Tony Brooks

Is that not where the trailer braking system comes into the vehicle v trailer weight regs, but I suspect a Marland 20 on a trailer would only have the trailer equipped with overrun brakes - at the best.

I suspect that is very much dependant upon the formulation, and if it was that brittle it would flake off or craze around hull impacts rather than more or less just at the site of the impact. 12 ton of boat making a point impact is, I would have thought, likely to flex the panel to a significant extent.

I suspect that they employ enough people to keep them fully employed with breakdowns in summer and servicing in winter and then sub during bust times closer to base and at the far reaches of the system. I think they employed an engineer for the Thames (and probably Wey, south GU, and Lee system) who worked from home.

They certainly did have employed engineers when I was running courses for them, but also subbed some of the work, especially in areas further from their base.

My only negative was that a good bang and dent might damage the heater if it is that close to the skin.

So get a syphon pump for less than £10

This ^^^^^^^ Basically the pcb is causing LEDs to act as a filament bulb. How about a photo showing the wiring where it connects to the pcb so we can check the wiring colours against the diagram, or are you saying nothing is connected to it, or possibly only a white and a black cable.

What is known as a flank drive socket should work on a burred hexagon. Just measure across the flats to get the size.

If by rear bulkhead you mean the transom then I would not trust aluminium glued to the outside of the transom. I would use similar aluminium section inside the transom and bolted through above the waterline with a larger person standing on the expansion. If the boat uses an outboard be aware that any structure should not box exhaust fumes in when idling or at slow speed. The motor won't like that. At higher speeds the exhaust bubbles will be behind the boat when they surface.

Standard Bosch rotary pump, except only 3 cylinders, any competent diesel pump specialist should be able to fix it for you if needed. However, on mine I had a persistent leak from the fuel inlet banjo union. As it is on the top f the pump fuel was seeping out and the dripping off the bottom. I tried new copper washers, fibre washers, but I did not stop it until I used a par of Dowty washers on the banjo. If your leak turns out to be there make sure the mating faces o the pump body, banjo, and banjo bolt face are not burred, distorted or scored. If someone has used a wrong spanner or cocked the right one, the hexagon face can get burred.

I wonder if they are designed so they can't get any hotter than say 80C, or you are expected to use a cylinder stat.

I am not saying you are wrong because you have actual measurements, but wonder how your scope stored the values and if any sampling rate might hide very short duration current peaks. I have never had access to a very high sampling rate storage scope. Some years ago, so an old Danfoss 12V compressor, I had dealings with a boat that was virtually new which had fridge problems. The cable size looked a bit suspect, size wise, for the run length to me so having ruled out battery voltage, suggested it was likely to be a wiring size issue. This brought moans from a much advertised professional inland marine boat harness maker because he had "worked the size out" and as far as I can gather he used his own methods and not the recommended 1sq mm CCSA for each metre of the outward run and the same size for the return. He mentioned using 70 amps. Then Danfoss got involved and were adamant that it was undersized wiring causing the issues. I don't know how it was resolved, but suspect the low voltage cut out setting on the wander lead was reduced. That 70 amps is where I got the 30 times the running current from, but I have no idea if that figure was correct or not.

Which is where I think the OP got his 130W from, a misunderstanding of the label.

Not on a Bukh DV36 because they use two metal spiders with a rubber web thing between them. If by some miracle the rubber rind with blocks around the outer edge that fit between the spiders had broken apart and fallen out, I think it would make one hell of a clatter, especially at idle out of gear. The rubber thing on mine had the faces of the blocks glazed and gone really hard, but no noises from it. Image: On other engines that would be a very likely cause.

