Tony Brooks

The blue and red is only paint applied by the mariniser. A photo may or may not allow us to identify the make and model, especially the back. The red engine photo was put up to illustrate a third type of "slotted" adjuster bracket. I don't think yours is like that one. The chances are it is just as you describe, a bracket with a long slot in it.

That might be caused by no wind so no venturi effect across the top of the chimney. I think temperature inversions in the atmosphere may cause a similar effect.

It must have a current BSS certificate unless it is less than four years old, in that case the relevant RCD/RCR paperwork stands in for the BSS. As soon as the RCD/RCR is mentioned you will get a lot of conflicting advice but in general post 1997? boat shoudl have been built to the RCD/RCR specifications. There were exemptions for self fitted out craft if sold 5 years after being put into service but I am not sure if the latest revision carried this exemption on. The RCR/RCD now also comes into play if major modifications are made to a boat. It is illegal to sell a boat that is subject to the RCD/RCR without the correct paperwork. It is not 9as far as I know) illegal to buy one. The chances of getting prosecuted for such a sale of an inland boat are small to almost non-existent but selling it is still an offense. Now stand by for slew of posters saying they ignore the RCD/RCR so I would advise you to study the EU's Recreational Craft Directive and the UK Recreational Craft Regulations. and decide the risks you are happy to take yourself. The BSS is no guarantee the boat is safe when bought and neither is the RCD/RCR - think MOT for cars.

One other thing whilst talking about adjusting alternator belts. I don't think this will apply to LadyG's engine. Unceasingly the slotted adjusting bracket is fitted with a jacking screw that pushes on the bolt through the slotted bracket. When fitting a new belt the jacking screw will need unscrewing. It makes tensioning easier because the screw holds the tension on the belt rather than trying to use a lever to keep tension on the belt and tighten the clamp bolt at the same time.

It might be two pivot bolts, I don't know the details of the engine, one at the front and one at the back of the alternator.

How a\bout a horizontal one: https://www.screwfix.com/p/white-straight-manual-radiator-valve-15mm-x-1-2-/20141 Not so easy if you have to use the existing Ts of the feed or return pipe.

It was not the neutral bit I was questioning. I added neutral for clarity ref CaRT regs. It was the at idle that I was questioning. For both the load on the engine and alternator cooling it is best to run at maximum charge rate revs. It also seems that the Beat Crankaft problems may, in part. be attributed to running at idle.

May I add: and about 8 hours plus once a week - especially mid October to April if you have some solar, if no solar then all 52 weeks of the year.

Especially as arguably the majority of boats need to run their engine, if they are not using central heating, to heat the domestic water each day. Heating water and battery charging simultaneously. If you are using and immersion heater to heat your water I trust you turned if off before doing you consumption test. Definitely turn it off as soon as you disconnected the shore line. If you don't you are asking for battery problems and its load might upset the generator if you buy one. Note - some people with large solar arrays can use them to run an immersion heater in summer.

The running the engine in neutral at idle for charging is not a good idea for a number of reasons we don't need to go into right now. If you have an ammeter then set the revs to the highest ammeter reading and gradually reduce the revs as the charge falls whist mainlining the highest charge rate. If you do not have an ammeter then unless you intend to buy new batteries frequently or waste fuel you need one plus a digital voltmeter or some kind of battery monitor. With no ammeter charge at between 1200 and 1500 rpm out of gear and gradually reduce to about half that over the next two hours. Please study that battery piece at the start of the maintenance section and feel free to ask about anything you don't understand.

Not that I know but could you post a link or a photo. Some time ago here I think there was a reference to a company doing GRP cruisers in that area. The moulds and plugs for many such cruisers were passed around form company to company each making comparatively minor changes so you could well find out the it is based on a better known make.

I don't think he intends to control the pulse width with the SU, he will leave the pump to alter its pulse rate to suite the fuel delivery he sets on the control valve, much like the carburettor ona car. Using the SU pump keeps it simple and easy to understand. Incidently as someone who did his apprenticship on Austin and the BMC cars I would not agree the pumps were as unreliable a syou imply, but certainly more unreliable than the AC mechanical pumps. However a swift whack with a spanner usually sorted them until you had a chnace to clean and adjust the contacts.

My impression is that the tow line was far too short so it was preventing the narrowboat skipper pushing his bow to either side. If you look at the line length used by proper tug skippers, RNLI, and the Navy all seem to be far longer. Whilst it is never a good idea to make light of difficulties I think it is also important not to make them seem worse than they actually are. Unfortunately the few YouTube things I have seen and the odd TV program seem to exaggerate the problems.

When I| first watched that video I got the impression theist the tow skipper was deliberately turning to put the narrowboat semi-beam on to the wash rather than trying to turn it more bow into the wash.

Just been looking at images. The 35 I found does have a leak off "self bleeding" return cunning along the the top of the injector pumps via banjos. I can't see why that would not quickly purge any air from the system.

One way or another I would expect an Isuzu to already have that or a similar feature, maybe bleeding from the injector pump inlet back to the tank. Bit maybe not having individual injector pumps. If there is no such provision the a bleed back from the filter is a good idea.