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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. As it's a polly-V belt this does not apply to you, but it is for those using ordinary V belts. The toothed, notched, or cogged belts with teeth around the inside are made to drive around smaller pulleys so if you change one for a plain belt that then slips or you have a plain V belt that is slipping like this try one of the notched belts.
  3. Look straight down on the top of the engine. There are two long semi rectangular boxes tight at the top. Both nearly as long as the engine not including the gearbox. The one on the starboard side has a filler cap on it that has two "ears" so you can twist it off more easily. This one is for the coolant. The other box with more rounded ends and slightly domed is the rocker cover. That has another filler on it. It maybe black plastic or a domed metal thing. That is where the oil goes in. You can find a BMC 1.5 manual online and it is all but the same as a 1.8. If this is no help, post a photo because it is not rare to find engines misidentified.
  4. That is what I tried to say. More surveyor bullshine to justify their charge.
  5. If it's a poly V belt as BEngo suggest, then I can only think you need to clean the crankshaft and alternator pulleys. If it's an ordinary V belt you may have an incorrect pulley on the alternator and it could have been like that for years. You may have inadvertently been fitting the wrong profile belt. Get a new belt, twist it inside out and push it into the pulleys. Ensure the sides of the belt are a perfect match to the pulley, with both having the same angle. Ensure the belt sits well above the bottom of the pulley. Do you have any enhanced charging kit like an alternator controller or A to B?
  6. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  7. Ta - don't know how that happened, it was done on a calculator app and it now agrees with you.
  8. That is why my last paragraph referred to the oven, not the microwave, and said it was not a good idea unless they fitted a generator at around £10,000 1000W inverter will not do for the figures Nicknorman gave, even if you can run the two parts individually. Start looking for 2000 or 3000 watt ones.
  9. I would rather you say what gearbox you have or post a photo. You may find the suss one if you search the forum for "Vetus gearbox"
  10. Makes no sense. A hydraulic gearbox is not a hydraulic drive unless you have hydraulic thrusters or pumps. In my view, hydraulic gearboxes are the more reliable, but there is one hydraulic box maker that is a bit suspect. If it is a hydraulic bow thruster it is likely to be/cause fewer problems than an electric one. More info or photos would help identify what you have and make better comments.
  11. Automatic bilge pumps have en known to flatten batteries when they go wrong. As long as the stern gland has been properly adjusted and greased, then as long as you either live on the boat or visit every month/6 weeks you really don't need an automatic pump, but you will get water in the bilge. Even when a cockpit drain pipe through the uxter plate rusted through, the leaks did not come over the engine tray over a month - it probably would have got worse if I had not been regularly checking the bilge and finding the reason for the extra water. If you feel that you must have an auto pump, make sure you fit a three position switch so you can turn the auto part off if you need to.
  12. As a very good general rule, using battery provided electricity to create heat, and that includes cooking, is a bad idea on a boat and can all too easily result in perpetual battery problems. However, with modern engines with high output alternators a microwave (not a combi) might be doable with a bit of care because of the small amount of time they run for. As Bacchus implied, you need to double the cooking power (850W or whatever) to estimate the power consumed and then divide that figure by 10 to see how many amps it will draw from the battery, so: 850W cooking power = 1700W input power = 170 amps from the battery. Now, if you have a 150 amp alternator running fast enough while the microwave is in use, that leaves about 20 amps for the battery to supply. Maybe similar to showering with a water pump and shower pump running. Assume a 3 minute cooking time, and that gives 1 Ah of battery charge that is needed to replace what you took out. That should be no problem. (hope my maths is correct). Without the engine running we get 170 Amps x 3minutes / 60 minutes (to give Ah) = 25.5 Ah and that may well take a lot of recharging. its getting on for the consumption of a modern 12V fridge over 24 hours. That is very different battery and charging wise. The oven is different because you may be running that for maybe an hour or two, not a good idea. However fit a suitable generator, so no battery power is involved and then it is all easy, you might as well have and electric cooker as long as you can run it from the generator but that may well be another £10,000.
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  15. Not typically on indirect raw water cooled boats. Sea inlet, oil cooler(s), pump, heat exchanger, exhaust is the usual way and If Alan's had been done that way he would have overheated and possibly wrecked an impeller rather than flood the boat. However, that way has too many joints that if they leaked would simply suck air in and compromise the raw water flow, so I modified most of the fleet to be like Alan's with the coolers on the pressure side of the pump.
  16. I agree, if it were mine I would be looking for a disk of suitably thick steel drilled to take the screws that hold that broken plastic down and a suitable gasket - closed cell neoprene?
  17. That may be if the steerer is getting on for anti-social, You can't beat a cruiser stern for being sociable and a decent silencer, a stern pointing exhaust outlet and a bit of sound deadening makes all the difference to engine noise. I never found the rain a particular problem that standing in a hatch would solve.
  18. Agreed, even a 65 watt panel did that for me.
  19. I have always found it fairly easy to stop the boat with the cockpit close to one set of steps and had a bow line long enough to pick up from the roof at the stern end, step off o to the steps and walk to the lock side carrying both ropes - hence my saying make sure the lines are long enough - and flick he lines over the bollards. You may have to stop the engine before you step off so you can stay on the lock side to control the ropes. When you eventually get to Sandford and I think Hambledon put a full turn around the bollard, make sure the turn does not lock, because those locks fill at the sides and can push the boat away from the side with a fair bit of force.
  20. I would talk to Caversham Boat Services. They have always found me a temporary mooring behind their island and as long as you stay clear of their turnround days will probably allow you to move your boat to their "turn round" moorings on the Reading bank opposite their base for loading purposes. I think the Council will want money off you for mooring on Christchurch Meadows or by the Prison. All the Thames Promenade above Caversham brdge was full of no mooring signs.
  21. I doubt anyone can answer your last question because you don't specify the cloud cover, but expect and absolute maximum of 50% in high summer and all but zero % in winter. Assume no solar output Octoberish to Aprilish.
  22. As the regs require you to us a bow and stern line in locks and in October some will be unmanned, make sure your bow and stern lines are long enough and ideally get someone else aboard to help you. Otherwise, as long as you follow the no moving on yellow or red boards advice (check the EA Thames website) it there is little to worry bout going up stream. Always moor facing upstream and it's vital that when in the river itself you get the upstream, so front, rope off and semi-secure first. The stronger the flow the more vital this is. Many narrowboats have undersized skin tanks and when owners got on a large river with faster GRP boats they tend to run far faster than on canals and get overheating, so keep an eye open for this. If it happens, slow down and run the hot domestic water off (assuming a calorifer and not a gas water heater). Expect to pat around £10 average a night for mooring unless you can get on one of the EA 24 hour mooring sites or one owned by a council and they do not charge. I hope that your Reading/K&A mooring is organised because if you think you can just tie up to the bank it may not end well. For years, I helped send hundreds of novices out onto the Thames in hire boats and the only time there was an accident was when people moved on the red boards, keep a sensible non-alcoholic head on and you will be fine.
  23. You can see one oil pipe in one of the photos.
  24. They seem to be a very common way of doing the reduction on oil coolers, but the coolers I have seen have the ridge. More "value engineering" I fear or outsourcing to the cheapest supplier.
  25. Alan, Did you phone or VHF the RNLI direct, via the Coastguard or send a message on channel 8 or 16 (I think those are the relevant channel numbers). I am a bit surprised the coastguard did not put out an all stations call asking for assistance.
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