Rob L

I have a 38hp Isuzu 4LC1. Mine has a total of three ID plates attached, mostly obscured by the air filter and other accessories. I managed to get some pics by careful positioning of a smartphone which then allowed me to read the plate, just. In any case, the manual you need is the one linked to above. It is just a case of identifying which model you have and the specs are all there. Page 17 for model identification info. I think you have what you need in that you know it is the 4LE1. I carried out a basic service (oil/fuel filters) yesterday on my engine, for the 3rd time in as many years. It is a pretty simple job even for novice like me. I recommend finding a good chandler who stock all the right parts (I use Wharfhouse narrowboats). This list http://www.enginesplus.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/2015-dealer-list-Junev1.pdf suggests that Aqua narrowboats might be closest to you. Good luck.

I don't know much about WW2 a/c, as I'm a babe of the jet age. But I do know that no amount of paint is gonna make a Typhoon look like a Spitfire. If, as has been suggested, you are referring to the black and white stripes on the wing and fuselage, these are D-Day markings. These were painted on allied a/c for the Normandy landings to identify them as friendly to the allied troops on the ground. This was to reduce the possibilty of friendly fire incidents. I imagine that was invaluable to the Typhoon pilots as they were mostly engaged in ground attack.

A quick search on t'internet reveals the answer as given above by nicknorman. - Speed limit varies depending on the river in question and depending on the expected flow. Speed is measured 'over the river bed'. Low flow sections have a low speed limit, often 4 or 5mph, and generally the same in either direction. High flow sections have higher limits, typically higher downstream than upstream. For example, the Avon; 6mph downstream and 4mph upstream. This caters for the higher speed over the river bed (being an aviator, I'd call it groundspeed), when motoring downstream. Tidal sections on some rivers are significantly higher limits, e.g. 15mph on the Great Ouse. I guess the significant point here is that you should check before you go. EA website has information on the rivers under their juristriction, and others are only a Google search away. Be aware of strong stream advice too. I learned a sobering lesson about that last year on the Stour!

I forgot to mention the 'does it fit?' question. Sofabedbarn identify which of their range are suitable for narrowboats. Ours came in sections which fitted easily through the front doors. The delivery guys assemble the whole thing for you at no additional cost. Made them the obligatory cuppa tea though. I guess that they are not the only ones that offer such service, but it might well be worth considering companies that are familiar with how their products are suited to the NB market.

I have just bought this router (also from Solwise) in order to share the wifi around the boat. http://www.solwise.co.uk/wireless-usb-usbwifirpt-3000.html Haven't had a chance to test it onboard yet, but it worked well when connected to my home wifi. It has a USB connection for your external antenna, and two ethernet ports for your laptops. Or of course, they can be connected via its own wifi as well as iPads and iPhones etc. The unit is much smaller than I anticipated; about the size of a tobacco tin, so it should be fairly inobtrusive.

I notice that the link you posted was to Sofabedbarn. We bought a Kingston 'click clack' sofabed from them last year having seen them at the Crick show. http://www.sofabedbarn.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/thesofabedbarn/_Kingston/487314/Kingston-Clic-Clac I can vouch for their service, they were excellent. As far as comfort is concerned, the sofabed is at least as comfy as our double bed, possibly even better. If you or your guests are likely to use the bed often, I would recommend that you look for something similar with a deep mattress. The majority of fold away sofabeds seem to have a thin piece of covered foam which can be uncomfortable in my experience. If you can wait till end of May, why not check if Wilsons and Sofabedbarn will be at the Crick show again. That would be a perfect opportunity to try before you buy.

I have dismantled the cratch boards and brought them home whilst the boat is in the dock having some work done. So this project is being worked on at home in the shed. So soaking the end grain and varnishing indoors are all possible. I still have quite a bit of sanding to do before I get started on any oil or varnish finishes. The front upright board appears to have faired worst of all due to weathering, but still looks recoverable. I'll get some oxalic acid this week if I can, and probably have a go at the weekend. Thanks everyone for the advice so far. Rob

I will definitely try the oxalic acid. I have seen an impressive demo of it at work here: http://www.constructionchemicals.co.uk/Oxalic-Acid.html?gclid=CODx5LfiwMMCFSfLtAodmiUAIQ I also read that it is in various demestic cleaning agents, including Barkeeper's Friend. Not sure that it would have the same results as obviously the cleaning agents have other ingredients in them. Might be worth trying on a piece of scrap though!

Thanks Mike, I will look into the Oxalic acid crystals. I haven't finished all the sanding yet, so will get everything stripped first, and asses the damage. Thanks for the tip regarding stain and varnish. I agree about the stain; little at first, if any at all. I would like to keep the wood reasonably light and just bring out the natural colour and grain. My original perspex is indeed dull, scratched and slightly yellowed. I am definitely leaning towards replacing it with safety glass. Thanks again for the advice. Rob

I am stripping down my cratch board and plank to bare wood to give them an overhaul. - I did not like the look of the coloured varnish used by the previous owner/manufacturer. I am no woodworking expert, and I am a newbie narrowboater, so please bare with me. The bare wood looks like it might be Sapele. It has a slight reddish tint to it that I quite like. The general condition seems ok, but there are a couple of areas that have blackened slightly, presumably where moisture has penetrated. But these are small and the wood seems sound. I would like some general advice on how to stain and/or varnish the wood to give it a nice appearance and good weatherproofing quality. Can anyone suggest a good stain or varnish to use for the job, and should I treat the small blackened areas first? Also, it currently has perspex sheet in the triangular 'windows'. This has discoloured and scratched. Should I replace with new perspex, or would safety glass be a better option?

Hi folks, another newbie here. After several canal and river holidays over the last few years, I finally took the plunge and bought my own boat. Scylla is a 10 year old 58ft semi-trad. We love it already, and thanks to lots of advice picked up as a guest on this forum, it helped to make the purchase an easier decision. I have lots to learn, but I have been so taken by the willingness of everybody, both here and on the canal, to impart their knowledge and their patience with newbies like me. Thanks to all those who have helped me so far, whether knowingly or not.