold gate in place Or b.) think, sod it, I've closed them once and complied with the rules, and just keep cruising

It says posts to the United Kingdom and the United States, how much would it cost and how many stamps would you need?

They seem to have stopped doing it now, but a few years ago bank tellers would ask what the money was for if you went in to draw largish sums of cash out. They never did like my standard answer of "drugs and prostitutes". I know this questioning was to do with money laundering rules but I was taking cash out, not trying to put large sums in. And what the hell has it got to do with them what I spend my money on?