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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. I don't see why you need the pipes that run in parallel with the calorifier, it may even rob the calorifier of flow. Just move the vent and feed to the other side of the calorifier or even connect to the calorifier coil connections. With that arrangement there is a chance that the circulation through the calorifier may be compromised by the trim of the boat (bow up) but as long as the boiler is fairly close to the calorifier I expect it will work. That photo of pipework. On long copper runs that type of configuration can be used to allow for expansion by allowing the two parallel legs to bend slightly, but it looks to me as if it has been done to avoid bending the large pipes and the horizontal displacement is too small to allow a neat 2 elbow dog leg for the alignment.
  2. Agree about the lookout, but you would still see the steaming light but nto be able to see the stern light so the lit vessel is either at anchor or coming straight at you and within a few yards, especially in the case of a narrowboat.
  3. Definitely not and the masking effect of the cabin side or masking board on rigging is exactly what is required. Seeing white, red and green ahead says a ship is moving straight at you. Se a white and a red or a green and it is coming towards you but at an angle or running at right angle to you so is not a danger. Few, if any of the magnetic lamps I have seen seem to compliant as far as many narrowboats are concerned by reason of length of boat.
  4. Getting more antifreeze in is essential but on no account go above 50% or the coolant will not be able to carry as much heat away. Without antifreeze there is probably nothing to inhibit internal corrosion. Despite what others are likely to say for ENGINES (not CH systems) I will perfectly happily just pour the quantity of neat antifreeze into the engine and run it for a good while, while cruising is fine. The calorifier circuit provides a bypass, so eventually it will all be mixed. There is every chance the water pump has a bypass drilling as well.
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  6. Hope it works. If you have another spanner that you can put on the hexagon right against the calorifier body it will help you avoid stressing the coil or calorifier skin when trying to move the nut.
  7. May I point out that if you take the above quote it seems that you are asking forum members if any were willing to either hire or lend you their boat. Such a boat, in the vast majority of cases, will not be inspected, insured, or licensed for such activities if the owner gets a monetary advantage from such a deal. That is the first and main problem from what you have posted. Take that and add the phrase: So is it unreasonable to conclude that you are very likely not to have a regular wage and also seem to want a cheap deal? Anyone legitimately hiring boats long term would look at that and become have a concern that you may abandon the boat at lords knows where, and simply walk away, leaving them to pick up the pieces. I think the post warning our less experienced members hiring to you (based on what you have revealed) may be a very risky decision is valid. Furthermore, as you admit you don't have loads of money, it is valid to warn you that a legitimate company will probably demand the full hire fee in advance. They are also likely to charge a damage deposit that will further add to your initial outlay that may end up being several thousand pounds. To suddenly seem to take offence at advice based on what you published seems somewhat immature to me. Of course no one knows your financial position but based on what you said it may well not be very good. Advice was given accordingly. My money is on Greater London and of the begging on social media generation. Still it never hurts to ask, but probably not such a good idea to get miffed at genuine replies.
  8. Well done for finding it. It looks to me as if there are three potential points that could leak there. A BSP to compression adapter screwed into/onto the threaded part of the calorifier, what looks like a compression fitting to a stub of copper pipe, and a solder joint where the 15mm pipework is screwed into a reducer. I fear there might be another hidden solder joint but don't know. What I think is a compression joint with an olive might be a might be a flange type joint with a soft flt washer. I think you may do well to clean the area up and try to find exactly what bit is leaking. If it is from what looks like a compression fitting it would not hurt to try gently tightening the big nut but take care not to stress the calorifier skin by excess force. I am not sure that it is wise to have what looks like an unsecured calorifier connected by solid copper pipes. At the leat I would use suitable plastic or a length of hose. Either will go along way to ensure a moving calorifier or vibrations will not stress those joints or the calorifier itself.