Do it the simple way, feed it from the ignition on terminal, probably daisy-chained to the + terminal on the gauges and warning lamps. You could use the IG lead on the alternator, but I suspect that may be a sense lead and a pulsing lift pump MIGHT (not will) affect that. The easiest way is to use a multi-meter set to ohms or preferably buzz. Look at the photo, one terminal is black and has never had a cable on it, so ignore that. Then there is another 10mm blade that shows scratches where the female part had been pushed over it. My GUESS is that this is likely to be the + input, but we can't be sure. The relay has a white wire on it (ign. controlled +) and I think a brown one hidden at the back of the photo. Brown = batery +, so that is all as I would expect, so we can now do some tests Connect one meter wire to the WHITE cable terminal on the relay (push a nail between the plastic cover and the actual terminal to get a good contact). Touch the other cable to all the terminals on the back of the switch. Only the one with the white wires should buzz or show almost zero ohms. Turn the switch to the ignition ON position and touch all the terminals. One of the large blades should beep or show zero ohms. Note which one and change the wire on the relay to that terminal. Turn the switch OFF Step around all the other switch terminals with cables on them and NONE should buzz. Now turn the switch on and step around the cables, only the ones with the white wires on should buzz. Turn the switch to the glow plug position and step around again, the extra one that buzzes is the glow plug terminal/wire. Turn the switch to start and step around again, the extra one that bizzes is the "energise starter solenoid" termial/wire. I don't think Beta have a stop position on their installation so, you now know which terminal does what. I would get a marker pen and mark up the switch. It is far quicker and easier to do that to read or write how. PS, if you had the diagram for the panel, rather than the engine, it would give you the info you need.

I did say I was suspicious of that 130 watts, but taking it as correct, plus the dead rough easy to work out rule of thumb that you divide 240V wattage by 1o to get the 12V battery draw via an inverter (which would assume an 80% inverter efficiency including the current to work itself) gives 13 amps. Another assumption of 30% duty cycle gives an 8 hour run per day that gives 8X13 = 104 Ah, so yes, an extra zero. I thought it looked unexpectedly high, but could not for the life of me see where the mistake was. It does seem to accord with your measured fridge figures to give the OP a rough consumption figure. To add to that, those of us with a garden can store excess seasonal produce for later use, and we know exactly what chemicals have been used on the crop - more that you can ever know from online suppliers. Hm, maybe if Ocado, but otherwise have you not seen the pickers picking orders off supermarkets shelves. I suspect an easy way of shifting short date stock at full price.

Extrapolating from 12V DC Danfoss compressors about 30+ times higher than the running current for a fraction of a second or two. I am suspicious of that 130W figure, mains fridges and freezers are usually shown as an annual kWh consumption. 130W at mains voltage equates to a tad over half an amp. Via an inverter assume it will draw about 13 amps from the battery which allows for an inefficient inverter. Assuming a 30% duty cycle that equates to about 1000 Ah per day (hope my maths is correct). What Bengo said.

Get your ear against the instrument panel to check it is not the charge/oil pressure/overheat buzzer sounding. If it is, the more usual cause is a faulty sender or possibly a loose alternator belt. If it is not that, I can't think what else it could be as long as you have enough oil in the gearbox. Also, possibly a dry thrust bearing or CV joints in the Aquadrive shaft coupling that Bukhs are often paired with. Make sure the clamp holding the shaft half coupling in place is tight and with no signs of it moving on the shaft - this is not likely, but worth checking. Any cans fallen off the uxter plate, so one is not touching the flywheel (for others - the Bukhs have an unenclosed flywheel at the front of the engine).

Thanks, that is indeed a six diode alternator. The terminal marked: IG needs a feed when the ignition is ON L is connected to the warning lamp P feeds pulses to a rev counter if you have one and the large stud in B+ and one way or another connects to the battery positive. As your alternator is like this the engine alternator wiring on the panel should be correct. As @jonathanA says, get hold of the wiring diagram. If you do change for a nine diode alternator the terminals will be: B+ to battery positive B-, if you have one, to battery negative or alternator case/engine block/starter negative D+ from waning lamp W pulsed feed to any tachometer. The domestic alternator wiring on the panel is likely to be set up for this, but the wiring harness may not be.

Well, I can see a terminal marked 50A which is a standard DIN code, but in this case I don't think your system uses it. If 50A is marked than perhaps with a bit of cleaning you will see the markings for the other terminals, e.g.30, 15, 50, 75 etc. As Nick says that relay is almost certainly redundant on a single alternator engine, and so will be the wiring unless it is needed to make it easier to connect your alternator. The PCB with the warning lamps is likely to contain diodes so one buzzer can service all warning lamps and if the lamps are LEDs or very low wattage it may also have parallel resistors on it. Beta seem to use the old British vehicle wiring colour codes in the main, so that gives a bit of a guide. In view of Nick saying he thinks your alternator might be a six diode machine I think you need to either send a photo of the back of the alternator showing the terminal identification or just tell us what the identifying characters are, then we can tell you which it is and tell you how to wire it up. If it is a different number of diode alternators to the one the panel was designed for it may be easier to simply run new wires to the alternator, but we will advise.