  9. I disagree with that. There is a cardon shaft with two hooks joints between the rubber coupling and the engine. That will accept angular and radial misalignment. I don't have a data sheet for that particular coupling but most only allow for a degree of angular misalignment, with no radial. Despite what certain manufacturers claim the only sure way to deal with a degree of angular and radial misalignment is to use a coupling with two flexible elements such as that cardon shaft, the long Centaflex, or the Aquadrive type. What such a rubber coupling may do is help absorb any cyclic oscillations in the drive line, but the worse that would do on this particular setup is to possibly cause more vibration when underway.
  10. It was not long ago we had a longish discussion on this topic so have a search. FWIW we built a series of cruisers from hull and inner mouldings but made the cabin sides from thick plywood while the roof was formed from truck cant rails on top of the cabin side, transverse aluminium top hat sections bent to the curve and skinned with more ply self tapped into the top hat section. The ply in those days was better quality than the so-called marine ply you can more easily buy today. The countersunk screw holes and the joins in the ply sheets were filled with standard body filler but today they would have used epoxy filler. So we had a good one piece surface to work on. We then covered the roof with fibre glass roving sheets (not chopped strand mat) and built up many layers of epoxy two pot paint. This soaked the roving and stuck it to the wood and aluminium cant rails. Some 30 years later I met one on the GU and the owner told me he had no roof leaks. If the roof is tongue and groove I fear the movement may make this unsuitable.
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  14. I used Square D switches on all the hire fleet, in fact they were a part of the Godwin and a weird US water pump. My ex hire boat had one already fitted and I operated it at around 1 bar perfectly happily for years. Put a T into the pressure side of the pump somewhere convenient to accept the switch. They are two pole switches normally so you have the choice of using just one of the contact pairs or both in parallel. I cut the positive cable between the pump's own switch and motor and connect the pressure switch to that so the pum'ps own contacts are no longer in use.
  15. Or simply fit an external pressure switch like a square D and then use any pump of similar volume output.
  16. Sounds very much like you have the measure of it. Just do the test, note the level and only top up if required top that level. If that level is out of sight then an external expansion tank may help.
  17. Only as long the low charge rate is in response to well charged batteries and not alternator, battery or circuit faults.
  18. In that case it would not hurt Braunston marina to chip in, it is their access that causes the problem for the less sprightly. They could even sacrifice a few berths and reinstate the towpath,
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  21. On GRP and wooden boats possibly, as long as you can get it out from under the engine, on metal boats it is normally just part of the hull that contains any oil drips so pumping the actual bilge does not cause pollution. It may help it you wrap toilet paper t kitchen towel around the suspect leaks as long as you keep checking it as the temperature rises. In respect of this problem I am not concerned about the state of the small triangular bilge below the stern gland, although it could do with cleaning, but I know that when you are getting on a bit (sorry) that is not as easy as in years gone by. It is the fact that you seem to have suffered an overheat on the river that concerns me in respect of the correct coolant level, although that might be caused by an undersized skin tank. Especially if the problem goes away on canals.
  22. I trust you did notice the "both". I was almost sure that you would agree.
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  24. The lowest pipe just below the immersion heater is the DOMESTIC water cold inlet so that won't have anything to do with the cooling system. You do have a full width engine drip tray but, assuming the boat trims down by the stern, luckily it is clean enough to say a cooling leak is unlikely to be leaking into it and that includes from the small overflow hose. I agree there is some staining on the calorifier insulation but for the leak you describe it does not look dirty enough. If this is a long term thing I would expect to see antifreeze coloured stains on the pipe work and down the calorifier. Tomorrow morning I would top up and run while keeping a close eye on those coil connections, there should be two pairs of two, but I don't know which pair is for the engine. Also follow the pipes back to the engine looking at every joint.
  25. It was not that long ago that you said you could not find any signs of a leak, so what makes you think it might be the calorifier? A loss of coolant will NOT be a leak from the calorifier itself but may well be a leak on the pipes and hoses running between the engine and calorifier. Have you looked? Have you found such a leak or stains to suggest such a leak? The DOMESTIC water pump running can be an indication of a calorifier leak, but not a cooling system leak - and that included pipes between the engine and calorifier.
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